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Old 08-12-2018, 10:40 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
The "track set" - pictured in my sig - is 285/35-18 MPSS on 18x11 F14 Forgestars, all four corners. What the 5th gen 1LE wore out back had some influence here. I put "track set" in quotes because they see at least as many street miles as track miles in travel to & from the track plus a bit more if I get lazy about changing them. I don't quite have to run a spacer up front, but the strut-side clearance is pretty tight (around 1.5 mm with the new Ford Racing hubs) and I'd need some spacing for anything wider than 285/xx in 18".

The other set, which so far has only seen street duty, is 265/40-18 MPSS on 18x9.5 SVT/Ford GT500 wheels. If I hadn't already had the 9.5" wide wheels, I'd have gone with 10's for those.

For reference, the car came with 235/50-18's on 18x8.5's.

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What's the widest size wheel that'll fit your Mustang without spacers?
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Old 08-13-2018, 08:33 AM   #30
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In 18", 18x11 up front, and I think Vorshlag got 18x12's to fit out back. With either 18x11's all around or the 11/12 stagger and no spacers, you'll end up with significantly different front vs rear offsets, maybe more than 15 mm, and front to rear rotation will not be possible.

Up front, there isn't room for any more than 11 without getting into custom bodywork. In the following picture taken just after fitting the 18x11's there is barely 0.045" wheel or tire clearance to the strut with the camber shown (about -2°), and on one side of the car it took an 0.025" DIY-fabbed spacer to get that much. With 19" or 20" wheels you'd gain small amounts of inside clearance, but not nearly enough to allow even 11.5" wide wheels without at least another quarter inch showing up outside the sheetmetal.





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Old 09-29-2018, 12:23 AM   #31
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i auto crossed for a couple years currently setting up with 19 by 10, 15 offset front to clear coil overs, and a 35 mm offset on the rear 285 35 19 re 71 Bridgestone's stock springs you could go 20 offset front
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:59 AM   #32
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got them installed yesterday lol a little late for the season...
a little bit of poke up front but some custom rock guards perhaps up front?
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:05 PM   #33
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got them installed yesterday lol a little late for the season...
a little bit of poke up front but some custom rock guards perhaps up front?
Sweet! What size are they? Is the car lowered too?
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:16 PM   #34
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Some other people have already alluded to this, I'll be more direct: Stop worrying about what to buy. It's irrelevant. You're going to be slow. Painfully slow. Your tires, wheels, and brakes will not be what hold you back. The track is going to be expensive enough without you draining your account with needless upgrades.

Get to the track. Find a track event. Check your local BMW CCA (which does not require BMW ownership to join or participate), all local track-day clubs, and if you can't find much - then go to a local auto-cross and ask the people there, quite a few will know of all the groups you can't find in the Googles.

Track for a year, maybe two. Go to as many events as you can afford (I budget between $1K and $1.2K per track event ... and its likely more than that if I add up everything). As you get faster, as you talk to people, as you learn what it means to actually get faster, you'll start to realize what the limiting factor of your car is.

We can start with the fact that you have a convertible with no roll hoops. That's likely going to kill you up front, but you might be able to find an organization that allows that. Once you get fast, you're going to bump up against brake fade. The fix won't be cheap, but it will save the car (and you), so do it right.

Then will be the turn-in, and you can address suspension, alignment, and rubber as needed and as funds make them self available.

Seriously. The "what do I need to buy before my first ever track day" is a face-palm moment for those of us that have been round a few corners. It will be thousands of laps before you start needing upgrades on a 400+ horsepower pony car. Work on the driver part for now (and for a long time to come).
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Old 11-16-2018, 05:53 PM   #35
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Sweet! What size are they? Is the car lowered too?
there are a ton of things to wrap your head around clearance wise, best bet is to go to a pro lots on here but for me I started with a track package from JDP and yes with coil overs have dropped car1.5 as have tire size probably 2.5" total and looks like i could get another inch but my cats will be 2.5 inches off at that point. good luck its a great feeling getting rid of the stock feel
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Old 12-13-2018, 01:41 PM   #36
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Would 18x9.5 & 38 offset squared wheels fit an LS without fit or suspension issues? Would 18x8.5 & 32 offset front with 18x9.5 & 38 offset rear wheels be better?

18" wheels don't fit without doing suspension mods.
The rear control arms need to be modified for clearance.
Emergency Brake lines need to be re-routed and tie wrapped out of the way.
Probably will have fitment issues with brakes.


I run 18X11 front, 18X12 rear. I severely modified a set of Spohn rear lower control arms to clear the inside barrel of the wheel. I get some rubbing from the rear sway bar in extreme cornering. Can't use wheel weights (stick on weights inside the wheel) as the clearance to brakes is non-existant.

It's a real PITA to load in the trailer, as the car is so low, I have to use 2X6 boards to load the car so it doesn't bottom out.

The plus side is I can pull 1.7+ G's on a skidpad...

You can't street drive with 18's on the Camaro.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:49 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 600hp-lpe View Post
18" wheels don't fit without doing suspension mods.
The rear control arms need to be modified for clearance.
Emergency Brake lines need to be re-routed and tie wrapped out of the way.
Probably will have fitment issues with brakes.

I run 18X11 front, 18X12 rear. I severely modified a set of Spohn rear lower control arms to clear the inside barrel of the wheel. I get some rubbing from the rear sway bar in extreme cornering. Can't use wheel weights (stick on weights inside the wheel) as the clearance to brakes is non-existant.

It's a real PITA to load in the trailer, as the car is so low, I have to use 2X6 boards to load the car so it doesn't bottom out.

The plus side is I can pull 1.7+ G's on a skidpad...

You can't street drive with 18's on the Camaro.
Great information. Thanks!
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:43 PM   #38
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The plus side is I can pull 1.7+ G's on a skidpad...
awesome love to see some pics or footage of this setup !
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