19x11 on the front. Offsets???

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Zombie killer

I am still running my original factory struts at 30k miles so yes the offsets do work. My black rims are F14 in the deep concave.

If you did not have the camber plates, how close to the strut would you be with the camber maxed out? I am thinking, without opening up the bolt hole on the strut (as I did) you may not reach -2.5*.

For an ET18 (ET23+ spacer) to work, we must:

-Install a camber plate and attain the desired camber primarily at the plate and not the spindle, still utilizing a small spacer
-Maintain about a 7mm strut clearance and let the camber fall as it may, again still utilizing a small spacer.

We could go thicker than 5mm on the spacer and that would help maintain clearance, while going more aggressive on camber. This would not be a problem for me as I have already installed longer wheel studs.

As i mentioned previous, the tire of choice may help or hurt the clearance. My OE Goodyear F1's have a generous wheel protector and that takes clearance awy. Another brand might really help the clearances.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by GLEE

This is with the 20s though right. That isnt bad at all. So with those specs on a 19x11 would we have any clearance issues at all on the inside?

I see that with et 13 it is 8mm closer than the stock ss wheel

I re-read the thread and missed your question here. Yes, with an ET13 front on the 19x11, the inside clearance of the tire to the strut is the same (on paper). The wheel is actually closer by 3mm (look at the backspacing differences), but on our Gen 5's the tire will hit before the wheel. We just have to be aware of the actual tire differences within the same size.

[GLEE]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Comparison of your OE tires/wheels to my OE 1LE:
Front
Attachment 867350
Rear
Attachment 867351

Now your OE to 305/30/19
Front- ET18 Just like ZombieKiller's (ET23 w/ 5mm spacer)
Attachment 867354

Rear ET23
Attachment 867355

Since we know that with max camber (via the spindle) on my 1LE, I cannot get any closer to the strut. A 19x11/30 with an effective offset of ET18 is even closer by about 5mm. This may also apply to you.

So we would need camber plates to run this fully rotatable setup

Thank you for all the great pics

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by GLEE

So we would need camber plates to run this fully rotatable setup

Thank you for all the great pics

I would say yes..... If you want to maximize your camber, reduce the tire poke, and have a safe strut to tire clearance, then camber plates help a bunch.

And I would say no....You may be able to do it without camber plates.....
-If you a willing to give up on max camber, but let the tire poke more you may be able to go without camber plates.
- OR Using ZombieKiller's ET23 front wheel, throw a 10mm spacer on instead of the 5mm as he did, your effective offset is ET13, Which is like the above picture compared to my OE 1LE front, which I know what my limits are (without camber plates), and they can be applied to you car.

Again, your tire selection plays a role in the final outcome.

Either way you will need a spacer.

It will take some playing around to find that perfect combo. If you want max camber, you'll need to figure out what spacer will get you your required clearance to the strut. Might as well plan on doing longer wheel studs so the spacer thickness is not an issue.

I'll be going down the same road, but I'm not going to do a square wheel set up. But I will have to use a spacer up front.

[Avalnch]

My 19x11 Forgeline GA3Rs are +17 front and +44 rear.

I worked with Forgeline for quite some time before coming up with the front offset. I have Pfadt coilovers and camber plates with shorter Eibach springs up front. I also do not run massive negative front camber cause I find that it severely reduces braking performance. -1.8 is the max negative camber I run. The tops of the tires just poke out beyond the fender and it looks aggressive.

Out back, you gotta be careful with the brake cable. I have to pull back mine every year or so, otherwise, they work themselves loose and rub on the rim. The brake cables have already abraded down to the metal sleeve on my car. I use that self-adhering tape to wrap them up.

[GLEE]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

My 19x20 Forgeline GA3Rs are +17 front and +44 rear.

I worked with Forgeline for quite some time before coming up with the front offset. I have Pfadt coilovers and camber plates with shorter Eibach springs up front. I also do not run massive negative front camber cause I find that it severely reduces braking performance. -1.8 is the max negative camber I run. The tops of the tires just poke out beyond the fender and it looks aggressive.

Out back, you gotta be careful with the brake cable. I have to pull back mine every year or so, otherwise, they work themselves loose and rub on the rim. The brake cables have already abraded down to the metal sleeve on my car. I use that self-adhering tape to wrap them up.

19x20? Do you mean 19x10. What size tires?

[GLEE]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I would say yes..... If you want to maximize your camber, reduce the tire poke, and have a safe strut to tire clearance, then camber plates help a bunch.

And I would say no....You may be able to do it without camber plates.....
-If you a willing to give up on max camber, but let the tire poke more you may be able to go without camber plates.
- OR Using ZombieKiller's ET23 front wheel, throw a 10mm spacer on instead of the 5mm as he did, your effective offset is ET13, Which is like the above picture compared to my OE 1LE front, which I know what my limits are (without camber plates), and they can be applied to you car.

Again, your tire selection plays a role in the final outcome.

Either way you will need a spacer.

