08-12-2020, 04:22 PM | #1 |
Streetkingz_chri55
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Transmission hotter after cooler installed
I guess its safe to say that even after a transmission cooler.. this mofo is shot🙄🙄🙄....
Back story Transmission ran so hot that the car told me it was hot so I parked it for 3 months while it was getting painted... installed a Transmission cooler and the heat is still rising... usually never sees 200 on just crusing... its about 75 or 80 degrees wow taking these It usually sits around 180 cruising but the last 2 days which is after I installed the cooler it gets to the line between 180 and 320... it shifts prefect. No flair or anything. only problem is let's say I'm at the light.. its idling high. Like around 900 950 1000.. and when I let off the gas it takes off quicker then normal, and about 2 feet into the roll it act like it downshifts.. but doesn't because I tried with the paddle shifter as well, then acts normal.... Plan so far is to take it get it checked and flushed.. then go from there. Any ideas |
08-12-2020, 04:37 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,143
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Might be worth it to trouble shoot the temp sensor.
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08-12-2020, 05:34 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Wichita,KS
Posts: 603
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I dont know how accurate those gauges are but when I look at my transmission temp on my aeroforce gauge it's like 20 degrees cooler.
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2011 Camaro 2SS, 6.0 iron block forged bottom end, Dart heads, BTR intake, Huron twin turbo kit, Summit stage 3 twin turbo cam, Circle D stage 4 6L90, 3800 FTI converter. BMR suspension, Viking coil overs, Fore triple pump fuel system.
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08-12-2020, 05:44 PM | #4 |
Account Suspended
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If you put the cooler on the output side lof the rad (to trans), then to the trans, you should
not be seeing hotter temps. When you use JUST the cooler, temps will spike at idle. The trans lines run to the rad, then out of the rad, to the cooler. I always install a cooler after the rad, and temps stayed in the 175 area. The rad portion stabilizes the temperature, then the cooler after will reduce temps. If you use a stand alone, it has to be at least 3/4 of, or the whole length across the front of the radiator (usally in between condenser and rad) least 5a " tall assembly. EXAMPLE: Bottom is an OEM cooler, LONG, spans the width of the rad, about 5" tall. Bottom, same width, and a lot taller, aftermarket cooler. Something like THIS, will not work as a stand-alone: OR THOSE are "After" the rad aux coolers. When mine got into the 260 degree range, it shifted harshly, and sloppy. So, you're lucky if yours acted normal on temperatures that high, or higher. I had a coolant issue, everything was getting too hot because the rad cap was bad. I use after the rad AUX coolers, and as I said, and temps stay under 180 cruising. My mustang, with the stand-alone factory cooler, 173 degrees cruising. will get to 190+ at idle. It doesn't have a rad cooler in it, they come with that long stand-alone cooler. |
08-12-2020, 06:45 PM | #5 |
Streetkingz_chri55
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08-12-2020, 06:48 PM | #6 | |
Streetkingz_chri55
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Quote:
I went with the trucool 40k.. still running the oem rad as well.. so it run though the rad.. to the cooler then back |
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