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Old 12-21-2015, 02:44 PM   #15
pancherj
 
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This is the first vehicle I have ever owned that had an oil cooler. Maybe for road course action it is needed...not for a daily driver or drag car.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:59 PM   #16
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Bypass plate, block plug, and correct upper heater hose is all you need.

I tend to agree for a drag car not needed. The factory cooler does have two purposes though for a daily driver as it puts heat in the oil for better cold start heating and to a degree cooling on hot days. I'd say you could definitely get by without though. Factory coolers are prone to leaking though some have never had a problem.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:34 PM   #17
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Plate, plug and hose...that will do it! You could by the plate that has AN fittings for an external cooler. Just block the ports and add the cooler later if needed.

As for the heating...that is true. I imagine they do that more for emissions/MPGs than anything.
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Old 12-23-2015, 03:16 PM   #18
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I climbed under the car today and see the difference for this with a 2012. There is a hose coming from the bottom corner of the radiator and goes straight into the cooler. What type of cap would suffice to block off the radiator? I was thinking just a plain rubber one but just don't know the size.
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:11 PM   #19
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A plain rubber cap should work. Not sure what size.
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pancherj View Post
Lots of leaks with the factory system. LS engines were going out the door by the millions before GM added the cooler. Maybe if they had done a better job on the engineering of the oil cooler system, the problems wouldn't be so pervasive in the Camaro and corvette community.
A few questions here.

"Lots of leaks with the system" Really? Where?

Millions of LS engines out there, yes there are. The Corvette, Camaro, trucks and SUV's all use a different oil cooling system. Depends on year, make and model.

In my opinion, Not pervasive at all.
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Old 12-24-2015, 11:23 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by LSX Camaro View Post
A few questions here.

"Lots of leaks with the system" Really? Where?

Millions of LS engines out there, yes there are. The Corvette, Camaro, trucks and SUV's all use a different oil cooling system. Depends on year, make and model.

In my opinion, Not pervasive at all.
A quick sampling of the population on this site alone would show the frequency. Here's what I can say about my situation: the machining on the plate that mounts to the block was poor. The backside is supposed to be flat and it appears to have been machined in at least two set ups. Not good for maintaining flatness. Also, the connectors for the lines are cheap. I am sure that is why GM went with them. Same style connectors on my trans lines also started to leak.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:50 PM   #22
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11.6 new pb :-)
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:34 PM   #23
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What are your guys thoughts on oil cooler delete with twin turbos? Deleted my cooler awhile ago but now am in in the process of twins. Car doesnt get tracked just some spirited street with occasional 1/4 runs. Im in montana so def. dont have crazy hot weather to deal with.
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Old 10-16-2018, 11:59 PM   #24
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What are your guys thoughts on oil cooler delete with twin turbos? Deleted my cooler awhile ago but now am in in the process of twins. Car doesnt get tracked just some spirited street with occasional 1/4 runs. Im in montana so def. dont have crazy hot weather to deal with.
This is a choose your poison type of question.

The biggest causes of coked up bearings in a turbo are...
Oil with Inadequate high-temperature range,
Oil with a wide multiviscosity range,
Extended oil change intervals,
Excessive heat in the bearing section.

So, don’t run right out and buy an oil cooler. Determine the temperature range your car will run and get an oil grade suitable for that range. To achieve the wide range multi viscosities, there are additives and these additives are part of what cokes up bearings. Hence, 10W 40 is better than 10W 50. Straight weight is the best in many cases. Typically ten points higher is suitable in summer driving... in your case, I doubt much winter driving is done.

You’ll have to build the car, get it tuned and then drive it to determine your individual needs. If you have a builder, they can help with this.

Obviously synthetics are more temp resistant than Dino oils. If you run a synthetic oil and the temps are within the published range of the oil, you’re good as long as you practice regular oil change intervals.

Temps too low are also not good for the turbos as this creates friction that should not be there.

If you determine you need an oil cooler, don’t buy the biggest one you can find as a good oil cooler can actually lower water coolant temps by as much as 15 degrees... this can effect the performance as well...

I run an oil cooler as I am in South Texas and my car creates huge amounts of heat. With the installation of mine, I lost 30-40 degrees of oil temp, from the mid to low 200’s and about 15 degrees of coolant temp, from 200 to about 185. We change oil before and after every racing event and I seldom get over 300 miles on an oil change... 14 qt dry sump system... extreme case. If I was driving under your described conditions, I would look at 2000-3000 miles max on an oil change interval regardless of what the published comments state. Oil is cheap compared to turbos. Monitor the temps and consider a small to mid sized cooler if needed...
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Old 10-17-2018, 09:50 PM   #25
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Thanks SSE for the advice. That was kinda my thought also to wait and see what happens. And as far as oil change intervals i only go about 1000 miles.
Thanks again!
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