06-21-2015, 10:40 AM | #29 |
whippled 5th gen
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I was told my whipple would max out at 950 rwhp with a built motor, my previous car was a 880 rwhp 4th gen, turbo car, on the highest hp setting is not very easy to drive on street. my current 5th gen. is 651/658, and on m/t drag radials hooks good if on a good street, its a lot of fun, just saying be prepared reliability starts to drop at 900 rwhp and up.
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Whipple running 13 lbs of boost, Innovators west 8 rib with 10 percent over drive crankshaft pulley. Fore level 2 Dual pump fuel system, with duel TI auto fuel pumps, ID 1300 fuel injectors, tuned on e85. Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft, 1400 hp half shafts, Detroit tru-trac. ls9 camshaft, CNC ported heads, with trunion and dual valve spring upgrade, LS9 head gaskets, ARP 2000 head studs, Manley stainless valves. Adjustable Bmr toe rods, trailing arms, rear adjustable sway bar, full cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, BMR diff. bushings, bmr driveshaft safety loop.
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06-21-2015, 10:41 AM | #30 |
whippled 5th gen
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yes i agree it takes lots of money when get up that high in hp.
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Whipple running 13 lbs of boost, Innovators west 8 rib with 10 percent over drive crankshaft pulley. Fore level 2 Dual pump fuel system, with duel TI auto fuel pumps, ID 1300 fuel injectors, tuned on e85. Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft, 1400 hp half shafts, Detroit tru-trac. ls9 camshaft, CNC ported heads, with trunion and dual valve spring upgrade, LS9 head gaskets, ARP 2000 head studs, Manley stainless valves. Adjustable Bmr toe rods, trailing arms, rear adjustable sway bar, full cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, BMR diff. bushings, bmr driveshaft safety loop.
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06-21-2015, 10:44 AM | #31 |
Drives: All things Turbocharged Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,199
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1000hp is totally usable. Just only really usable over 80+mph on good tires. R888's or MT ET's.
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06-21-2015, 01:07 PM | #32 |
Caffeine Injected
Drives: 13 Ram - 05 Widebody 1050rwhp Vette Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Woodstock, Ga
Posts: 1,033
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Where is the op? A lot of good replies to his question?
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06-21-2015, 01:17 PM | #33 |
Drives: 2013 SS Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,102
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Which one do you recommend?
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06-21-2015, 01:26 PM | #34 |
USAF retired! Thank God!
Drives: 2011 1SS, 1LT red,1LT/RS SGM 98Z28 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Texas
Posts: 2,799
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I opted for the BoostLeash boost by gear unit since im still M6 and will remain that way. So much flexibility with it. I can also get the regular head unit and then set up boost over time.
I currently am running it as a one speed with very low boost ramp rate dialed in and only have it set to 10psi on top of the springs so about 16psi. Now that it is summer i am actually getting good traction on my road course wheel/tire setup but i am also fighting a significant boost leak. I need to get under the car and see if a coupler came loose. The leak actually makes it even more controllable. Just wont hold more that about 8psi which puts me around 800whp.
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HKE LSX427(Mast blk lbl 305 6bolt LS7heads, PatG231/246 blower cam, RWHP/TQ: 1281/1133 SNL Performance Custom Twin PT6766 BB turbos 4 to 25psi selectable on the Boost Leash controller, Squash dual 400LPH/ID2000s, ALKY 4 gal meth, Autometer AFR/Bst/oilpres/oiltemp/fuelpress gauges, Pedders Justice road crs pkg: All HD bushes, supercar 12kg coil overs, supercar ZL1 sways, camber plates all setup by JusticePete! :Gforce 9" 35spline S-Trac, 1500hp Outlaw axles, 3.5"alum DS, Monster Triple disc; 4xForgeline 19x10.5 4xBridgestone 305/30R19 RE-11, CTS-v calipers/rotors/Cobalt friction XR1/3 pads
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06-21-2015, 01:34 PM | #35 |
whippled 5th gen
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your not the only lol
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Whipple running 13 lbs of boost, Innovators west 8 rib with 10 percent over drive crankshaft pulley. Fore level 2 Dual pump fuel system, with duel TI auto fuel pumps, ID 1300 fuel injectors, tuned on e85. Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft, 1400 hp half shafts, Detroit tru-trac. ls9 camshaft, CNC ported heads, with trunion and dual valve spring upgrade, LS9 head gaskets, ARP 2000 head studs, Manley stainless valves. Adjustable Bmr toe rods, trailing arms, rear adjustable sway bar, full cradle bushings, upper control arm bushings, BMR diff. bushings, bmr driveshaft safety loop.
