Do you spin?

[Kylejames83]

I have a 2011 l99 SS with headers, off road pipe, x pipe, flowmasters and cold air intake with a tune. The only way my tires will even think about spinning is if its power braked. Is that the same case for you guys? Ive tried all traction options, i know no spin means a win, but seems like take off should be quicker.

[GVA 45TH 2SS]

Maybe AFM is affecting you

[Reaper85]

I have no problem breaking the tires loose, and I'm basically stock.

[Kylejames83]

Afm is deleted

[G701LE]

Probably in your tune. "Some" feel the need to limit your power so you DON"T spin....

[Welker2]

Originally Posted by Reaper85

I have no problem breaking the tires loose, and I'm basically stock.

Same here, basically stock as well (CAI & Axel back exhaust only).

[gen5dewy]

Have you tried holding down the TC button for like 8 seconds. That turns TC and SC off completely I believe

[InFiD3ViL]

I spin like crazy. Using tapshift I will spin partly through 2nd as well. I asked my tuner to remove as much torque management as possible.

My tires have about 60% tread life left.

Stock the thing would barely spin at all, unless power braked.

[Kylejames83]

Ive done the long push, the fuse pull, the higher octane. Tuner asked me what gears i have, but they are the factory 3.25 that all l99 have. Its a low mile car with no known mechanical issues. Its frustrating.

[BAD DAB]

I just had Headers, HF cats and a tune by Jannetty Racing and I have no problem breaking them loose.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Kylejames83

Ive done the long push, the fuse pull, the higher octane. Tuner asked me what gears i have, but they are the factory 3.25 that all l99 have. Its a low mile car with no known mechanical issues. Its frustrating.

Are you running super meaty or sticky tires?

First thing I would do is ask your tuner how he handled the Torque Management.

Probably way off base here, but do you know if you have a weak or strong MAF? Any single letter MAF is "weak" and any MAF that features a letter followed by a number, mine is 'K9', is a strong one. But chances are you would have other obvious issues as well.

This is very unlikely unless you have some of the other symptoms listed in the following thread, but at least it's worth a check.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291436

[christianchevell]

With just headers a cold air intake and tune your looking at best cases 50 hp and in your tune the torque management especially with a automatic should be dialed way back, but you will find the excellent grip and delayed response of the throttle do make for a car that does not want to burn rubber. In your case I would suggest if you do not want to go internal and do a cam and converter to get a throttle controller if you want and play with it; it will give a more instant response and break the tires free most likely easily more for you. I am stroked, forged and ported and cammed and flowed so theres quite a difference with more torque down low cammed and I have to not burn rubber on the other end of the spectrum with like 400 ft lbs at idle sort of rwtq....
'I do not use or condone the use of them but it is a fun option many have explored with good and mixed results if it does not work well for occasional cars and has to be recalibrated too much causing a CEL check engine light...

For most on here they have used what is in many threads the Vitesse throttle controller its similar to a sprint booster taking out the built in delay in the pedal assembly /throttle via drive by wire and its more cable like results can make the delay gone so you can break free as the car is designed to keep traction with the systems, traction control and limited slip rear end in conjunction with the torque management and if in trouble stabillitrac. The thing is the pedal assembly is a potentiometer resisting the flow of electricity which on purpose slows the throttle from opening suddenly so you cannot loose traction which is counter to the car keeping traction its designed to be in control of . A throttle controller simply jumps around the stock potentiometer and effectively cuts it out of the loop and give with its menu options different levels of response.

Anyway with a limited build I would be in the club of people most likely with a throttle controller to set for fun, but Being built its a case of the opposite, being able to basically burn rubber shifting between even higher gears and not needing fast response as far as the dramatic opening of the throttle....its unwanted for a cammed built engine car as its OK, but if your not needing it fewer do it or even you can occasionally find them for sale on here .... And would wonder what the settings are on the tune as of course dyno tuning is always preferred for power production and custom settings, and hopefully the trans is tuned well. With a stock l99 you of course are at a disadvantage to a clutch driven stick that can be shifted at will and more hp, unless your tap shifting to make power to the ground at the precise ranges you want your dependent on the shifting and tune of the trans and what is available with your given gear set which could be greatly improved for drastic results also allowing you to more easily get the tires to break loose.

Throttle controller looks Chinese like some I saw ,....$200 range, rear gears and install...$1500 max at dealer range sort of money wise.... A couple ideas that surely are loved on here by automatics and manual clutch trans alike... Good Luck

[KansasSS]

I had the same problem as you in my 2011 L99 also. I would just spin when getting on it from a stop light but was b/c of the stock P zeros were getting worn. Then I replaced them with Toyo Proxies T4's and the problem was solved no more wheel spin.

[InFiD3ViL]

Christian brought up a good point about the throttle controller.

I think my Vitesse TC really helps if you are looking for endless wheel spin. The great part about it, when you are done roasting tires you can simply dial it back to a lower setting to save some rubber.