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Old 06-06-2020, 10:30 PM   #1
NXTLEVL
 
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Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Twin Turbo LSX454
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P0016 and P0507 - Reluctor wheel, timing chain or (hopefully) something easier

Hi guys. Iím back with yet another problem that at first glance seems to be an engine-pulling, major PITA issue. You may remember a few months ago I had an ongoing oil pressure issue that turned out to be a literally free gasket that I made that was causing all of the issues. Well, I donít think I caused this one but I hope the fix is as easy.

I took the car out for some spirited driving last weekend and experienced a major misfire in the upper RPM range, around 5,000RPM+. This was the first time that has ever happened so I went a few more rounds and it continued to do it. I quickly though about anything I had done since it last ran well and the only item I even touched was the intake pipe which I powder coated. Iím going to go out on a limb and say that wasnít the culprit. 😊

I noticed I had a check engine light and went home to scan it which is when I saw the codes in the title. P0016 and P0507. I have to assume theyíre related but if that doesnít makes sense let me know. Anyway, my research indicated the P0016 is related the crankshaft and camshaft not seeing the same thing in relation to position or timing. This would explain the high rpm breakup (unless the ECM not getting good signal messes with timing) but Iím trying to determine what my next steps should be. Other than the high rpm breakup the drive-ability isn't all that bad. Seems a little down on power but starts perfectly and can be driven around town. Hereís what Iíve done so far:

1.Replaced both the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft position Sensor
2.Check all wiring: No breaks and I have continuity between the sensor and the ECM
3.Reflashed the ECU with the last known good tune.


Questions about diagnosis/fix:

How do I determine if I actually have a physical problem like a rotated reluctor wheel or perhaps the timing chain jumped a tooth. If so, how do I figure out which one it is? What else could throw this code?

Questions about theory:

If the sensors are looking to see the same thing, or some sort of signal that correlates between the two can I just trick the ECM into thinking itís getting a good signal? In other words, is the comparison between the two signals actually necessary/useful? Iím aware itís used to determine misfires but outside that would not having a real signal cause damage to the engine if it were running well otherwise? Iím not even sure thatís possible but I just wanted more information on the use of the correlation between the two sensors.
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Old 06-07-2020, 10:17 PM   #2
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bump.... help...
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Old 06-09-2020, 08:34 AM   #3
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bump.. like my timing chain???
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Old 06-11-2020, 09:07 AM   #4
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Still struggling here. I did crank relearn last night and I'll take it for a drive today. I had to clean DTCs to get the relearn to work and when I pulled them I saw that I now have Throttle Position Sensor voltage high and low code. I'm beginning to think something else is going on. There's no way I have all of these issue that just now happen to break. What's going on???v
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Old 06-12-2020, 10:08 AM   #5
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No one has ever dealt with these codes? Can anyone tell me how to view base timing via HP Tuners? I can't even get that to work!! This is turning into a nightmare.
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Old 06-17-2020, 09:17 AM   #6
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bump
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Old 09-01-2020, 09:03 AM   #7
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So, this thread got literally NO feedback when I first experienced the issue which was disappointing but I did my research elsewhere and concluded the wheel had spun. I got the engine removed and a new wheel welded on. Well, that was about a month ago. Last week I experienced the same issue. Hesitation, rough running only this time the car died. Towed it back to my shop and pulled codes. Same P0016. I thought, no way can the wheel have spun again. Itís welded on!

Pulled the timing cover and saw a broken tensioner and a chain that looked slack. I figured it must have jumped timing but the marks lined up perfectly and there was no damage to either of the timing gears. I went ahead and replaced the set with a C5R set from Katech just to eliminate that off the bad. I went ahead and conducted the relator wheel test again and sure enough itís 16 teeth off.. 96* so Iím pretty sure thatís the issueÖ. Again!

I really hope someone chimes in this time. The last iteration I could chalk up to the wheel spinning because of the high horsepower and the press fit but now with the weld in place I canít fathom the little 2k to 5k sprint I did on the street spinning it. I have to assume something is physically wrong with the engine. I called Callies and they suggested to check crank runout as they feel a bent crank could cause the issue but I donít think any of the mains are bad but weíll need to look. It was running perfectly up to this point.

Any other suggestions?
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Old 09-01-2020, 10:35 AM   #8
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Sorry man, this is beyond my experience but you're not being ignored.

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Old 09-01-2020, 11:59 AM   #9
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Have you checked your grounding points and what about your coil packs?
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Old 09-01-2020, 05:13 PM   #10
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Have never heard Reluctor Wheel needing to be welded. Maybe someone in your power range has? How much hp you pushing?
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Old 09-01-2020, 05:24 PM   #11
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Your not getting ignored, some of us are just getting home.
At the same time your way over my head. Me, just a 6
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Old 03-02-2021, 12:26 PM   #12
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I also had P0016 code with extreme power loss. I got timing chain replaced but the code is still there and the car is still running sluggish. I am also looking for advise
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