lost a nut?????????????

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by oldman14ss

greenhornet, understood, I think I will still use locktite can't hurt. hope you're right about the damage. back in the 60's and 70's Chrysler put the lugs nuts on the right side with left hand threads to combat the loosening by the direction of rotation. for we drive forward more than reverse. gonna pull the drivers wheel and check that one too. I failed to mention that I put anti seize on threads before torque. what a moron move by an oldman.

None of this is relevant.
You did not stake the nut after you torqued it. There is a procedure in the service manual for this. I believe the nut torque is 199 lb/ft. Nut part # 11611234 I will double check the torque this evening at home. I have the service manual.

Here is a staked nut (not a Camaro)


Loctite is not needed if you stake the nut. The nuts are staked from the factory and never come off.

[cdb95z28]

This is an UNSTAKED nut on a Gen5 Camaro. The slot in the axle is where you stake the nut. EDIT: It is possible the nut is staked at the 6:00 position!

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

Are you sure the axle nuts go on that tight? These bearings are preloaded,
and not the same as a spindle hub bearing. The same bearings for these cars
are front and rear, and there is no axle nut up front. My service manual says:
Rear Wheel Bearing and Hub Bolts 115 N.m 85 lb ft


You go 199, and you will crush the front race, or lower the service life of the
bearing.


199 ft-lbs is WAY too tight! You will stress the bearings, and lower service
life going that tight. Reusing them once, they still go on at that spec! I
did mine 3-weeks ago, and the lock-nut still did it's job, I could not spin it
on by hand at all, so it still worked. If you can spin it on by hand, all the
way down to that front race, then you need locktite.

Do not go over 90 ft-lbs! Do not air-tool them on. Put it on by hand, then
torque it down right. People ruin so many wheel bearings going too tight.
Especially ones that do not come preloaded. When you put the bearing
on, into the knuckle, that sets the bearing. The axle nut plays no part in
setting or preloading these, or you'd need a spindle up front for the nut.

Wrong.
The torque you mentioned (85) is to fasten the wheel bearing assembly to the knuckle.

The rear wheel bearing rollers and races will not see the 199 lb/ft of torque. The inner race of the bearing will be part of the completed axle assembly that is all stacked together. Nothing will collapse.

[cdb95z28]

To stake the nut, torque to proper spec, take a big frickin' hammer and a 3/8"-1/2" wide heavy chisel and place it on the black area of the pic.

Hit the chisel straight down with your BFH and deform the edge of the nut into the slot in the axle. This keeps the nut from moving.

A chisel that is worn down is best as a new one will be very sharp and may slice the steel.

[cdb95z28]

Better pics of staked nuts

[Moto-Mojo]

You gotta love the fact that a BFH (hammer) and a BFC (chisel) still have a place in this world!

[Mouse330]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Wrong.
The torque you mentioned (85) is to fasten the wheel bearing assembly to the knuckle.

The rear wheel bearing rollers and races will not see the 199 lb/ft of torque. The inner race of the bearing will be part of the completed axle assembly that is all stacked together. Nothing will collapse.

i was just gonna chime in then I saw this
Bravo

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by oldman14ss

greenhornet, understood, I think I will still use locktite can't hurt. hope you're right about the damage. back in the 60's and 70's Chrysler put the lugs nuts on the right side with left hand threads to combat the loosening by the direction of rotation. for we drive forward more than reverse. gonna pull the drivers wheel and check that one too. I failed to mention that I put anti seize on threads before torque. what a moron move by an oldman.

No reason for anti-seize. clean the threads before you reinstall, otherwise your torque value will be inaccurate. GM lists the torque for dry, clean threads. I will confirm the torque value this evening. As mentioned there shouldn't be any damage. The only things that possibly saw stress were the bearings and the axle splines. The splines maybe would (slightly) move in and out as the suspension moved thru its range of motion. But the CV joint can accept that engineered in movement also. And I think the CV joints create an axial preload once installed so they probably take up any slack before the nut is tightened. The bearings maybe saw some shock if the axle moved in and out of the bearing via the splines. I suspect you didn't run the car hard in those 500 rear gear break in miles. Look for anything obvious, otherwise, send it! No worries.

[Mouse330]

torque is 199 lb/ft

[cdb95z28]

[oldman14ss]

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! I have the service manual also. I need to read more closely. I did put a drop of locktite blue on it anyway. went to 150 ftlbs on my torque wrench. as far as it would go. then I took a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a cheater and beared down hard enough to twist the breaker bar. and yes,yes,yes! I will stake them. thanks for all your help. youre all the best. the oldman...

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

So in other words you have no idea how much torque you put on the nut, if you twisted the breaker bar you’ve probably got way more than 199 on it. That would have probably only been 1/4-1/2 turn more than 150.

[Black_SS10]

My goodness. As many others said. Some bad info on this thread. I just gonna repeat it, for the people in the back.

Gather the proper tools and torque specs prior to any work.
The axle threads need to be cleaned with brush. Put on a new axle nut, no locktite is needed. Torque to spec at 199ftlbs. Stake the nut.

[oldman14ss]

staked my axles and baked my tires. 4320 in the ring and pinion is harder to breakin I think I still have a whine in my new gears and true track on the coast side. changed diff fluid a 500 miles. whine seems to be going away anyone else take a while to break in? miles ?