How Safe is the PC-7424XP for Newbies?

[LS3SSRS]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Understand what I'm going to say as tough love. If it honestly seems like a lot of steps or products, then you truly don't understand the process within the videos I've posted. It is as simple as:

• Clay the car.
• Swirl & Haze Remover.
• Fine Machine Polish.
• Wax of your choice.

It is that simple. Adam's doesn't have 50 polishes to choose from, nor are there 20 different pads. Adam's has 3 different polishes, 2 of which are used in the process above. There are 3 different waxes to choose from and that will depend on the type of protection you want. If you take the time to watch my videos AND read the accompanying text, you too will have a complete understanding of how this is done. This stuff is NOT miracle polish in a bottle and there is some WORK involved. All you have to do is follow my lead. Of all the different systems that I have tried, there is none that are simpler. You will find that pretty much all of the professional lines of products work, but I know of none that are more user friendly and are as easy to grasp.

With that said, exactly what questions do you have about the process? Remember, there are no stupid questions and at least you have the balls to ask. Your questions could help those who are afraid to ask because of perception. I am all ears.

thanks for clearing this up for me. those 4 steps was all i was after, i was confused about polishing as i have never done that step before.

[Gloss-it]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

Understand what I'm going to say as tough love. If it honestly seems like a lot of steps or products, then you truly don't understand the process within the videos I've posted. It is as simple as:
You will find that pretty much all of the professional lines of products work, but I know of none that are more user friendly and are as easy to grasp.

With that said, exactly what questions do you have about the process? Remember, there are no stupid questions and at least you have the balls to ask. Your questions could help those who are afraid to ask because of perception. I am all ears.

I agree with Junkman. There are no miracle polishes or products that will do all the work. Application and Technique are important along with dedication and patience to learn the art of proper paint correction & polishing.

The common thread between professionals & car enthusiasts is that we all aim for removing not hiding the paint imperfections in a safe manner with the least amount of steps and maintaining the integrity of the paint years to come.

Gloss-it has worked hard to develop detail products & paint correction / polishing systems that are user friendly and will yield a paint finish that is truly awesome and eye dropping.

The 7424 polisher is not what is dangerous as much as the choice in the pad ( foam / wool ) and the cutting polish, speed and technique you choose. This can be confusing to say the least as Junkman has said the more choices in polishes & pads the more confusing. Well I can say yes and no. In todays paint finish's is becoming more complicated with different hardness in clear coats. This has required a different approach in finding the pad and right product combination.

Gloss-it has produced a couple videos explaining how to establish a test panel first selecting the least aggressive pad and product combination before stepping up to a more aggressive plan of action.

The compound / polish has a mechanical cut as much as the product / polish. I spent a couple years studying foam /wools learning how they can make or break any polish on the market. So pad selection is very important to obtaining the best paint finish possible. In some cases just changing the pad not the polish can yield true paint correction results in return using only one polish and maybe two pads.

Gloss-it manufactures on own foam/wool pads. I have tested many of the US foam's and German foams to find out that a foam is not just foam. The industry has established colors to determine the amount of cut / polish / final finish the pad offers. The softer the pad the less cut. The harder the pad the more cut. Also the pads can be open cell or closed cell. Open cell foam will not generate as much heat offering less cut but can be used with a more aggressive polish offering the right amount of cut for the paint imperfection. This can also go the other way use a closed cell foam which generates a lot more heat offering more cut and a finishing polish which is not very aggressive, again giving the right amount of cut to correct the scratches & swirls. There are some many options for establishing the right paint correction plan for your finish!

I will try to keep this simple! Gloss-it has been in the game about 4 years selling detail product & polishing systems but has been detailing & correcting paint for 20 years. We had to create a line of products in our shop because buying 20 different products from 20 different companies was way to confusing and not productive for running a successful & efficient operation.

In closing. The machine will only be potentially dangerous depending on the plan of action you choose in the speed, polishes /compound, technique and pad choice.

I hope this helps give a better understanding to machine polishing!

My 2 cents

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by Gloss-it

In closing. The machine will only be potentially dangerous depending on the plan of action you choose in the speed, polishes /compound, technique and pad choice.

EXACTLY!

Not to pick on Meguiar's because I like their professional products but they have some brutal polishes out there. To the seasoned detailer, brutal is NOT the word they would use to describe any of Meguiar's pro-line. They would call them effective. I 100% agree. However, in the hands of a novice, brutal would be more appropriate. A Formula 1 race car in the hands of a teen with a learner's permit is brutal, but in the hands of Mario Andretti, it's a first place finish waiting to happen. This is why I like the KISS method when it comes to detailing. For those of you with no military experience, that "keep it simple stupid".

It always worked for us Marines.

[promod55]

Hey junkman hold the newspaper up there and show them how you can read it in the shine.That is a true adams shine.No shine better or easier.

[FirstLSK]

Junkman,

Quick question -- do you use the California Duster to remove dust from the side of your car as well? If so, what's the technique? Can't be the same because the strings won't hang the same way.


Sorry if this has already been asked, but I didn't find it while looking.




.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by FirstLSK

Junkman,

Quick question -- do you use the California Duster to remove dust from the side of your car as well? If so, what's the technique? Can't be the same because the strings won't hang the same way.


Sorry if this has already been asked, but I didn't find it while looking.




.

In the videos, I show how I do that on the back of the car which is vertical. It is basically the same technique, only with a sweeping motion where the strings are still barely touching the car. It takes more sweeps to do the vertical panels.

[FirstLSK]

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

In the videos, I show how I do that on the back of the car which is vertical. It is basically the same technique, only with a sweeping motion where the strings are still barely touching the car. It takes more sweeps to do the vertical panels.

