How to Adjust Your Camaro's Door Glass (in 3 directions)

[TAG UR IT]

I have heard that there are apparently a couple of folks having some issues with their door glass not being in the right position.

HAVE NO FEAR!!!

We are here to help!



Here's a little info on what can be done to fix your door glass...it's really an easy fix. It just takes a little time and patience.

1st...if you don't want to take on the task yourself, run it in to the dealer and have it fixed under warranty. They should be able to get it done. However, if you've taken it there and they haven't a clue, if you are more of a "do it yourself-er," or your car ends up running out of warranty (for those years down the road), .....

....then read on....

There are two issues that cause the door glass to catch the (Scalp) molding when opening a Camaro door. The door glass is either set too far forward or too high.

Determine what issue is causing your problem.

Glass too far forward: From the rear edge of the door glass to the stationary black metal vertical trim you MUST have a consistent gap of 7 to 9 mm (1/4 TO 5/16 INCH )with the door closed, glass up.

Glass too high: If your vertical gap is a consistent 7 to 9 mm then your glass is too high,

To make these adjustments, you must remove the door pad. Once the door pad is removed, you will notice a black, waterproof liner. This liner must be pulled down to expose the two 10 mm bolt heads that have to be loosened (Do Not Remove Bolts, JUST Loosen) to make glass adjustments. The door glass sits in two V grooved saddles that are attached to the door regulators that move the glass up and down. The front saddle simply closes tightly (squeezes the V sides together) when the bolt on the bottom of the saddle is tightened.

On the rear, lower edge of the door glass, there is a 1 inch hole. The rearward bolt that you must loosen to make adjustments goes through this hole into the back side of the saddle.

Adjustment hints when adjusting the glass.

Have a friend assist you by holding the glass in position while you loosen and tighten.

Make small, multiple adjustments until you obtain the proper glass position.

Remove the window switch from the door pad and using it for testing.

Use a marking pencil or crayon to mark your present glass location. Mark the glass (on the outside) at the vertical rubber edge where your door mirror is located. You can also mark your glass on the outside of the horizontal door molding. Use the vertical and horizontal mark on the glass as a reference point when moving the glass.

Lowering the glass from the front saddle only will raise the rear section of the door glass. If there is a need to lower the glass, adjust both glass saddles.

After making any type of glass adjustment, ALWAYS close the door SLOWLY and observe that the glass is NOT hitting the scalp molding.

When testing your adjustments with the door pad off, tuck all wires and cables to a safe location when closing door.

When removing the driver’s door pad, remove the tweeter speaker first.

When removing your door pad on the driver’s side, unplug the trunk release button last by inverting the door pad for easy removal.

Use a bent screwdriver to remove the plastic cover-up (potato chip) behind the interior release handle to expose a hold down bolt.

Once all the door pad fasteners (and tweeter) are removed from the door pad, position your hand from the inside of the door pad rearward of the tweeter location and PULL door pad off. Have someone hold the door as you pull the pad off. Before pulling pad off door frame, double check that ALL fasteners are removed.

To locate (easier access) the front and rear saddle bolts (10 mm head) lower the window glass with the switch that has been removed from the door pad.

When unplugging or reconnecting your door switch, have your ignition key in the off position or simply remove your key from the cylinder or you will set off a code.

Moving the curvature of the door glass inward or outward is the third adjustment that can be made to your door glass. To access, remove the two rectangular rubber patches that are on the underside of the door. By loosening the exposed nut you can move the bottom of the regulator inboard or outboard. A good starting point for the front regulator is inboard with a slight gap (3/8inch). The rear regulator set ½ to ¾ outboard.

I hope these tips and hints help you out as you give it a go!

~Tag

[Revo1]

Nice to know, thanks for posting Tag!

[IOM-SS]

the one thing i notice is when i stop the car & engine open the door the window goes down slightly when i close the door it goes up seals closed.

:5thgenvert:

[Tysen]

Originally Posted by IOM-SS

the one thing i notice is when i stop the car & engine open the door the window goes down slightly when i close the door it goes up seals closed.

Punctuation bro. It helps a lot.
Your window is supposed to do that.

[2010 SSRS]

cool

[RSHugger]

Good write up and pictures would even make it better

[BackinBlackSS/RS]

Originally Posted by IOM-SS

the one thing i notice is when i stop the car & engine open the door the window goes down slightly when i close the door it goes up seals closed.

:5thgenvert:

This is your window indexing. It is a feature of this car.

[justmeron]

[SamReidland]

Finally! I have been waiting for this.

[My 5th]

This is good, but my windows catch the channel on a random basis. Sometimes either door opens and closes properly--no glass chunking against the window channel. But there are times on both opening and closing the glass hits the channel. This doesn't seem like a glass adjustment problem, but rather a window motor speed or syncronization problem. The passenger door/window is more affected by this than the driver's door. Anyone have any ideas on how to solve this?

[LT1Jeep]

Not to hijack but it is window related: anyone find that som
etimes when you hit auto up the window goes up then down halfway and stops?

[NightmareSS]

What about when your window comes back down a little after closing it? When I close my passenger window it something triggers the safety feature when it reaches the top like something is in the way.....causing it to come back down a few inches.....I brought it to my dealer and they said they fixed it but it still does it

[The 2010 Sin]

my passenger window clicks almost everytime because the indexing is too slow when opening the door. Its fine if you hold the door closed pull the handle and watch the window index down and then open the door... Delay delay delay.. oh well 'F' it.. its under warranty! :-)

[Black_2SS]

I've adjusted my twice now and it seems to keep slipping down. I have noticed that sometimes it will 'catch' going up and go back down. Its kinda annoying. I always figured it was the shops fault after replacing my door (stupid deer!!). Anyone know if a dealer will still work it if I've had the door replaced by a local body shop? I assume the full warranty still applies. Anyway, thanks for the info I'm gonna have to tear into it I guess.