It will take some playing around to find that perfect combo. If you want max camber, you'll need to figure out what spacer will get you your required clearance to the strut. Might as well plan on doing longer wheel studs so the spacer thickness is not an issue.

I'll be going down the same road, but I'm not going to do a square wheel set up. But I will have to use a spacer up front.

I really dont think your 1le pokes much from the pic. I would be okay with say -2 or -1.8 because i dont want to lose out too much on braking and i also would like to minimize the tire wear from the camber, so camber plates are of no need. It looks like im doing the 10mm or i could just get the wheels in the offest i need and rotate rubber not wheels too. Do you have more pics of the front? It is alittle misreading from the pics because they are 20x10 but we can get a good look

[Avalnch]

Originally Posted by GLEE

19x20? Do you mean 19x10. What size tires?

Whoops, I mean 19x11!

[GLEE]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

Whoops, I mean 19x11!

How much clearance do you have on the inside? Would you mind posting a pic of the tired poking out. Do you need the camber plates for -1.8 or would you be fine without them? Thank you for all the great info so far

[Avalnch]

Originally Posted by GLEE

How much clearance do you have on the inside? Would you mind posting a pic of the tired poking out. Do you need the camber plates for -1.8 or would you be fine without them? Thank you for all the great info so far

I can run my fingers between the wheel and the coilover body but my fingers will touch both the wheel and coilover. If I ran the longer length springs that came with the coilovers, the spring perches would likely hit the rim or wheel. Not sure if you can get -1.8° without the camber plates, probably close. But the camber plates will give you more caster also which is just as important.

I'll try to get some pics of how far the 19x11's stick out. Don't have my race tires on right now.

[GLEE]

Originally Posted by Avalnch

I can run my fingers between the wheel and the coilover body but my fingers will touch both the wheel and coilover. If I ran the longer length springs that came with the coilovers, the spring perches would likely hit the rim or wheel. Not sure if you can get -1.8° without the camber plates, probably close. But the camber plates will give you more caster also which is just as important.

I'll try to get some pics of how far the 19x11's stick out. Don't have my race tires on right now.

Thanks so much for all this information. Looking forward to pics!

[Bretts]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

We can use my 1LE wheels/tires for example.

I am running 2.4* of front camber (no camber plate) and have about 7mm of clearance from the tire to the strut. Justice Pete has always stated a #2 pencil as a good gauge for clearance. Knowing this we don't want to get any closer to the strut with the max camber. So we have to push all extra width out to the fender.

I use this page for wheel comparisons:
http://rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
It takes into account the role of the tire in any clearance issues. Some calculators do not do this. And remember some tires actually are wider for any given size, so that variable comes into play. But do not discount the wheel's role, as on the Gen 6's, the wheel may be the first object to cause an issue. So while this calculator is great, it is not a be all end all on dead nuts fitment.

A 19x11 with an offset of ET13 will get real close to matching the 1LE front tire to strut clearance, but sticks out about 20mm. 20mm will poke just a tiny bit with -2.4* camber. I've seen bits of info on custom 19x11's coming in at about 17 to 20 mm offsets. That's not to say they are not using other offsets, that is just what I have found listed here on the forums and elsewhere. Most if not all vendors who sell Forgelines will not divulge the offset info, and I understand that. They did the homework on proper offsets.

If we use a camber plate, we can get most of our camber via the plate and we rely less on the OE point of adjustment at the spindle/strut. This helps the tire to strut clearance because it forces us to pull the spindle (and tire)away from the strut. So we could get a wheel with an offset like 20mm, which on paper puts the tire 7mm closer to the strut, and only 13mm at the fender (less poke). This only works if the use of a camber plates creates atleast 7mm more clearance.

I've added longer studs in case I need to use small spacers for fine tuning. An offset of 20mm may work for me since I could use a 7mm spacer effectively making the wheel a 13mm offset. But If I reinstall my camber plates I could fine tune using thinner spacers if needed, causing the tire to sit into the wheelhouse better with less poke.

Take the above info and apply it to the rear. An offset on the rear of about 40mm on the 19x11 wheel/305 tire also pulls the wheel out by about 13mm at the fender (similar to the front offset of 20mm). Inner clearance is not as big a problem in the rear, but with the ET40 offset we are safe since we know the ZL1 uses a 305 tire on a 11" wide wheel with a 43 mm offset. Very similar.

If we had to use a 7mm spacer up front for good strut clearance, we would also use a 7mm spacer at the rear making the effective rear offset of 33mm, this would push the rear tire towards the fender lip. Compared to the OE 1LE rear wheel/tire combo, the poke is 20mm.


Realistically we want to match the front's track/tread width, which is the outside of the left tire measuring over to the outside of the right tire. This is not a huge deal but the front to rear balance could slightly change. I do not have any experience on how much difference of the front and rear matters.

very helpful just picked up some ccw 19x 10 and have ridetechs so its a tricky path to wider track rubber you used camber plates with the ridetechs which ones worked? thanks