Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Roto-Fab
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > General Camaro Forums > 5th Gen Camaro SS LS LT General Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-09-2020, 11:18 PM   #29
Teeth
 
Teeth's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Columbia, South Carolina
Posts: 223
Quote:
Originally Posted by ariZona28 View Post
240 is pretty darn hot for casual driving, even in traffic. I think you need to do some basic troubleshooting before you cook your engine. All air out of system. Fans coming on and spinning in correct direction, note temp they come on. Fans coming on with AC selected. Good airflow through radiator. T-stat opening. Ignition timing correct. I've had to do some pretty hillbilly tricks on other vehicle types trying to figure hot issues including driving with no hood and 12v direct to fans for temporary full time operation. I wouldn't drive your Camaro for transpo until problem is fixed and I would definitely not run the AC. Get a rental or something. You live in AZ, you need to fix this soon before the weather gets toasty.
That's what I'm trying to do, fix this thing before it gets too hot. It usually only happens if I have the car running for more than an hour and slow down from highway speeds to regular roads (40mph)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS View Post
How do you hear the fans working hard but they’re not coming on at all? Most of this thread doesn’t make any sense...
They work when the car gets waaaayyyy above temp, I can only hear them running when the car is stopped, since the cam really cuts out the sound so easily.

It seems they only turn on when things get drastic, but I need them on a lot sooner than that.

Sorry for being so odd with explaining.
__________________
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS:
Cyber gray matte wrap, Danti Lambo style louvers, Granatelli Pro-stock look wing
B&M transcooler, Mishimoto oil cooler, Mishimoto catchcan, Borla/Pypebomb axle back
L99 to LS3 conversion, Vararam ram air intake, BTR Nightfury cam, Johnson lifters, LS7 injectors, Circle D 3200 stall converter, Kooks LT headers, Custom X-pipe
Teeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 12:07 AM   #30
Avenging Orange


 
Avenging Orange's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Clermont, IN
Posts: 3,297
Still thinking air in cooling system. I've had several cammed cars and never had to change t-stat or change fan settings.
__________________
2010 Inferno Orange 2SS/RS M6 Black Leather, Sun Roof, OBX Headers, Borla touring axle back, Cold Air Inductions CAI , non synthetic fluids, BMR total bushing upgrade/1" lowering springs, DSE 32mm rear sway bar. GM fe4 shocks/struts/LCA's, AAM 3.91 diff, Vertini RFS1.8 20x9 +30. Conti ExtremeContact Sport 275/35/20. sjm autoprod ABL dash kit. Mike Norris tuned 413/419.
Avenging Orange: 43 years of not buying into the Hype........and damn proud of it!!
https://youtu.be/9JD9it6SmB8
https://youtu.be/xmelTlEzI34
KICKING CANCERS ASS SINCE 2015!!
Avenging Orange is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 12:22 AM   #31
StingrayblueSS

 
StingrayblueSS's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 901
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeth View Post
It probably just is my headers getting hot. I don't think there is enough heat shielding by my feet now that I think of it


240F
A 160° thermostat will only bring it down 10 of 15 degrees. I would flush the coolant again you may not have gotten all the dexos out. Or you have air trapped in the system.
__________________
2013 Camaro SS
Kooks Headers Vararam DRX 1le Differential 3.91
Bo White throttle body Magnaflow Competition Exhaust
12.391 112 MPH 10/05/19
StingrayblueSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 12:28 AM   #32
Teeth
 
Teeth's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Columbia, South Carolina
Posts: 223
i'll flush it again then, didn't get around to doing so on sunday like I said, thanks all

new Tstat for sure though
__________________
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS:
Cyber gray matte wrap, Danti Lambo style louvers, Granatelli Pro-stock look wing
B&M transcooler, Mishimoto oil cooler, Mishimoto catchcan, Borla/Pypebomb axle back
L99 to LS3 conversion, Vararam ram air intake, BTR Nightfury cam, Johnson lifters, LS7 injectors, Circle D 3200 stall converter, Kooks LT headers, Custom X-pipe
Teeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 12:35 AM   #33
ariZona28
Give speed a chance
 
ariZona28's Avatar
 
Drives: 2015 Camaro 2LS, 2015 Camaro Z/28
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Mesa, Az
Posts: 2,230
Did this problem start before or after the coolant swap? Sure sounds like airflow/fan problem. To check fan operation try getting engine coolant temp up to about 160 or 170 or so with some moderate driving, then return home (or even a parking lot) pop hood and see if fans are running. Make note of what the coolant temp is when fans turn on. Also see if fans turn on with AC selected on. Should be able to see, hear fans running and feel a good breeze. BOTH should be running. Curious as to what your oil temp is also. Be patient and methodical and you'll figure this out.
ariZona28 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 07:07 AM   #34
Greenhornet2

