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Old 06-21-2015, 10:40 AM   #29
camarossdusk
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I was told my whipple would max out at 950 rwhp with a built motor, my previous car was a 880 rwhp 4th gen, turbo car, on the highest hp setting is not very easy to drive on street. my current 5th gen. is 651/658, and on m/t drag radials hooks good if on a good street, its a lot of fun, just saying be prepared reliability starts to drop at 900 rwhp and up.
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Whipple running 13 lbs of boost, Innovators west 8 rib with 10 percent over drive crankshaft pulley. Fore level 2 Dual pump fuel system, with duel TI auto fuel pumps, ID 1300 fuel injectors, tuned on e85. Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft, 1400 hp half shafts, Detroit tru-trac. ls9 camshaft, CNC ported heads, with trunion and dual valve spring upgrade, LS9 head gaskets, ARP 2000 head studs, Manley stainless valves. Adjustable Bmr toe rods, trailing arms, rear adjustable sway bar, full cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, BMR diff. bushings, bmr driveshaft safety loop.
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:41 AM   #30
camarossdusk
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yes i agree it takes lots of money when get up that high in hp.
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Whipple running 13 lbs of boost, Innovators west 8 rib with 10 percent over drive crankshaft pulley. Fore level 2 Dual pump fuel system, with duel TI auto fuel pumps, ID 1300 fuel injectors, tuned on e85. Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft, 1400 hp half shafts, Detroit tru-trac. ls9 camshaft, CNC ported heads, with trunion and dual valve spring upgrade, LS9 head gaskets, ARP 2000 head studs, Manley stainless valves. Adjustable Bmr toe rods, trailing arms, rear adjustable sway bar, full cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, BMR diff. bushings, bmr driveshaft safety loop.
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:44 AM   #31
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1000hp is totally usable. Just only really usable over 80+mph on good tires. R888's or MT ET's.
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:07 PM   #32
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Where is the op? A lot of good replies to his question?
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:17 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullF-16 View Post
That's the reason to get a good boost controller...and set it up correctly
Which one do you recommend?
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:26 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62nalide View Post
Which one do you recommend?
I opted for the BoostLeash boost by gear unit since im still M6 and will remain that way. So much flexibility with it. I can also get the regular head unit and then set up boost over time.

I currently am running it as a one speed with very low boost ramp rate dialed in and only have it set to 10psi on top of the springs so about 16psi. Now that it is summer i am actually getting good traction on my road course wheel/tire setup but i am also fighting a significant boost leak. I need to get under the car and see if a coupler came loose. The leak actually makes it even more controllable. Just wont hold more that about 8psi which puts me around 800whp.
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Old 06-21-2015, 01:34 PM   #35
camarossdusk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nighthawk89 View Post
Trust me. My girl has told me plenty of times that it isnt.. lol
your not the only lol
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Whipple running 13 lbs of boost, Innovators west 8 rib with 10 percent over drive crankshaft pulley. Fore level 2 Dual pump fuel system, with duel TI auto fuel pumps, ID 1300 fuel injectors, tuned on e85. Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft, 1400 hp half shafts, Detroit tru-trac. ls9 camshaft, CNC ported heads, with trunion and dual valve spring upgrade, LS9 head gaskets, ARP 2000 head studs, Manley stainless valves. Adjustable Bmr toe rods, trailing arms, rear adjustable sway bar, full cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, BMR diff. bushings, bmr driveshaft safety loop.
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Old 06-21-2015, 02:05 PM   #36
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I wouldnt want to make over 800.
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwijohn View Post
what other upgrades can i do to my engine .ive got a magnuson supercharger installed what more do i need to do .cam, head work any help will be appreciated
Well you cant really get to a 1000RWHP with a magnuson without nitrous. You typically would need about a 100 Shot to get there but the SOME of the upgrades you will need to get there and stay there are:

Heavy Duty Axles (GFORCE or DSS) (1500.00)
One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft (1000.00)
Triple Pump (like Fore Innovations) (2000.00)
Larger Injectors (like BOSCH 127) (1000.00)
Larger Fuel Rails and Crankcase Vent ( 500.00)
Dual or Triple Disk Clutch (2000.00)
Set of R888 tires or equivalent (2000.00)

As far as heads go, I would get a set of PORTED LS9 heads from GM and then let a good head porter work his magic on them. These heads cost 1800 dollars for the pair and a head porter will charge you 1000-1500 to do his thing on them. Also get a set of headers with 2 inch primaries and make sure the exhaust system is 3 inches all the way back. Get a cam that is designed for a boosted application. Brian Tooley and Dallas Performance both have good ones. You will need forged components for your block with the possible exception of the crank. Get a pair of LS9 head gaskets and use ARP head studs, arp rod bolts and arp fasteners as well on the bottom of the short block. MOST importantly, find a GREAT tuner!

With labor and parts, 1000RWHP is going to cost you AT LEAST 25K. As a comparison 750-800RWHP is MUCH MUCH less
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:49 AM   #38
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While I agree with the premise that you can get a bargain buying a modded out car, you have to be extremely careful when doing so, First off anyone that tells you a 850 RWHP car has 1200 HP at the engine simply doesn't know what they are talking about. That would be RED flag number ONE for me.

Second, a car coming from a area where they have been thousands of water damaged vehicles is a potential RED flag number TWO. Even in my area in Texas, with all the rain and flooding, you have to be more cautious .

The bottom line is unless you can independently verify the condition and actual performance of the vehicle you are looking to purchase, I personally would not consider the purchase of this type of vehicle. The vast majority of dealers will not purchase a modded out vehicle for this reason.

If you know someone that has personal knowledge of the vehicle and has seen it run and has independent documentation of it's condition then at least you can have some info to make an informed purchase decision.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:27 AM   #39
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1200 crank could be 850rwhp on a big stall auto. Big convertors eat up a bunch of power and don't dyno well.

As far as my earlier comment about 1000rwhp being easy, the motor/power adder part is easy. Tons of shops/places can do that, and it isn't that expensive. I do agree that getting the car to live there as far as driveline/rear/etc isn't cheap or easy, but it all depends on the OPs goals. 1000rwhp dyno to put in window at shows, always run street tires, don't race, you could get away with a lot without issues. I had a friend in Utah that did a 1000rwhp camaro, just took it to car shows and would just punch it on the highway every once in awhile. Won't break axles/etc if you never hook and he was just on basic tires. Yes the car was slow, pointless and silly, but it made him happy.


Buying a premodded car is the best/cheapest way as long as the car isn't just someone elses bucket of issues.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:29 AM   #40
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Don't get caught up in the numbers. It depends what you want to do with the car. I say forge it ( a must), get a fuel system ( a must ), add more boost and spray the heck out of it.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:21 AM   #41
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Most of the money will be on my fuel system and turbo parts. My play is going to run a $1,200 junkyard 6.0 and push it like everyone here 1000rwhp on 4.8, 5.3 6.0 is easy on E85. Won't last forever but man there's dozens holding no need to drop big money on built motors. My 6L80E will be swapped out to a TH400 the rear end will be a used 3.23 ZL1 rear end. No wear near $25k
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:45 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by 62nalide View Post
Most of the money will be on my fuel system and turbo parts. My play is going to run a $1,200 junkyard 6.0 and push it like everyone here 1000rwhp on 4.8, 5.3 6.0 is easy on E85. Won't last forever but man there's dozens holding no need to drop big money on built motors. My 6L80E will be swapped out to a TH400 the rear end will be a used 3.23 ZL1 rear end. No wear near $25k
Sounds like a great idea.
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