About to pull the trigger on an SS4

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Thats going to be on badass car.



I’m thinking if I can’t find a Fluidampr then I’m going Powerbond.

You can always ask christianchevelle, I believe he runs the Fluidampr on his

[zz430camaro]

Cant find a Fluidampr? Why not? I just looked up the regular and underdrive and found them anywhere.

[Roader]

I was going to do fluidampr but tsp had a powerbond in stock and were local. Either way you’ll be fine

[zz430camaro]

I run a 25% UD Fluidampr and it seems to work fine. Its one of those mods that you dont really feel but its doing work.

[Pro Stock John]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Speak of the devil! Was just saying (Post#8) that you had success with the Powerbond, and thats one of the reasons I went that route. That and not being able to easily buy the Fluidampr.

Hehe I saw what you wrote, so I felt I had to post and validate the choice from a 4-5 year user perspective.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Order the SS4 kit friday. I found the Fluidampr on summit. Just talked with bo throttle body going out in a couple weeks. Still looking for a intake to send to GPI for the rod mod.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

You can always ask christianchevelle, I believe he runs the Fluidampr on his

Question about that SS4 is it more top end power or low end torque?

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Question about that SS4 is it more top end power or low end torque?

It still gives decent torque in the low-mid, but its definitely set up for top end performance, which is why I chose to go with 3.91s, since my stock rear end was 3.27. Then I have a 4k converter to go with it. Are you manual or auto? Tomorrow I'll send you a dyno sheet that you can check out and see what the powerband looks like. If you are auto, yours should look fairly similar but a bit higher numbers since you are doing the rod mod and having Bo White port your throttle body. I'll just say that it is both streetable and good on the track and will rev to 7300 making power all the way. Consider that there are bigger cams out there like Ryan's solid roller setup whose lift is in the .700s range but that is a profile that needs more frequent maintenance like setting the lash. In other words, why not go big or go home?

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

It still gives decent torque in the low-mid, but its definitely set up for top end performance, which is why I chose to go with 3.91s, since my stock rear end was 3.27. Then I have a 4k converter to go with it. Are you manual or auto? Tomorrow I'll send you a dyno sheet that you can check out and see what the powerband looks like. If you are auto, yours should look fairly similar but a bit higher numbers since you are doing the rod mod and having Bo White port your throttle body. I'll just say that it is both streetable and good on the track and will rev to 7300 making power all the way. Consider that there are bigger cams out there like Ryan's solid roller setup whose lift is in the .700s range but that is a profile that needs more frequent maintenance like setting the lash. In other words, why not go big or go home?

I'm manual thanks man that'll give me a lil more insight on this cam, i have a friend with a 392 charger that thinks his cat back and intake will be able to blow the doors off this cam lol

[Chris49066SS]

Ahhh, well then, I just now uploaded this video just for you, to shut that one down. This is a 1/4 mile run between me and another dude with a 392 Charger. He had a blower cam, full bolt ons, and forged internals (he's planning on going FI in the future), his ET was 12.1 so he lost pretty badly. Just some food for thought on the whole 392 Charger thing. They are really heavy cars that need all the help they can get

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Ahhh, well then, I just now uploaded this video just for you, to shut that one down. This is a 1/4 mile run between me and another dude with a 392 Charger. He had a blower cam, full bolt ons, and forged internals (he's planning on going FI in the future), his ET was 12.1 so he lost pretty badly. Just some food for thought on the whole 392 Charger thing. They are really heavy cars that need all the help they can get

Smh he never stood a chance. Your car is freaking fast. I hope I can at least get to your level with this cam.

[lazerlemonta]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

It still gives decent torque in the low-mid, but its definitely set up for top end performance, which is why I chose to go with 3.91s, since my stock rear end was 3.27. Then I have a 4k converter to go with it. Are you manual or auto? Tomorrow I'll send you a dyno sheet that you can check out and see what the powerband looks like. If you are auto, yours should look fairly similar but a bit higher numbers since you are doing the rod mod and having Bo White port your throttle body. I'll just say that it is both streetable and good on the track and will rev to 7300 making power all the way. Consider that there are bigger cams out there like Ryan's solid roller setup whose lift is in the .700s range but that is a profile that needs more frequent maintenance like setting the lash. In other words, why not go big or go home?

I made those curl up and suck their thumbs with my bolt on 1LE LOL

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

Smh he never stood a chance. Your car is freaking fast. I hope I can at least get to your level with this cam.

Shouldn't be too difficult. You'll need the right wheel/tire combo and suspension to get there though. Supporting mods are important. I'm definitely not the quickest out there in Bowling Green, but am definitely one of the loudest, lol.

Originally Posted by lazerlemonta

I made those curl up and suck their thumbs with my bolt on 1LE LOL

Haha, nice

[christianchevell]

Yes; I run the Fluidampr its directions say one Gate belt number and then a different measurement of length...go with the measurement of length..LOL its not the only aftermarket one to get the directions wrong on the belt size though!!!!!LOL Might be the power bond does too..LOL
The idle wont hurt the amps as your idle should go higher being cammed; a stick even more so as the fluidampr only under drives the alternator or stock pulley configuration they do not underdrive the a/c... I believe I got mine Fluidampr through Summit...……… use it for the harmful vibrations them or ATI...….. not just some chunk of steel with rubber..... to stop vibrations that does little...… even though your internally balanced...keeping it righteous and not wearing out cam bearings etc...helps with radical cams etc...… and the stock balancer is not its just a pulley...….. seen them break on here along with some of the cheaper SLP UD pulleys.....