 
Greenhornet2's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,925
I've drained the system for the Whipple, and the Cam. I never had a problem with air at all. I ran it with the cap off until the Tstat opened refilled. Drove it then rechecked the next day once cooled and topped off and that is it. You may be air bound, how are you flushing, or refilling the coolant? Fill it slowly topping it off every 30 seconds for a few minutes then start it and idle, top off again wait until the engine is up to temp with cap still off, it should burp when the tstat opens and you'll be able to fill again. put cap on it shouldn't overheat, UNLESS the fans are still not coming on. if they are not coming on until very high temp it may be an error in the tune, or possible an issue with your fan relays. Do BOTH fans kick on, or only one? You have to go physically look.
Cooling Fan Relay 1 operates both fans at a low speed
Cooling Fan Relay 2 and 3 operates the left fan at a high speed
Cooling Fan Relay 1, 2 and 3 operates both fans at a high speed
__________________
Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane
Greenhornet2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 07:14 AM   #35
Badbubba
GrINned & JUICEd
 
Badbubba's Avatar
 
Drives: 15STI, 10Expy, 10 2SS/RS M6, 47KB1
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,247
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeth View Post
It probably just is my headers getting hot. I don't think there is enough heat shielding by my feet now that I think of it


240F
I don't see a need to flush it again. Air in the system will get you to 240F. Mine did. They do not purge easily. Remove radiator cap and top off and fill reservoir about half full and replace reservoir cap. Some people will pull onto ramps or park uphill to assist purging. Start car and turn heat on. Continue to add coolant to the radiator as the level drops. As the engine warms, the top hose will begin to get hot. When the coolant starts to spill out of the radiator, replace cap. Squeeze the top rad hose like crazy with a gloved hand(s), it will be hot. I squeezed mine the entire time it was warming up as well. Be mindful of the coolant temp. I shut mine off at 225. Let it cool down. Check reservoir level. Start car and repeat with squeezing the upper hose while not allowing the reservoir tank to go empty. Repeat, repeat, repeat, until temps stabilize between 200-210F. What was the coolant temp before the flush? Whoever tuned your car may have set the fan(s) to come on earlier.
__________________
GPI SS3 Cam & stuff,N.O. Plate(dedicated fuel tank,progressive,fuel hose upgrade,remote opener,heater,console switches),LNC2000,CTAP,ARH 1 7/8" LTs/gutted cats/X pipe/mufflers,Jet Hot coated LTs,GPI HPT Tune,CAI, Scoop,Rx Catch Can,Gates heater hose relocation, Remote clutch & auto brake res,Metco loop,Momentum Tunnel Brace,TSW Nurb 18",555 & 05,Pfadt trailing arms & toe rods,Autometer WB,Fesler Pillar Pod,LED strips (int),Lloyds floor & trunk mats,LED DRL/front turn & license plate,DRL harness,VLEDs tail lights,Plasticoat Bowties. Ord: Oct 5, 2009 Rec: Nov 19, 2009 13.17@112.6 stock
Badbubba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 08:04 AM   #36
pyroguy
Started#gottalovethatblue
 
pyroguy's Avatar
 
Drives: ABM #831
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: TN
Posts: 6,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeth View Post
240F
Yep, that's too hot. You either have a bad sensor, bad thermostat, or you're not getting coolant where it needs to be. Whichever way you slice it, you might want to run it by a shop and see if there's any codes telling you which of the three you're having problems with before you're buying a new engine.
__________________
'10 Camaro 2SS/RS | Aqua Blue #831 of 3,903 | Silver Stripes
Check out my build thread
pyroguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 02:15 PM   #37
MrChrisLS3


 
Drives: 2018 1SS M6
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
I don't see a need to flush it again. Air in the system will get you to 240F. Mine did. They do not purge easily. Remove radiator cap and top off and fill reservoir about half full and replace reservoir cap. Some people will pull onto ramps or park uphill to assist purging. Start car and turn heat on. Continue to add coolant to the radiator as the level drops. As the engine warms, the top hose will begin to get hot. When the coolant starts to spill out of the radiator, replace cap. Squeeze the top rad hose like crazy with a gloved hand(s), it will be hot. I squeezed mine the entire time it was warming up as well. Be mindful of the coolant temp. I shut mine off at 225. Let it cool down. Check reservoir level. Start car and repeat with squeezing the upper hose while not allowing the reservoir tank to go empty. Repeat, repeat, repeat, until temps stabilize between 200-210F. What was the coolant temp before the flush? Whoever tuned your car may have set the fan(s) to come on earlier.
This is the most likely cause. I would think that after the cam install the system wasn't purged properly. It is a P.I.A. to do.
MrChrisLS3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2020, 02:32 PM   #38
LsxDoctor
15 Year LS1Tech Member
 
LsxDoctor's Avatar
 
Drives: 2010 ss 391ci LS3
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 252
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teeth View Post
i'll flush it again then, didn't get around to doing so on sunday like I said, thanks all

new Tstat for sure though
Make sure to jack the car up a little in the front so the rad cap is the highest point and have the heater on high when you're bleeding the coolant.
__________________

GJDM
LsxDoctor is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.