Amp and Sub Installation Help - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

atlang3lo · 08-15-2010, 09:14 AM

Okay guys and gals, i have a LS and i need some guidance on installing a amp and subs to the factory radio (LS Version). Attempting for the first time ever. So far i have 2 10in Kicker CVR 4ohm, ******** enclosure, 50 Sq Ft MegaMat, i plan to purchase a Kicker 750.1 amp and amp wire kit on the 1st. How do i install these things. Also do i need any extra equipment for this install?

Thanks for the help.

mrray13 · 08-15-2010, 12:48 PM

You are going to need a line out convertor, LOC, to tap into the rear speaker wires, and convert the hi level signal to low level. Those can be bought just about anywhere, from about $10 and up.

You are also going to need to find a 12v switched source to turn the amp on and off. There are signal sensing LOCs available that can do that for you, but they can be troublesome. Probably going to have to find a source up front, and run it to the rear.

After that, it's pretty simple. You'll run 12v constant from the battery to the amp, and a chassis ground from the car to the battery. You can ground from the battery to the amp if you are close enough, under 18" or so. You'll run a 12v switched source to the amp as well. From there, you'll tap into the rear speakers with the LOC and run RCA interconnects from it to the amp. Make sure you set the LOC gains, if it has them to about 1/2 or under, for now. Then it's as simple as wiring the subs up to the amp and setting it.

It really is that easy, but can take a bit of work. I forgot to mention, install the MegaMat before anything else,lol.

Also, I do believe there are a few tutorials around on installing everything. Just take your time, and if you have any questions, ask!!

atlang3lo · 08-15-2010, 02:17 PM

where do i find a 12v switch source?

cybercoaster · 08-15-2010, 02:41 PM

Mine is in the fuse box up front drivers side

atlang3lo · 08-16-2010, 02:49 AM

@cybercoaster So you have your running to fuse box on the driver side in your trunk? or by you steering wheel? Also how do you like that JBL amp? I was thinking about the JBL 750.1 if i don't get the Kicker ZX750.1.

cybercoaster · 08-16-2010, 09:12 AM

the remote turn on goes to the fuse box up front, the power comes of the battery in the trunk. It was a toss up between kicker and JBL and I have always been partial to JBL (thats what my home theater is) so I went with that. Its great.

The 2010 Sin · 08-16-2010, 10:42 AM

JBL ftw ;-)

mrray13 · 08-16-2010, 06:03 PM

While JBL is nice, I'd take Kicker everyday of the week. I'm not knocking JBL either, I've seen some awesome setups, but IME, Kicker is hard to beat in street beater setups, and have won more then their of both spl and sq championships.

In the end, as long as it's a quality product, one will be hard pressed to tell the difference sound wise in a blind test. So grab the name you like the best, make sure the install is top notch (that has the most effect on overall sound) and bang away!!

atlang3lo · 08-17-2010, 11:23 PM

well i pretty much decided on the Kicker Amp 10ZX750.1, What kind of amp kit you guys recommend? The amp uses a 4 gauge thats pretty much all i know. lol

mrray13 · 08-18-2010, 11:43 AM

Kicker has an awesome amp kit, top notch!! As does Audiopipe, Stinger, and even Memphis. Avoid Monster.

Look for strand count. The higher the better. Also easier to install. My personal favorite is Kicker Hyperflex. 4ga would be plenty, but it wouldn't hurt to go 2g either.

SS Drifter · 08-19-2010, 12:46 AM

[QUOTE=mrray13;2221981] You'll run 12v constant from the battery to the amp, and a chassis ground from the car to the battery. You can ground from the battery to the amp if you are close enough, under 18" or so.

Are you saying that it's better to run a chassis ground if the lead length is over 18" to battery? Is there a technical reason for this or just cable cost?

Funny, I just brought a Kicker power kit today and I was wondering why the negitive lead is so short.

BlueGrill · 08-19-2010, 12:56 AM

[QUOTE=SS Drifter;2235600]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrray13

You'll run 12v constant from the battery to the amp, and a chassis ground from the car to the battery. You can ground from the battery to the amp if you are close enough, under 18" or so.

Are you saying that it's better to run a chassis ground if the lead length is over 18" to battery? Is there a technical reason for this or just cable cost?

Funny, I just brought a Kicker power kit today and I was wondering why the negitive lead is so short.

Usually the amp neg pwr lead is connected to the metal of the car, which in most cars is tied to neg lead of the battery. So wherever yr amp is mounted, find a close baremetal place to screw down the neg lead circular lug, tight and solid baremetal contact.

SS Drifter · 08-19-2010, 12:26 PM

That makes sense. I suppose this would help avoid noise from ground loops. Thanks for the info.

mrray13 · 08-19-2010, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS Drifter

Are you saying that it's better to run a chassis ground if the lead length is over 18" to battery? Is there a technical reason for this or just cable cost?

Funny, I just brought a Kicker power kit today and I was wondering why the negitive lead is so short.

Definitely better to run the shortest ground possible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueGrill

Usually the amp neg pwr lead is connected to the metal of the car, which in most cars is tied to neg lead of the battery. So wherever yr amp is mounted, find a close baremetal place to screw down the neg lead circular lug, tight and solid baremetal contact.

