Orbital Scratch Removal Not Working...

[WiSSDiver]

Originally Posted by Dylan@SCG

Definitely something off, most likely in technique if you're getting ZERO improvement. I could understand not seeing full correction, but to see no change at all points to an issue somewhere in your approach. Not uncommon though - its amazing how even the most subtle changes to process when correcting paint can make the biggest impact.



There is no adjustment to be made to any mechanism when it comes to rotation. The rotation of the pad is essentially a byproduct of the orbital movement, enough downward pressure to slow the pads rotation is enough.

I find it easiest to diagnose things if I can see video of what you're doing. Shoot a quick cell phone camera video of you doing a complete pass and post it up for us. That will help a ton in getting to the bottom of the problem.

Agreed. Speed of arm movement may be the culprit not speed of machine. I believe you mentioned 1 minute in the approximately 2x2 area. Think more in terms of musical tempo instead of actual time. 8-16 bars instead of watching the clock over each cross hatch section pass.

Hope that gives you another perspective

[2014CamaroZL1]

Bump for the exciting conclusion !

[charlietuna]

Glad you got it sorted out. Now post some pics of the detail....

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by 2014CamaroZL1

Conclusion...
The root cause of the problem was the need for a more aggressive pad.
I used a yellow pad and made numerous passes and finally got some results.
I find it so surprising that the most aggressive pad and polish were needed to remove slight scratches that you could not feel.
Whew !


So...
I attempted several times to remove fine scratches using my Porter Cable and appropriate cutting pads and polishes.
Cars include my ZL1 and friends' GTI and C-Class.
I used the 2 Wolfgang products on my car and Menzerna 400 on the German cars.
Absolutely ZERO progress made in all instances.
PC turned up to 5 -6 and I am not leaning on it.
I tried different amounts of polish for different lengths of time and nothing.
I thought that maybe the PC was out of adjustment, but there appear to be no adjustments to make.
WTF am I doing wrong ??

There's one major issue. If you want the PC to work well, expect to put a good amount of pressure. Especially on a hard clear like GM's. You're not going to completely stop the pad but usually I aim for one rotation a second.

Your arms should feel sore after a full day of polishing until you get used to it.

[ihaveacamaro]

oh well nvm. Glad you got it figured out OP.

[DylanVK]

C'mon Roshan... keep up with the rest of us man!

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by Dylan@SCG

C'mon Roshan... keep up with the rest of us man!

not the forum stalker I used to be

[DylanVK]

Just a regular stalker now?

[2014CamaroZL1]

You input is still appreciated.
Some people say put pressure on it, some say don't.
I did a bit of both for my last test.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by 2014CamaroZL1

You input is still appreciated.
Some people say put pressure on it, some say don't.
I did a bit of both for my last test.

Let's be clear, don't listen to the people who say don't put pressure on it IF you are using a porter cable. If they say that, they don't know the first thing about anything buffer wise.

Using a porter cable to remove swirls without applying pressure is like using a condom with a hole in it. It just doesn't work.

[JTruck]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Let's be clear, don't listen to the people who say don't put pressure on it IF you are using a porter cable. If they say that, they don't know the first thing about anything buffer wise.

Using a porter cable to remove swirls without applying pressure is like using a condom with a hole in it. It just doesn't work.

Mmmm matters how talented you are.

[DylanVK]

Originally Posted by 2014CamaroZL1

You input is still appreciated.
Some people say put pressure on it, some say don't.
I did a bit of both for my last test.

You MUST apply pressure to do any correction with the PC, enough to slow the rotation of the pad to a slow crawl. No pressure = no correction. I like to have the rotation of the pad as I'm working be just about 2x as fast as a second hand on a clock.

[2014CamaroZL1]

What do you mean by "2x as fast as a second hand on a clock" ?
How may rpms is that ?
Someone mentioned targeting 1 rpm.

[DylanVK]

Well, if the second hand on a clock makes a full revolution every 60 seconds, or 1 rpm, I'm suggesting you allow the pad to rotate at roughly twice that speed, 1 revolution every 30 seconds or 2 rpm.

Thus 2 times as fast as the second hand on a clock.

Don't get too bogged down in matching specific RPM of the pad... its to give you a general idea of the speed at which the plate should be rotating. As you hit contours in panels the change in 'terrain' will cause the rotation to slow or stop in some cases.

The references to rotation speed are meant only as a guide to help you define appropriate pressure. Once you get a feel for it you should be able to polish without paying too much specific attention or counting revolutions as you go.