10-21-2017, 04:06 PM | #1 |
More then meets the eye!
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Any whippleinstall tip?
Just ordered my whipple supercharger, and cam kits from Jannetty racing. Ted, and Kris was a big help, said I can call with anytime with questions I have... Just wanted to see form those that did their own installs, if you have any tip for me. I have back problems so it not going to be a fast build. it's my first time getting into a ls motor, I've built the older 327cid, 350cid before. I've been watching as much youtube videos as possible. thanks in advance. My car has full BMR suspension work, L/T headers, Hi flow cat, 3" exhaust, 4.10 rear gears, MGW shifter, fluidamr harmonic balancer, under driver, will replacing the pulley with a stock size pulley. can't wait, after being unable to do much for the last year.
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2010 2SS/RS, M6, OBX 7/8" l/t headers, with high flow cats, MBRP full 3" exhaust, Whipple supercharger, 3.875 pulley, ID-1050X 1260CC injectors, JRE rough idle street blower cam kit, ZL1 fp, ZL1 fpcm, ZR1 3 bar map sensor, cold air intake, Richman 4.10 gears, BMR toe rods, trailing arms, f/r sway bars, f/r sway bar end links, BMR end link brackets, full BMR poly bushing including solid rear cradle bushings, BMR frame connectors and tunnel brace, f/r Hurst swaybar bushing brackets, Fluidamper, MGR shifter, and tune by Jannetty Racing.
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10-21-2017, 10:26 PM | #2 |
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The LS motors are easy to work on, in some aspects, even easier than the old school iron. As for tips with the Whipple install: It is straight forward with excellent installation instructions. You will definitely want to enlist the help of a buddy when it is time to set the supercharger on to the intake manifold. It can be done by one person, but you mentioned a bad back, so I'd grab a buddy.
Take your time, follow the instructions, and you will have ZERO issues! You're going to love the Whipple!! -Scott |
10-22-2017, 06:22 AM | #3 | |
More then meets the eye!
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Quote:
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2010 2SS/RS, M6, OBX 7/8" l/t headers, with high flow cats, MBRP full 3" exhaust, Whipple supercharger, 3.875 pulley, ID-1050X 1260CC injectors, JRE rough idle street blower cam kit, ZL1 fp, ZL1 fpcm, ZR1 3 bar map sensor, cold air intake, Richman 4.10 gears, BMR toe rods, trailing arms, f/r sway bars, f/r sway bar end links, BMR end link brackets, full BMR poly bushing including solid rear cradle bushings, BMR frame connectors and tunnel brace, f/r Hurst swaybar bushing brackets, Fluidamper, MGR shifter, and tune by Jannetty Racing.
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10-22-2017, 01:14 PM | #4 |
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THe oil pump bolt is a pain. I have had good luck with the following method, which works for both removing the bolt and re-installing it, just reverse the steps.
Supplies needed: - old phone cord, CAT 5 cable, etc. - Forceps or small pair of needle nose pliers - 10mm open end/ box end wrench - Patience Installation: 1. Get a piece of old phone cable, CAT5, etc. and separate the individual wires from the sheathing, cut to about a 12" length. 2. Utilizing a single conductor from the bundle, bend it into a "U" shape. 3. Place the bolt in the "U" bend, witht he wire just under the head of the bolt. 4. Now twist the wire, 3-4 times, snugly around the bolt. 5. Utilizing the free ends of the wire, fish the bolt through the pick-up tube mounting flange and into the bolt boss of the oil pump. 6. Take the forceps/needle nose pliers and gently push on the head of the bolt to "seat" it into the bolt boss. 7. Now, utilizing the wire that is twisted around the bolt and the forceps/needle nose pliers, you can "ratchet" the bolt to get it started. When you are moving the wire CCW (tightening), you should only apply enough pressure from the forceps to keep the bolt from "falling". When you are moving the wire CW (loosening), press firmly on the bolt head to allow the wire to move without spinning the bolt. I wish I had made a video of when I did this (twice within a week) and thrown it up on youtube, as it would it make it much easier to understand. Hope this helps! -Scott |
10-23-2017, 03:00 AM | #5 |
Angewendet Ingenieur
Drives: 14 Camaro ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 401
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Great selection! the supercharger is very flexible and has a wide variety of pulleys options available which can accommodate future upgrades. Depending on your use you may want to consider an upgrade to the bypass valve which you can discuss with JRE. Not sure what Air Cleaner kit you have but CAI will take a different tube. I also upgraded my pulley drive to 8 rib or a 10 is available as well.
My setup also included a custom grind cam from them. I am very satisfied and car idle is like factory with excellent vacuum. Good luck hope you’ll have some pics of the build... Last edited by Pro-tuned; 10-23-2017 at 03:41 AM. |
10-23-2017, 08:17 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2023 Camaro SS 1LE on order Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Bowling green Va
Posts: 293
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I advise you to upgrade to a 10 rib pulley setup.
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2017 Camaro SS 50th anniversary, I sold it but 2010 Camaro SS, whipple, cam, full bolt ons and full exhaust made 739/656 RWHP/TQ on 93 pump gas
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10-26-2017, 09:35 PM | #7 |
More then meets the eye!
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Thanks, I’ll look into the ten rib pulley upgrade, and I’ll definitely try that tip with the oil pick up bolt. I got three boxes from Jannette racing yesterday, and tomorrow I’m getting two boxes from Whipple. It’s been raining here on Maui so I want to wait a few days tell it clears up to start on this project.
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2010 2SS/RS, M6, OBX 7/8" l/t headers, with high flow cats, MBRP full 3" exhaust, Whipple supercharger, 3.875 pulley, ID-1050X 1260CC injectors, JRE rough idle street blower cam kit, ZL1 fp, ZL1 fpcm, ZR1 3 bar map sensor, cold air intake, Richman 4.10 gears, BMR toe rods, trailing arms, f/r sway bars, f/r sway bar end links, BMR end link brackets, full BMR poly bushing including solid rear cradle bushings, BMR frame connectors and tunnel brace, f/r Hurst swaybar bushing brackets, Fluidamper, MGR shifter, and tune by Jannetty Racing.
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