[Sledgehammer70]

Here is a quick guide on removing and installing the new ZL1/1LE say bars on a SS. I am still working to the get 1LE mag ride tune, and the rear suspension pieces.

[Kaizer_911]

Originally Posted by Sledgehammer70

Here is a quick guide on removing and installing the new ZL1/1LE say bars on a SS. I am still working to the get 1LE mag ride tune, and the rear suspension pieces.

Thanks for the video Matt!

Would you say doing this mod when/while changing the exhaust would be easier? Looking at doing the stainlessworks full exhaust on my Camaro.

[SS2017]

Very cool, thanks for the how to.

[Ventmaster]

Let's face it- not alot of specifics in this video. FYI to anyone resorting to BMR's installation instructions, they recommend tightening the bushing mount bolts to 35lb/ft for the front bar.

I believe that is a typo as when I just tried to tighten mine to that spec it snapped the mounting bolt right off the car. Previous mount bolt specs have been in the teens. I would suggest you find another source for this info or use your own judgement.

[Ventmaster]

Follow up- start with a 1/4" drill bit and move up to 5/16th's bit, if this happens to you it is fixable. Chevy probably will sell a new stud insert, but punching the old one out from under the car did not seem possible (I tried!) So I drilled it out and replaced with a 1" 10mm bolt with a 13mm flanged head to match the 13mm nut on the bottom that I had in the tool box.

You can drill out the "stud" (similar to a lug nut bolt) and carefully hold it in place as you thread thread the nut from the bottom side (IOW- contort your hand painfully to reach where ever you need to go!).

Be patient (lots of beer breaks) and lift each side of the suspension to align the end link bolt and all will be good!

Remember- have fun!

[locktyght]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Follow up- start with a 1/4" drill bit and move up to 5/16th's bit, if this happens to you it is fixable. Chevy probably will sell a new stud insert, but punching the old one out from under the car did not seem possible (I tried!) So I drilled it out and replaced with a 1" 10mm bolt with a 13mm head to match the 13mm nut on the bottom that I had in the tool box.

You can drill out the "stud" (similar to a lug nut bolt) and carefully hold it in place as you thread thread the nut from the bottom side (IOW- contort your hand painfully to reach where ever you need to go!).

Be patient (lots of beer breaks) and lift each side of the suspension to align the end link bolt and all will be good!

Remember- have fun!

I did the same! However, I was lucky enough to hammer it out.

1-Go buy a torch from bed bath and beyond, like a chef would use. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cake-bo...?skuId=4554886

2- apply heat to the head of the stud, take a tea light candle and place on it after its hot, this lets the wax seep into the crevices, and lubes it up.

3- hop under the car with a punch and hammer and knock it out.

4- replace with better fasteners than gm and carry on. I marked the head and the bolt side just to make sure ive not had any movement, and after multiple track days and autoX events, all is well.

[Ventmaster]

Well done Locktyght! I figured it was pressed in under heat and pressure.

If ever faced with a similar situation I'll try your method... went thru 2 drill bits my way! Not sure how you could apply heat to the head of the stud as mine was well contained/covered by the front end of the car but whatever works!

I used plenty of blue lock tight to minimize the chance of movement but will monitor from time to time.

Thanks for letting me know I'm not the only guy out here who had an issue with this!

[locktyght]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Well done Locktyght! I figured it was pressed in under heat and pressure.

If ever faced with a similar situation I'll try your method... went thru 2 drill bits my way! Not sure how you could apply heat to the head of the stud as mine was well contained/covered by the front end of the car but whatever works!

I used plenty of blue lock tight to minimize the chance of movement but will monitor from time to time.

Thanks for letting me know I'm not the only guy out here who had an issue with this!

That's why I got the tiny torch, I reached down from the top and put the torch tip right on the head.

I made a post in the suspension section about it back when. I did it hoping to prevent others from my pain, you must've missed it lol

[Ventmaster]

I've had time to drive the car now and should report this mod is well worth the trouble!

Car handles much flatter now and even though I know the limits of it's ability to turn has not really changed, the sense of control and composure is much greater- alot more enjoyable to drive now!

[Sledgehammer70]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

I've had time to drive the car now and should report this mod is well worth the trouble!

Car handles much flatter now and even though I know the limits of it's ability to turn has not really changed, the sense of control and composure is much greater- alot more enjoyable to drive now!

Should try the BMR Suspension, it’s even better

[Blade]

Can this be done with jacks and without taking the wheels off? Or do all the undercarriage aeros on the 2016 make it impossible without a lift and taking the wheels off?

[Blade]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Follow up- start with a 1/4" drill bit and move up to 5/16th's bit, if this happens to you it is fixable. Chevy probably will sell a new stud insert, but punching the old one out from under the car did not seem possible (I tried!) So I drilled it out and replaced with a 1" 10mm bolt with a 13mm flanged head to match the 13mm nut on the bottom that I had in the tool box.

You can drill out the "stud" (similar to a lug nut bolt) and carefully hold it in place as you thread thread the nut from the bottom side (IOW- contort your hand painfully to reach where ever you need to go!).

Be patient (lots of beer breaks) and lift each side of the suspension to align the end link bolt and all will be good!

Remember- have fun!

Errr......never mind....based on this, just gonna have the dealer do it since the car only has 5500 miles on it or so and still under warranty.

Thanks again for getting under the car Sledge and Vent.

Damn it SMH......I like doing my own work.

[94boosted]

The video mentions removing the front cradle. Is that really the front cradle? If so nothing is being supported after it's removed. Looks more like a brace/skid plate to me

[carguy55]

updating with GM install info that has correct torque values for GM hardware etc. This has more install info that just for sway bars and links so only use what you need

https://ecom-dam.ext.gm.com/parts/do...s_84401187.pdf