fix your 5th bow for $200 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Angie11 · 04-23-2015, 09:41 PM

Ok guys, if you have hand tools and any mechanical skill you can do this for $200 and 2-3 hours of time. You DO NOT have to remove the top. I didn't take pictures but its pretty straight forward. I will spell it out and if anyone has questions Id be happy to answer them.

You will need to buy the 5th bow assembly because good ol GM wont just sell you the parts you need. You get the aluminum 5th bow with the 2 metal brackets bolted on each end, these are the parts you need. with tax $200

First remove the body trim around the deck lid, the third brake light can be removed by gently prying it up, its held on by 4 push in pins. Then the 2 surround pieces can be removed, open the roof to get access to 12 10mm nuts, you need to push back a bit on the waterbag to get the side ones but they are not hard to remove. once nuts are off remove 8 screws in back and gently lift up the pieces and set them aside.

Now with the top half way open, basically straight up, use a
flat blade screwdriver and where the top cloth is inserted in the weatherstrip that goes over the rear side window, put screwdriver in space and twist to pry out the plastic tab that holds it in. pull it out to about 2 inches from the top of that area. Now pull up on the weather strip that is along the 5th bow where it is suppoed to seal against the trim you removed, then pull the top cloth out of grove, again about 5-6 inches, you can see where the waterbag is held in the inside of 5th bow channel, pry it out about 5 inches back.

Now you can see in and see the brackets that you need to replace, look over your new part and it is obvious. There are clips that are on the ends of the pin that need to be removed. Now it takes a bit of pulling but pull the pins out of hole so you get the 5th bow free of the mechanism. Now you can lift it up enough to get a wrench in there to remove the 2 bolts. There is a metal bar inserted in the aluminum end that the bolts thread into, be careful so it dosent slide back into the bow.

Remove the new brackets from your new part

Now you have the brackets free from the old bow, drill out the rivet that holds the strap and stretch cord. and rivet it back on to the new bracket.

Carefully bolt the new brackets to the bow. On mine I had to adjust it once, the brackets have oblong holes so I put it right in the middle but top was to tight so I had to slide brackets as far back as I could and it was perfect.

Once you have the brackets bolted back on and installed back into holes in mechanism just reverse steps and your in business.

This might sound complicated but its very straight forward. Sounds like lots of guys have taken their cars to shops and spent a lot, or been without their car for a long time. If your 5th bow has failed and your on the fence on what to do, trust me, if you have basic skills you can do this. The top looks great now!!

Hope this might be helpful to someone

OrangeVert · 04-24-2015, 03:52 AM

Angie11, thanks for sharing.

Would you happen know where I can find general top adjustment procedure steps? I'm getting outside noise in the cabin, and am sure a top adjustment is needed.

Chevy_cowboy · 04-24-2015, 05:43 AM

Nice instructions, do you have Part numbers for the upgraded parts?

I'll be doing this myself too if issues ever come up, far too many stories on the forums of dealers making top issues worse instead of better, no way I'd let them work on it.

Angie11 · 04-24-2015, 07:42 AM

22936377

Shazbatt79 · 04-25-2015, 11:46 AM

Americans don't read instructions, a YouTube video would be awesome!

Angie11 · 04-25-2015, 07:17 PM

Orange vert, there seems to be little to no adjustments. A few bump stops are threaded but thats about it. Mine is WAY quieter inside now! You could try on the back decklid there are two bump stops that can be adjusted to let the seal come up tighter......mine were very rusted but some WD-40 and patience working it got them turning again. Worth a try

ToddB · 04-25-2015, 09:18 PM

Ya I think they only beefed up the ends of the fifth bow so this should work. When I did mine my dealer covered it under warranty for the parts and I did it my self as they had no experience. They gave me the brackets and the entire aluminum fifth bow all as one piece. I did not know until I took mine apart to find out only the brackets wear bent. No way you could remove the whole fifth bow without removing the top.I had to return the old parts to the dealer. It makes it a lot easier just changing the brackets. Mine cost me nothing. Lol

OrangeVert · 04-26-2015, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Angie11

Orange vert, there seems to be little to no adjustments. A few bump stops are threaded but thats about it. Mine is WAY quieter inside now! You could try on the back decklid there are two bump stops that can be adjusted to let the seal come up tighter......mine were very rusted but some WD-40 and patience working it got them turning again. Worth a try

Thanks, Angie11. I think we're finally going to hit 60F sustained next week, so will check that out.

hworth18 · 04-27-2015, 06:25 AM

This is great news!! Thanks for figuring it out although I am with Shazbatt that a how to vid or pictures really would've helped us understand what you're looking at. Just a suggestion for next time.