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06-21-2015, 02:05 PM | #36 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,014
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I wouldnt want to make over 800.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
06-21-2015, 07:21 PM | #37 | |
Drives: 2019 Camaro Z-28 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,482
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Quote:
Heavy Duty Axles (GFORCE or DSS) (1500.00) One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft (1000.00) Triple Pump (like Fore Innovations) (2000.00) Larger Injectors (like BOSCH 127) (1000.00) Larger Fuel Rails and Crankcase Vent ( 500.00) Dual or Triple Disk Clutch (2000.00) Set of R888 tires or equivalent (2000.00) As far as heads go, I would get a set of PORTED LS9 heads from GM and then let a good head porter work his magic on them. These heads cost 1800 dollars for the pair and a head porter will charge you 1000-1500 to do his thing on them. Also get a set of headers with 2 inch primaries and make sure the exhaust system is 3 inches all the way back. Get a cam that is designed for a boosted application. Brian Tooley and Dallas Performance both have good ones. You will need forged components for your block with the possible exception of the crank. Get a pair of LS9 head gaskets and use ARP head studs, arp rod bolts and arp fasteners as well on the bottom of the short block. MOST importantly, find a GREAT tuner! With labor and parts, 1000RWHP is going to cost you AT LEAST 25K. As a comparison 750-800RWHP is MUCH MUCH less
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2019 SS 1LE BIG NA A10 Eagles Canyon Raceway 2.7 CCW Below https://youtu.be/c9M5UHDftcA 4-15-23 at SCCA TT U1 Class MEGA Thread on THIS car: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602092 Retired Cars BELOW: 1973 Camaro, 1969 Camaro, 1969 Camaro SS RS 2010 Camaro SS with 1000HP F1R, 2019 ZL1 1LE A10 |
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06-22-2015, 06:49 AM | #38 |
Drives: 2019 Camaro Z-28 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,482
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While I agree with the premise that you can get a bargain buying a modded out car, you have to be extremely careful when doing so, First off anyone that tells you a 850 RWHP car has 1200 HP at the engine simply doesn't know what they are talking about. That would be RED flag number ONE for me.
Second, a car coming from a area where they have been thousands of water damaged vehicles is a potential RED flag number TWO. Even in my area in Texas, with all the rain and flooding, you have to be more cautious . The bottom line is unless you can independently verify the condition and actual performance of the vehicle you are looking to purchase, I personally would not consider the purchase of this type of vehicle. The vast majority of dealers will not purchase a modded out vehicle for this reason. If you know someone that has personal knowledge of the vehicle and has seen it run and has independent documentation of it's condition then at least you can have some info to make an informed purchase decision.
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2019 SS 1LE BIG NA A10 Eagles Canyon Raceway 2.7 CCW Below https://youtu.be/c9M5UHDftcA 4-15-23 at SCCA TT U1 Class MEGA Thread on THIS car: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602092 Retired Cars BELOW: 1973 Camaro, 1969 Camaro, 1969 Camaro SS RS 2010 Camaro SS with 1000HP F1R, 2019 ZL1 1LE A10 |
06-22-2015, 07:27 AM | #39 |
Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 5,712
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1200 crank could be 850rwhp on a big stall auto. Big convertors eat up a bunch of power and don't dyno well.
As far as my earlier comment about 1000rwhp being easy, the motor/power adder part is easy. Tons of shops/places can do that, and it isn't that expensive. I do agree that getting the car to live there as far as driveline/rear/etc isn't cheap or easy, but it all depends on the OPs goals. 1000rwhp dyno to put in window at shows, always run street tires, don't race, you could get away with a lot without issues. I had a friend in Utah that did a 1000rwhp camaro, just took it to car shows and would just punch it on the highway every once in awhile. Won't break axles/etc if you never hook and he was just on basic tires. Yes the car was slow, pointless and silly, but it made him happy. Buying a premodded car is the best/cheapest way as long as the car isn't just someone elses bucket of issues.
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Nick
Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp |
06-22-2015, 07:29 AM | #40 |
Drives: 2011 2ss blk/wht strp Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: south of houston
Posts: 446
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Don't get caught up in the numbers. It depends what you want to do with the car. I say forge it ( a must), get a fuel system ( a must ), add more boost and spray the heck out of it.
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06-22-2015, 08:21 AM | #41 |
Drives: 2013 SS Join Date: May 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 4,102
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Most of the money will be on my fuel system and turbo parts. My play is going to run a $1,200 junkyard 6.0 and push it like everyone here 1000rwhp on 4.8, 5.3 6.0 is easy on E85. Won't last forever but man there's dozens holding no need to drop big money on built motors. My 6L80E will be swapped out to a TH400 the rear end will be a used 3.23 ZL1 rear end. No wear near $25k
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06-22-2015, 08:45 AM | #42 | |
Drives: 2006 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 5,712
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Quote:
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Nick
Corvette Z06 -1200ish rwhp |
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