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Old 01-09-2014, 01:19 PM   #463
Doc
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Doc,

Mind if I ask why you'd go with the 21 lb battery over the 15 lb one?
The 15 is just slightly low on oomph. If I daily drove my car it would probably be ok but I don't so I have to put a float charger on it every couple of weeks. I'm thinking the 21 lb battery would hold better. The difference of 6 lbs would not be noticeable at all.

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Rear bushings = diff bushing in the back?
Yes

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Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
I think he's referring to the rear cradle bushings, but
Yes. I replaced the diff and cradle bushings at the same time and that made a world of difference in the car's behavior when accelerating and cornering.
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:10 PM   #464
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Well Doc it sure seems you have been keeping this car light. I got mine down to 3060 with me in it. I weighed 118lbs at the time, now I'm 124lbs. But I have removed the A/C until I can figure out how to mount the compressor since I can't mount it low like the Corvette accessories. I also weighed my old Tuned Port Injection at 45lbs with rails, injectors, tb etc. And then weighed my LS6 intake with rails, injectors, bolts, tb, etc at 13 lbs. No idea what all the A/C stuff weighed considering it is going back in after I figure out how to mount the compressor and fit it comfortably in the bay. So far the LS swap should be about 32 pounds lighter though.
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:10 AM   #465
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The 15 is just slightly low on oomph. If I daily drove my car it would probably be ok but I don't so I have to put a float charger on it every couple of weeks. I'm thinking the 21 lb battery would hold better. The difference of 6 lbs would not be noticeable at all.



Yes



Yes. I replaced the diff and cradle bushings at the same time and that made a world of difference in the car's behavior when accelerating and cornering.
Damn. Looks like I'll be switching to the 21 lb battery then.
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Old 01-11-2014, 10:58 PM   #466
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Doc, great build !!! Best execution on this forum.

I had been considering using truck scales to weight my car as you have done. I wanted to share what I found out about how accurate these devices are.

The most accurate scale I found is manufactured with a 0.5% accuracy. That is the accuracy it has at shipment to its buyer. In operation accuracy is up to the scale owner, but the manufacturer recommends it be field calibrated over its service life to be 1% accurate.

So for a 3,700 lbs car, when the scale is on the manufacturer's floor the best accuracy possible is plus or minus 18.5 lbs. This same scale in the field after its first recalibration for 1% would be accurate within plus or minus 37 lbs. This info is for one of the most expensive truck scales made in Switzerland and its not likely we'll be weighing in on one of these anyway.

The most accurate American built truck scale I found has 0.8% accuracy at build time. Its operational accuracy is recalibrated within 1.6%. The range for this scale new under a 3,700 lbs load is plus or minus 29.6 lbs. And after its first recal that goes up to plus or minus 59.2 lbs.

Lastly would be the "run of the mill" truck scale. Manufactured for 2% accuracy and recal'ed in the field to be within 4% accuracy. That works out to plus or minus 74 lbs under a 3,700 lbs load new and plus or minus 148 lbs after recal.

Whatever type of scale used to weigh on, going back to it after a recal is likely a whole new ballgame.

What I'm looking into now is finding a shop that is setup to measure and adjust a car's corner weights. Hoping to find more accuracy in going that route but I don't have anything collected on this as yet.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:47 AM   #467
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Originally Posted by 14pilot View Post
Doc, great build !!! Best execution on this forum.

I had been considering using truck scales to weight my car as you have done. I wanted to share what I found out about how accurate these devices are.

The most accurate scale I found is manufactured with a 0.5% accuracy. That is the accuracy it has at shipment to its buyer. In operation accuracy is up to the scale owner, but the manufacturer recommends it be field calibrated over its service life to be 1% accurate.

So for a 3,700 lbs car, when the scale is on the manufacturer's floor the best accuracy possible is plus or minus 18.5 lbs. This same scale in the field after its first recalibration for 1% would be accurate within plus or minus 37 lbs. This info is for one of the most expensive truck scales made in Switzerland and its not likely we'll be weighing in on one of these anyway.

The most accurate American built truck scale I found has 0.8% accuracy at build time. Its operational accuracy is recalibrated within 1.6%. The range for this scale new under a 3,700 lbs load is plus or minus 29.6 lbs. And after its first recal that goes up to plus or minus 59.2 lbs.

