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Old 10-29-2018, 03:33 PM   #15
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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Originally Posted by WoodBoss View Post
I don't think that is the case Joe. Those solenoids can handle a lot of pressure. With your converter your rpms are probably higher before the throttle body opens completely and sends the signal to the solenoids. My stock converter will delay the rpms from rising as it starts to lock around 1000 rpms. I'm also still using the 125 HP fuel jet to restrict flow as I was running a bit fat at WOT. I have not had any issues foot braking at 1500 rpm and stomping it to the floor. If you look at your data log you can see at what rpm your throttle body is completely open and sends the signal to the ZEX control box.

I don't care what you guys talk about on here if you want to talk about gears or differentials that's cool with me.
I haven't got a saved log to look at. I believe with the Bo White PTB it doesn't have the delay the stock TB has, but I would assume that with my 3200 stall, the rpms do get up quicker vs. stock when flashing from idle.

If this explosion damaged your throttle body at all, I still have my stock one if you need a replacement.
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:44 PM   #16
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Glad you're ok, that's sketchy for sure. I dunno about using the nitrous during the burnout - too many things to go wrong there. I follow the concept of purging that way, but I would want to mitigate risk and harshness on the driveline whenever possible.
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Old 10-30-2018, 08:19 AM   #17
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Thanks Joe, I have my stock throttle body as well. The car is running and driving fine, I'll just be sure to be at a higher rpm before I let the Nitrous engage in the future and will not use it during a burnout. Hopefully the standard purge works good enough.
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:21 AM   #18
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So, do you not use an rpm window switch?
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Old 11-01-2018, 03:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
When I was not using nitrous, I was able to get low 1.7X 60' times flashing the converter. I never got better than a 1.8X foot braking it. This is with a Circle D 3200 TC. It flashes to 3300 rpm, but with a footbrake, I can only get to around 2600 rpm before the car overrides the rear brakes.

Be advised though, the stock rear end on our cars is definitely not designed for hard launches. If you haven't already, I'd upgrade the toe links and trailing arms at the very least.

After nitrous, I am able to cut 1.5X 60' times, and I upgraded the stock posi with an Eaton True-trac and still broke a CV joint on a stock rear axle. DSS 1000HP axles are going in now. I just hope the stock driveshaft doesn't go next, but if it does I'll upgrade it too.

Eventually you will wear out the stock clutch packs in the differential, and your car will do 1 wheel burnouts, you can either get an upgraded clutch pack kit for around $200 or a True-trac for $600. I went with the TT because it has no clutch packs to wear out and it's good up to 1000 hp, about double what my car makes now. The car launches dead straight with the TT.

I also aired up the front tires to 45 psi instead of the normal 34-35 psi I use on the street in the 20" front tires after the 3200 stall was put in. This helped the car to squat better and hook up more consistently on the launch.

I'm just curious how Frank's gas ended up pooling in the cold air intake tube causing the explosion out of the filter, it obviously didn't damage the car too bad, as he stated he patched it up, and then proceeded to run the best time the car has ever ran.

The main thing though is that he is OK and no one got hurt.
I really appreciate the knowledge. I have the Circle D 3200 stall as well. I will be doing the rear trailering arms and toelinks over the winter. Ya Franks good to go. Nothing to bad and no injuries thats good.
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:00 AM   #20
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So, do you not use an rpm window switch?
No I do not use a window switch, I like the Nitrous to come on at the hit off the line. RPMs are rising at that point and starting at 1500 rpms rather than 500 rpms at idle. I made a couple runs after that without a problem but no more burnouts with Nitrous I have been using this ZEX systems for two years now at the track. I have slowly incremented up from a 100HP - 150HP shot. Hopefully I get to make a few more runs in before the weather gets cold and it goes under "The Knife" for a new cam. Then I will drop back to 100 HP shot before going back to a 150 shot.
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:08 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
I haven't got a saved log to look at. I believe with the Bo White PTB it doesn't have the delay the stock TB has, but I would assume that with my 3200 stall, the rpms do get up quicker vs. stock when flashing from idle.

If this explosion damaged your throttle body at all, I still have my stock one if you need a replacement.
Joe, did you get any runs in this past Sunday with the new axles in? I got your phone message, thanks man, I just been balls to the wall with firewood deliveries the past week with no end in sight so I must have been out of the truck stacking or loading. I'll take that extra axle off your hands as a spare, thanks. I picked up an LPW Differential Cover to beef up the rear and hopefully keep things together a little longer as It's probably living on borrowed time with this setup. Time to change the fluid soon anyway.
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:35 PM   #22
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No I do not use a window switch, I like the Nitrous to come on at the hit off the line. RPMs are rising at that point and starting at 1500 rpms rather than 500 rpms at idle. I made a couple runs after that without a problem but no more burnouts with Nitrous I have been using this ZEX systems for two years now at the track. I have slowly incremented up from a 100HP - 150HP shot. Hopefully I get to make a few more runs in before the weather gets cold and it goes under "The Knife" for a new cam. Then I will drop back to 100 HP shot before going back to a 150 shot.
To each his own, but I wouldn't dream of running a nitrous kit without a window switch and a fuel pressure switch at a minimum for safeties. You incident reinforces why. What happens when you break and you spray deep into the limiter? What happens if the fuel pump packs it in on the back half? And the 6L80 doesn't have a stellar reputation, I dunno if I'd be spraying through the shifts with a stock one.