Congrats and Good job!!!

DanielW · 02-27-2016, 10:32 PM

Will be doing this tomorrow.

DanielW · 02-28-2016, 01:41 PM

Finished a little while ago. Not too hard. Will be posting a new thread expanding on instructions and showing pictures. Might take a couple of days to get all the pictures set up and make sure I give the best and easiest to understand info I can.

SSZL560 · 02-28-2016, 04:38 PM

Have a question maybe dumb question or asked before so early apology.

I purchased my 2012 used, from a high end classic car seller who sold to me on consignment so I have not had contact with the owner. He was the original owner and only put 2300 miles on the car this car still smells and looks brand new. My top looks ok but a 9/2011 build date, is there anyway to tell if the problem has been taken care of by examining the top? IOW is there way to tell if the parts have been replaced by looking at them? Not so concerned about the water bag leaking it will never be driven in weather but the wearing of the canvas worries more.

Sorry also wondering if it has been confirmed Angie11 fix has solved the problem looks like this was an old post from 4/2015?

Thanks

OrangeVert · 02-28-2016, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanielW

Finished a little while ago. Not too hard. Will be posting a new thread expanding on instructions and showing pictures. Might take a couple of days to get all the pictures set up and make sure I give the best and easiest to understand info I can.

Thanks, Daniel - much appreciated if you can please do that!

c-57d · 03-11-2016, 08:38 AM

Thank You (OP and everyone who contributed in this thread).
I have a 2014 but always wondered if there was an easier way to fix the early tops.
Thanks again,
-s

04-23-2015, 09:41 PM	#1
Angie11 Drives: 2011 ss rs convertable Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: WI Posts: 179	fix your 5th bow for $200 Ok guys, if you have hand tools and any mechanical skill you can do this for $200 and 2-3 hours of time. You DO NOT have to remove the top. I didn't take pictures but its pretty straight forward. I will spell it out and if anyone has questions Id be happy to answer them. You will need to buy the 5th bow assembly because good ol GM wont just sell you the parts you need. You get the aluminum 5th bow with the 2 metal brackets bolted on each end, these are the parts you need. with tax $200 First remove the body trim around the deck lid, the third brake light can be removed by gently prying it up, its held on by 4 push in pins. Then the 2 surround pieces can be removed, open the roof to get access to 12 10mm nuts, you need to push back a bit on the waterbag to get the side ones but they are not hard to remove. once nuts are off remove 8 screws in back and gently lift up the pieces and set them aside. Now with the top half way open, basically straight up, use a flat blade screwdriver and where the top cloth is inserted in the weatherstrip that goes over the rear side window, put screwdriver in space and twist to pry out the plastic tab that holds it in. pull it out to about 2 inches from the top of that area. Now pull up on the weather strip that is along the 5th bow where it is suppoed to seal against the trim you removed, then pull the top cloth out of grove, again about 5-6 inches, you can see where the waterbag is held in the inside of 5th bow channel, pry it out about 5 inches back. Now you can see in and see the brackets that you need to replace, look over your new part and it is obvious. There are clips that are on the ends of the pin that need to be removed. Now it takes a bit of pulling but pull the pins out of hole so you get the 5th bow free of the mechanism. Now you can lift it up enough to get a wrench in there to remove the 2 bolts. There is a metal bar inserted in the aluminum end that the bolts thread into, be careful so it dosent slide back into the bow. Remove the new brackets from your new part Now you have the brackets free from the old bow, drill out the rivet that holds the strap and stretch cord. and rivet it back on to the new bracket. Carefully bolt the new brackets to the bow. On mine I had to adjust it once, the brackets have oblong holes so I put it right in the middle but top was to tight so I had to slide brackets as far back as I could and it was perfect. Once you have the brackets bolted back on and installed back into holes in mechanism just reverse steps and your in business. This might sound complicated but its very straight forward. Sounds like lots of guys have taken their cars to shops and spent a lot, or been without their car for a long time. If your 5th bow has failed and your on the fence on what to do, trust me, if you have basic skills you can do this. The top looks great now!! Hope this might be helpful to someone