Lastly would be the "run of the mill" truck scale. Manufactured for 2% accuracy and recal'ed in the field to be within 4% accuracy. That works out to plus or minus 74 lbs under a 3,700 lbs load new and plus or minus 148 lbs after recal.

Whatever type of scale used to weigh on, going back to it after a recal is likely a whole new ballgame.

What I'm looking into now is finding a shop that is setup to measure and adjust a car's corner weights. Hoping to find more accuracy in going that route but I don't have anything collected on this as yet.
Thanks for the compliment! Man, I didn't realize there was that much variance on accuracy for a truck scale. The one I go to is right by an interstate freeway and gets used a lot so I'm guessing it's probably at the 4% range. Now that I know I guess I'll have to find a place here locally that does corner balancing and be able to give a more accurate weight. Thanks for the info!
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:20 PM   #468
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Man,
Really nice build!!!
I want to do the same with mine!!!
ahnnn...by the way...i was trying to find in your post the weight of the RX Catch-Can kit...do you know the numbers?

Thanks,
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:10 PM   #469
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Man,
Really nice build!!!
I want to do the same with mine!!!
ahnnn...by the way...i was trying to find in your post the weight of the RX Catch-Can kit...do you know the numbers?

Thanks,
Henrique Adams
Thanks for the compliments! You know I don't think I ever actually weighed the catch can if you can believe it lol. I don't know why; I weighed practically everything else! With the bracket and everything I'm guessing maybe 5 lbs; it isn't very heavy.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:35 AM   #470
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The 15 is just slightly low on oomph. If I daily drove my car it would probably be ok but I don't so I have to put a float charger on it every couple of weeks. I'm thinking the 21 lb battery would hold better. The difference of 6 lbs would not be noticeable at all.
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Damn. Looks like I'll be switching to the 21 lb battery then.
Do you have a link to said battery? I know I've seen it in here, but I don't want to sort through 19 pages
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:32 PM   #471
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So did you move over to a 21 lb battery how is it doing?

I have a 15 lb sitting on the bench here but tracks aren't open.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:48 PM   #472
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Do you have a link to said battery? I know I've seen it in here, but I don't want to sort through 19 pages
Here's the link from Braille's factory page:

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....ightweight_agm

You could try the 17 lb B2317RP which is the same list price as the 15 lb and offers 1191 cranking amps instead of the 15 lb's 1067 ca if you wanted to go a few lbs lighter than the 21. The 21 lb B3121 lists for $32 more but offers 1380 cranking amps.

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So did you move over to a 21 lb battery how is it doing?

I have a 15 lb sitting on the bench here but tracks aren't open.
I still have the 15 lb battery installed. Whenever it needs replacing I'll replace it with a 21 lb at that time. Like I said, I put a float charger on it every couple of weeks just to keep it charged up because I don't daily drive mine. If you daily drive it the 15 or 17 lb battery would probably stay charged and work just fine.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:59 AM   #473
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Originally Posted by Doc View Post
Here's the link from Braille's factory page:

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....ightweight_agm

You could try the 17 lb B2317RP which is the same list price as the 15 lb and offers 1191 cranking amps instead of the 15 lb's 1067 ca if you wanted to go a few lbs lighter than the 21. The 21 lb B3121 lists for $32 more but offers 1380 cranking amps.



I still have the 15 lb battery installed. Whenever it needs replacing I'll replace it with a 21 lb at that time. Like I said, I put a float charger on it every couple of weeks just to keep it charged up because I don't daily drive mine. If you daily drive it the 15 or 17 lb battery would probably stay charged and work just fine.
Thanks!

I'm debating on which route to go. I no longer daily mine, I drive it on the weekends and sometimes on Friday. I don't have a float charger that I can use, so I'm thinking of going the 21 lb route.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:56 AM   #474
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just read through this whole thread. awesome build. LOVE all the weight savings.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:17 PM   #475
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I know this is an old thread but, why not replace the trunk and hood with CF or Fiberglass? Also you might be able to run airbags for suspension. Rear seat delete too maybe? Not sure though.
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Old 09-16-2014, 02:40 PM   #476
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Any new update doc , car looks awsome
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