You've obviously had good success with your setup, proof that you don't need those additional safety margins. In my mind, the potential to be bitten in the ass greatly outweighs the cost.
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Old 11-06-2018, 12:44 PM   #23
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To each his own, but I wouldn't dream of running a nitrous kit without a window switch and a fuel pressure switch at a minimum for safeties. You incident reinforces why. What happens when you break and you spray deep into the limiter? What happens if the fuel pump packs it in on the back half? And the 6L80 doesn't have a stellar reputation, I dunno if I'd be spraying through the shifts with a stock one.

You've obviously had good success with your setup, proof that you don't need those additional safety margins. In my mind, the potential to be bitten in the ass greatly outweighs the cost.

I'll have to think about, initially I though that a fuel pressure switch may be good but Nitrous without fuel isn't flammable. Have you seen an instance where someone lost all their fuel and they had a problem? Spraying during shifting has been pretty good really, it bangs gears pretty good.
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Old 11-06-2018, 02:05 PM   #24
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I'll have to think about, initially I though that a fuel pressure switch may be good but Nitrous without fuel isn't flammable. Have you seen an instance where someone lost all their fuel and they had a problem? Spraying during shifting has been pretty good really, it bangs gears pretty good.
It's far more likely that you would lose some fuel pressure, lean out, and hurt the motor.

Spraying through the shifts is definitely faster - and with a good trans tune it'll probably take a good bit of that - totally a "your choice" kind of deal.

But man, a window switch, to at the very least keep shut the spray off before the limiter in the event of a driveline failure, seems like a no brainer - especially for somebody that runs as much as you do. It would also save you in the event that you do get something wrong and somehow get the car WOT at too low of an rpm - you've seen how that can work out.
You've said you know your drive-line may be on borrowed time - I wouldn't ask for any more trouble and keep it "safe". Just my two cents, something to think about.
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Old 11-06-2018, 02:29 PM   #25
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It's far more likely that you would lose some fuel pressure, lean out, and hurt the motor.

Spraying through the shifts is definitely faster - and with a good trans tune it'll probably take a good bit of that - totally a "your choice" kind of deal.

But man, a window switch, to at the very least keep shut the spray off before the limiter in the event of a driveline failure, seems like a no brainer - especially for somebody that runs as much as you do. It would also save you in the event that you do get something wrong and somehow get the car WOT at too low of an rpm - you've seen how that can work out.
You've said you know your drive-line may be on borrowed time - I wouldn't ask for any more trouble and keep it "safe". Just my two cents, something to think about.
Yes, I'm wanting a fail safe for not getting into the rev limiter if something would fail. I'm looking into what the ZEX kit is actually compatible with. I'll find out and report back here, setting a high limit and a low limit would be nice. Thanks for your input and suggestions. I know if I break the wire going to the throttle body WOT signal wire the ZEX system will shut off fuel and nitrous with it's PCM. I may be able to wire that pressure sensor into that wire in series. I'll be checking this out.
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Old 11-06-2018, 02:54 PM   #26
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Yes, I'm wanting a fail safe for not getting into the rev limiter if something would fail. I'm looking into what the ZEX kit is actually compatible with. I'll find out and report back here, setting a high limit and a low limit would be nice. Thanks for your input and suggestions. I know if I break the wire going to the throttle body WOT signal wire the ZEX system will shut off fuel and nitrous with it's PCM. I may be able to wire that pressure sensor into that wire in series. I'll be checking this out.
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:00 PM   #27
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:01 PM   #28
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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Joe, did you get any runs in this past Sunday with the new axles in? I got your phone message, thanks man, I just been balls to the wall with firewood deliveries the past week with no end in sight so I must have been out of the truck stacking or loading. I'll take that extra axle off your hands as a spare, thanks. I picked up an LPW Differential Cover to beef up the rear and hopefully keep things together a little longer as It's probably living on borrowed time with this setup. Time to change the fluid soon anyway.
Yes I got a couple passes in on Sunday. I was shocked at the results. Prior best was a 1.56 60' and 7.42 ET. After the new 1/2 shafts it cut a 1.48 60' and ran 7.27.

I figured you were busy working, you had a lot of wood to cut up last time I stopped by. Next time I'm up that way I'll drop off the good one (driver's side), maybe hide it under the grill like I did last time?


The second pass was a little slower ET @ 7.3, but the 60' was the same 1.48.
DA was 1000 on 1st pass, and I suppose a little higher on 2nd pass. How do you get 1.5 tenths from axles? I don't have a clue. But I'll take it!!!!

I did fall asleep at the light though. Worst reaction time I can recall having!

The Zex kit we both use will not send nitrous through if the amount of fuel isn't adequate. It immediately shuts nitrous off. On my first pass with it I had less than a 1/4tank of gas, the same way I ran N/A to save weight, the car didn't get enough gas through the Schrader valve and the nitrous never came on, they designed it this way so you cant run lean. I made a pass a few months later after making several passes, and had a little over a 1/4 tank, just past the 330' mark the nitrous cut off. I make sure I have at least 1/2 tank in the car now to be sure it's getting enough fuel. This is a great feature of the Zex kit that prevents you from running lean.
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