04-24-2015, 03:52 AM	#2
OrangeVert "Catharine" Drives: '11 2SS/RS LS-3 IOM/IO vert Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Southern NH Posts: 2,132	Angie11, thanks for sharing. Would you happen know where I can find general top adjustment procedure steps? I'm getting outside noise in the cabin, and am sure a top adjustment is needed. __________________

04-24-2015, 05:43 AM	#3
Chevy_cowboy Drives: 2011 IOM 2SS/RS M6 Convertible Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Southern Illinois Posts: 1,287 View My Garage	Nice instructions, do you have Part numbers for the upgraded parts? I'll be doing this myself too if issues ever come up, far too many stories on the forums of dealers making top issues worse instead of better, no way I'd let them work on it. __________________

04-27-2015, 06:25 AM	#9
hworth18 Jus' Cruzin Drives: 2017 Camaro 1SS Krypton Green Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Northeast Oklahoma Posts: 1,108 View My Garage	This is great news!! Thanks for figuring it out although I am with Shazbatt that a how to vid or pictures really would've helped us understand what you're looking at. Just a suggestion for next time. Congrats and Good job!!! __________________ “The moment you think you know what’s going on in a women’s head, is the moment your goose is well and truly cooked” -Howard Stark

02-28-2016, 04:38 PM	#12
SSZL560 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS SLPZL560 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Chicago Burbs Posts: 19	Have a question maybe dumb question or asked before so early apology. I purchased my 2012 used, from a high end classic car seller who sold to me on consignment so I have not had contact with the owner. He was the original owner and only put 2300 miles on the car this car still smells and looks brand new. My top looks ok but a 9/2011 build date, is there anyway to tell if the problem has been taken care of by examining the top? IOW is there way to tell if the parts have been replaced by looking at them? Not so concerned about the water bag leaking it will never be driven in weather but the wearing of the canvas worries more. Sorry also wondering if it has been confirmed Angie11 fix has solved the problem looks like this was an old post from 4/2015? Thanks __________________ 2012 Camaro Convertible SS2 SLP ZL560 1 of 1 Silver Ice / Black Interior / Supercharged 560 HP / Auto/ Hurst Shifter / Brembos / SLP Springs / Loudmouth II/ Lexani 22 inch / P Zero Nero 265ZR30-22 and 315ZR25-22. and a bunch of other stuff

04-24-2015, 07:42 AM	#4
Angie11 Drives: 2011 ss rs convertable Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: WI Posts: 179	22936377

04-25-2015, 11:46 AM	#5
Shazbatt79 Drives: 2012 2SS/RS Vert Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 54	Americans don't read instructions, a YouTube video would be awesome!

04-25-2015, 07:17 PM	#6
Angie11 Drives: 2011 ss rs convertable Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: WI Posts: 179	Orange vert, there seems to be little to no adjustments. A few bump stops are threaded but thats about it. Mine is WAY quieter inside now! You could try on the back decklid there are two bump stops that can be adjusted to let the seal come up tighter......mine were very rusted but some WD-40 and patience working it got them turning again. Worth a try

04-25-2015, 09:18 PM	#7
ToddB Drives: 2011 2SS Convertible Supercharged Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: WI Cert Welder Navy NSSN Posts: 1,157	Ya I think they only beefed up the ends of the fifth bow so this should work. When I did mine my dealer covered it under warranty for the parts and I did it my self as they had no experience. They gave me the brackets and the entire aluminum fifth bow all as one piece. I did not know until I took mine apart to find out only the brackets wear bent. No way you could remove the whole fifth bow without removing the top.I had to return the old parts to the dealer. It makes it a lot easier just changing the brackets. Mine cost me nothing. Lol

02-27-2016, 10:32 PM	#10
DanielW Drives: 2011 SS/RS convertible Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Bryant, al Posts: 60	Will be doing this tomorrow.

02-28-2016, 01:41 PM	#11
DanielW Drives: 2011 SS/RS convertible Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Bryant, al Posts: 60	Finished a little while ago. Not too hard. Will be posting a new thread expanding on instructions and showing pictures. Might take a couple of days to get all the pictures set up and make sure I give the best and easiest to understand info I can.

03-11-2016, 08:38 AM	#14
c-57d Drives: 14 2SS/RS Triple Black Ragtop LS3 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: California Bay Area 95008 Posts: 305 View My Garage	Thank You (OP and everyone who contributed in this thread). I have a 2014 but always wondered if there was an easier way to fix the early tops. Thanks again, -s __________________ Come see the violence inherent in the sysadmin.