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Old 03-16-2018, 04:38 PM   #1
Jiver11
 
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JPSS Castor Lock and Camber/Castor Bolts?

I'm slightly confused on the install for these two options.

I originally thought that the JPSS castor locks were utilized in the front and JPSS Black Magic camber bolts in the rear.

Now after some research I'm wondering if these applications are only made for the front? Specifically where the radius arm mounts.

If someone could give me a breakdown I would greatly appreciate it, couldn't really find an answer when I was researching. I am lowering car on coilovers, about 1.5" all around.
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Old 03-16-2018, 04:55 PM   #2
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caster locks are stand alone original bolt is reused get radius arm inserts to swap in at the same time you have it apart to grind out the slot
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:24 PM   #3
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Have the radius arm inserts. If using castor lock why would you need to grind the slot? I understand with the castor bolt but if reusing original bolt with castor lock I wouldn’t think I would have to grind the slot?
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Old 03-16-2018, 05:53 PM   #4
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Have the radius arm inserts. If using castor lock why would you need to grind the slot? I understand with the castor bolt but if reusing original bolt with castor lock I wouldn’t think I would have to grind the slot?
Locks don’t require grinding. Just drill the new bolt location and install (in the front)...

-Don
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:30 PM   #5
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Perfect thanks!
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Old 03-17-2018, 11:38 AM   #6
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So I got the slots made. The castor locks basically give you two static positions that you can use. I will probably take the castor bolts & camber bolt with me just in case I can’t get enough adjustment with the locks.

When grinding the slots I ran into an issue with my dremel and made one side slightly taller than anticipated. My radius arm can now move up and down (slightly) with the locks in place but not tightened down. Question I have is, when I torque the radius arm down, will those locks/bolts ever move on me under load? The play in the arm is probably a 1/4” at most.
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Old 04-08-2018, 11:34 PM   #7
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So I got the slots made. The castor locks basically give you two static positions that you can use. I will probably take the castor bolts & camber bolt with me just in case I can’t get enough adjustment with the locks.

When grinding the slots I ran into an issue with my dremel and made one side slightly taller than anticipated. My radius arm can now move up and down (slightly) with the locks in place but not tightened down. Question I have is, when I torque the radius arm down, will those locks/bolts ever move on me under load? The play in the arm is probably a 1/4” at most.

Yes. They will move when subjected with an abnormal amount of force on the axis of the free movement. Just like everything with slack in the suspension. Would I still run it? Yes. You could tack weld the lock plates in place if you are concerned with the movement. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes for an exhaust shop if they don't mind the liability.


Every S13 I've owned had the tension rod mounts settled fully back due to the repeated stress on the components. This is relative to the stock clearance around the hardware, maybe 1/16" at most. Either way, upon doing my first alignment to the cars I would always pull them forward and RE TORQUE to spec, and they would hold position until the cars hit an exceptionally nasty pot hole or a curb then they'd be back at the rear of the "slack" again. Basically, if you hit something hard enough to need or want an alignment inspection, the bolts will shift. I've aligned my personal cars too many times to count.

Now being that the slack is vertical and the stress on the radius rod is primarily horizontal, I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Tack weld the locks or run it and check after you hit something. You can also use marking paint pens to verify if it shifts.
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Old 04-09-2018, 10:09 PM   #8
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If I remember correctly JPSS Caster Locks are aluminum. Last I checked you won't be able to tack weld aluminum to steel.
What you can do is run a weld bead on the portion of the slot that is to large to reduce the size then carefully regrind to get proper size. That's how I fixed my screw up when I installed mine.
With the loads applied to the front suspension the arm will move. Over time the slot will get larger and the bolt will wear and things will only get worse.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:53 PM   #9
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I agree, I'd never run a suspension bolt with slop in it. Or else a heck of a lot of red loctite and insane torque values would be involved but not on something that saw a track. A hardened washer welded to a frame has been used in redneck repaired suspensions though. A simple workaround for aluminum to steel welding that would never work. You can also weld and redrill the frame when a welder knows what he's doing and doesn't burn a hole through what he's doing as he fills it in.
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Old 04-12-2018, 06:37 AM   #10
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1/4 inch is a fair bit I would take slack out by pushing up, then get a piece of keystock 5/16"?the length of plate,might do both sides for continuity place against and parrallel to the plates and get it welded as a bottom fence
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Old 04-14-2018, 11:04 AM   #11
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to take a look at it this week and see if the castor plates have shifted at all. I torqued the bolt to the proper specs but I had a feeling under normal loading of the car that the plates and bolt could potentially shift vertical. If so, we will look at doing some welding to fix the issue.
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