Yeah, but that's usually done due to the fact that battery is in front, while the amps are in back. In this case, the battery is in back where the amp will be, and depending upon build, you can wire straight to the battery, and it would be the best place to do it if you can.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS Drifter

That makes sense. I suppose this would help avoid noise from ground loops. Thanks for the info.

That's a lot of it. There is more to it, but I honestly couldn't touch on most of the technical aspects.

08-15-2010, 09:14 AM	#1
atlang3lo Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro LS All Black Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kennesaw Posts: 210 View My Garage	Amp and Sub Installation Help Okay guys and gals, i have a LS and i need some guidance on installing a amp and subs to the factory radio (LS Version). Attempting for the first time ever. So far i have 2 10in Kicker CVR 4ohm, ******** enclosure, 50 Sq Ft MegaMat, i plan to purchase a Kicker 750.1 amp and amp wire kit on the 1st. How do i install these things. Also do i need any extra equipment for this install? Thanks for the help.

08-15-2010, 12:48 PM	#2
mrray13 Drives: 2010 1LT RS Rally Yellow Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: southern Illinois Posts: 2,973	You are going to need a line out convertor, LOC, to tap into the rear speaker wires, and convert the hi level signal to low level. Those can be bought just about anywhere, from about $10 and up. You are also going to need to find a 12v switched source to turn the amp on and off. There are signal sensing LOCs available that can do that for you, but they can be troublesome. Probably going to have to find a source up front, and run it to the rear. After that, it's pretty simple. You'll run 12v constant from the battery to the amp, and a chassis ground from the car to the battery. You can ground from the battery to the amp if you are close enough, under 18" or so. You'll run a 12v switched source to the amp as well. From there, you'll tap into the rear speakers with the LOC and run RCA interconnects from it to the amp. Make sure you set the LOC gains, if it has them to about 1/2 or under, for now. Then it's as simple as wiring the subs up to the amp and setting it. It really is that easy, but can take a bit of work. I forgot to mention, install the MegaMat before anything else,lol. Also, I do believe there are a few tutorials around on installing everything. Just take your time, and if you have any questions, ask!! __________________ *PacMan*

08-15-2010, 02:41 PM	#4
cybercoaster Drives: 2017 2SS 50th Anv, 1972 RS Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 1,588 View My Garage	Mine is in the fuse box up front drivers side Attached Images

08-16-2010, 10:42 AM	#7
The 2010 Sin Dont H8 Me Cuz U Aint Me Drives: 2016 SS Sedan, 2017 Explorer Sport Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 2,910	JBL ftw ;-) __________________

08-16-2010, 06:03 PM	#8
mrray13 Drives: 2010 1LT RS Rally Yellow Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: southern Illinois Posts: 2,973	While JBL is nice, I'd take Kicker everyday of the week. I'm not knocking JBL either, I've seen some awesome setups, but IME, Kicker is hard to beat in street beater setups, and have won more then their of both spl and sq championships. In the end, as long as it's a quality product, one will be hard pressed to tell the difference sound wise in a blind test. So grab the name you like the best, make sure the install is top notch (that has the most effect on overall sound) and bang away!! __________________ *PacMan*

08-15-2010, 02:17 PM	#3
atlang3lo Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro LS All Black Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kennesaw Posts: 210 View My Garage	where do i find a 12v switch source?

08-16-2010, 02:49 AM	#5
atlang3lo Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro LS All Black Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kennesaw Posts: 210 View My Garage	@cybercoaster So you have your running to fuse box on the driver side in your trunk? or by you steering wheel? Also how do you like that JBL amp? I was thinking about the JBL 750.1 if i don't get the Kicker ZX750.1.

08-16-2010, 09:12 AM	#6
cybercoaster Drives: 2017 2SS 50th Anv, 1972 RS Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Oklahoma City Posts: 1,588 View My Garage	the remote turn on goes to the fuse box up front, the power comes of the battery in the trunk. It was a toss up between kicker and JBL and I have always been partial to JBL (thats what my home theater is) so I went with that. Its great.

08-17-2010, 11:23 PM	#9
atlang3lo Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro LS All Black Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kennesaw Posts: 210 View My Garage	well i pretty much decided on the Kicker Amp 10ZX750.1, What kind of amp kit you guys recommend? The amp uses a 4 gauge thats pretty much all i know. lol

08-18-2010, 11:43 AM	#10
mrray13 Drives: 2010 1LT RS Rally Yellow Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: southern Illinois Posts: 2,973	Kicker has an awesome amp kit, top notch!! As does Audiopipe, Stinger, and even Memphis. Avoid Monster. Look for strand count. The higher the better. Also easier to install. My personal favorite is Kicker Hyperflex. 4ga would be plenty, but it wouldn't hurt to go 2g either. __________________ *PacMan*

08-19-2010, 12:46 AM	#11
SS Drifter Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: California Posts: 588	[QUOTE=mrray13;2221981] You'll run 12v constant from the battery to the amp, and a chassis ground from the car to the battery. You can ground from the battery to the amp if you are close enough, under 18" or so. Are you saying that it's better to run a chassis ground if the lead length is over 18" to battery? Is there a technical reason for this or just cable cost? Funny, I just brought a Kicker power kit today and I was wondering why the negitive lead is so short.

08-19-2010, 12:26 PM	#13
SS Drifter Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: California Posts: 588	That makes sense. I suppose this would help avoid noise from ground loops. Thanks for the info.