Pedders EP1200

[George-CZ]

I'm going to strengthen the rear axle mounting with Pedders bushings. I've read some procedures and I want to make sure I know what I'm doing.

So I pick up the car and support it in the back.
The jacks support subframe and diferencial.
I disconnect the shock absorbers from the arms and disconnect the stabilizer.
Then I release the subframe, remove the caps, and lower.
I put the inserts on and put subframe back on car.

That's all? Or did I forget something?

[gtstorey]

brake lines, muffler and driveshaft, emergency brake cable if removing subframe completely

[KillboyPowerhead]

If you're lowering the subframe just enough to fit the inserts (a few inches) you don't need to remove brake lines or the driveshaft; for exhaust you just need to pull out the mounts from the hangers at the mufflers and possibly the next ones further up (WD40 works great). There's also a rectangular brace about half way down the car which may need to be removed.

Removing those caps on the bottom of the subframe bushings is much easier said than done. An air hammer works great if you have one... Otherwise maybe a puller if you can fit one (can't remember how the factory bushings look exactly), like what you'd use for the crankshaft balancer. I did the solid bushings so I didn't need to take out/reuse the caps.

Subframe mount bolts are torqued to 165 ft/lbs. Loctite wouldn't be a bad idea.

When putting the shocks back on the lower control arms, jack up the arms so that they're at normal ride height before fully tightening (like you would when replacing any other suspension arm/bushing) so as to "time" the bushing properly. To know the ride height simply measure from the centre cap of the wheel to the bottom of the fender when the car's on the ground.

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

brake lines, muffler and driveshaft, emergency brake cable if removing subframe completely

I only need about 2-3 inches down.
I'll just put the inserts in the existing bushing.

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by KillboyPowerhead

If you're lowering the subframe just enough to fit the inserts (a few inches) you don't need to remove brake lines or the driveshaft; for exhaust you just need to pull out the mounts from the hangers at the mufflers and possibly the next ones further up (WD40 works great). There's also a rectangular brace about half way down the car which may need to be removed.

Removing those caps on the bottom of the subframe bushings is much easier said than done. An air hammer works great if you have one... Otherwise maybe a puller if you can fit one (can't remember how the factory bushings look exactly), like what you'd use for the crankshaft balancer. I did the solid bushings so I didn't need to take out/reuse the caps.

Subframe mount bolts are torqued to 165 ft/lbs. Loctite wouldn't be a bad idea.

When putting the shocks back on the lower control arms, jack up the arms so that they're at normal ride height before fully tightening (like you would when replacing any other suspension arm/bushing) so as to "time" the bushing properly. To know the ride height simply measure from the centre cap of the wheel to the bottom of the fender when the car's on the ground.

That's exactly what I needed to know
I have an air hammer. I also saw how it is done.
I think this part of the work will not be a problem.



Thank you

[bayarea408]

i went from stock to those pedder inserts and now pegasus solid mounts. The inserts were noticeable and worked well for a few years. I added turbo and the back end once again became a area of concern. If you have plans to add alot more power i recommend go solid now. There isnt any added noise vibration just way more secure.

[George-CZ]

Originally Posted by bayarea408

i went from stock to those pedder inserts and now pegasus solid mounts. The inserts were noticeable and worked well for a few years. I added turbo and the back end once again became a area of concern. If you have plans to add alot more power i recommend go solid now. There isnt any added noise vibration just way more secure.

I am aware of all the variables associated with this step.

I read that these insoles are suitable for up to 500 horsepower.
I estimate I have about 440 on my wheels.
I do not intend to go higher with performance. The target of my other modifications will be the chassis. Not performance.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Awesome stuff my friend!! Nice mod. I went solid with the Pegasus mounts, and a 1pc driveshaft and man is she TIGHT!!

[George-CZ]

I'm done.

Thanks to KillboyPowerhead for help

I prepared everything, studied it beforehand and it went relatively smoothly.
The biggest problem is probably the caps.

The best part is that I bought a set of air tools a few years ago.
I unpacked it for the first time yesterday, and of course the air hammer didn't work





















This probably pissed me off the most ...

[George-CZ]

To conclude this story, I was in geometry and the difference was so small that I dare say that no new adjustment is needed after installation.