Thanks Junkman. I will have to go back and rewatch. As you have said before -- you won't catch everything the first time you watch.

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by FirstLSK

Thanks Junkman. I will have to go back and rewatch. As you have said before -- you won't catch everything the first time you watch.

It's a trait that we as humans all share.

[garcmol]

I got the swirl/haze remover and revive polish hand polishing kit yesturday from Adam's (via FedEx) and WOW. I'm using my son's beater 91 Blazer, which is black, and it is in sorry shape. I've done one section of the hood and it's amazing. It is beat up and was repainted black, but, in true test form, I did the following:

Took 1500 grit sandpaper followed by 2000 and worked on a scratch (not according to video from Junkman, lol)

took the 2 sided applicator (orange/blue) and went to work with swirl/haze remover

Kept on it and pushed hard intentionally going one direction (no rotating the hand)

Put a gob of swirl haze on the windshield and trim and let it sit.

Temp outside is 52 degrees.

Wiped off and (this stuff is amazing) Now, not perfect because it is a beater, but no white residue blowing all over the car and stuck everywhere and what a shine.

Yes, pictures are coming!

Thanks Junkman! p.s. there was no clay used!

[garcmol]

Once it was polished, the camera did not want to focus on the car anymore! Awesome stuff

I have no fear of using the machine or touching my Camaro now

[Junkman2008]

Now here's an important point. You were impressed by your results and you somewhat did it wrong! Thus, imagine the results I could have gotten doing it correctly combined with my experience! Talk about shock and awe...

Here's the deal. The clay process cannot be skipped. It takes the shine that you have discovered under all that gunk to a whole new level. Claying lays the foundation for depth and reflection. You cannot skip this step if you want to maximize the shine.

Since you did yours by hand, you see just how much work is was to get that spot to shine. It wasn't a cake walk. However, using the PC will get you the desired results much faster. You will always follow the Swirl & Haze Remover (SHR) with the Fine Machine Polish as the latter will undo the damage caused by the orange pad and SHR.

I definitely do not recommend anyone who does not have any experience with sandpaper to even think about picking up some 1500 grit and taking it to their Camaro. That's a "hole in the paint down to the primer" waiting to happen, and it will happen fast. You obviously have some experience with it to get away with that. I actually cover this in my wet sanding series. Another thing, SHR will NOT completely remove all those wet sanding marks. Some small damage will remain when trying to remove it with the PC. I tell folks as a rule, never go below 2500 when using the PC and SHR. That's pretty much the limit for those two. I have to break out a different polish and more aggressive polisher when going below that.

Overall, you have witnessed that the product works as advertised and your results will continue to improve as you get more familiar with it and develop your technique. Very impressive first time run. The next thing we'll see is you making videos!

Now we need to get you to start using some REAL microfiber towel! The ones in your picture are made in China and they are brutal to your paint!

[garcmol]

Thanks. I deliberately skipped clay just to see what would happen. Testing if you will. I WILL NEVER touch the Camaro with sandpaper!!!! I've watched your wetsanding videos and deliberately violated everything you instructed to do. You are correct, there is still a little haze from the sandpaper, but I'm so impressed that the results were BY HAND.
Awesome stuff. I'll leave the videos to you my friend! I look forward to seeing you in April, and yes I need new (real) microfiber towels!

[Junkman2008]

I'm looking forward to the get together.

[NAHURRY]

Hey Junk, Got a question for ya...Why do you use a carnauba over a sealant?
I mean, I think we both agree that a sealant will outlast a nuba by a long shot, and most are very easy to use...Also, why do you think nuba's are so much more expensive(Profesional line)over sealant's.

Example: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-sealants.html


Carnauba Waxes:

$10-$15: Meguiar's M26 Yellow Tech Wax, Collinite 845, Optimum Car Wax

$15-$20: Natty's Blue, Natty's Red, Clearkote Carnauba Moose Wax, Collinite 476, Harly Wax, S100

$20-$30: Collinite 915, DP Max Wax

$30-$40: Lusso Oro, P21S

$40-$50: Pinnacle Signature, P21S 100%, Victoria Concours Red

$50-$60: Blackfire Midnight Sun, Chemical Guys 50/50, Chemical Guys Pete's '53, Wet Obsession

$60-$75: Dodo Juices

$75-$100: Pinnacle Souveran, Rubbish Boys' Original Edition

$100-$125: Dodo Juice Supernatural, Zymol Glasur

$125-$150: Swissvax Saphir, Swissvax Zuffenhausen

$150-$200: Wolfgang Fuzion, Zymol Concours

$200-$250: Swissvax Concorso/Best of Show/Smaragd

$250+: You must have very deep pockets!


Synthetic Sealants:

$10-$15: DuraGloss 105, Mother's FX SynWax, Jeff Werkstatt's Acrylic Jet Trigger, Zaino Z-2 Pro

$15-$20: Meguiar's NXT, Mother's Relections, Finish Kare Hi Temp Synthetic Paste Wax (1000p), 1Z Glanz Wax, Jeff Werkstatt's Acrylic Jet, Poorboy's EX-P, Zaino Z-5 Pro, Ultima Paint Guard Plus (4 oz.)

$20-$30: Blackfire Wet Diamond, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, Opti-Seal (8 oz.), Meguiar's M21 Synthetic Sealant

$30-$40: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, Menzerna FMJ, Chemical Guys Jet Seal, Four Star Ultimate Paint Protection

$40+: Why is it we are willing to pay so much more for a carnauba wax than a synthetic sealant?


Cleaner Waxes

$5-$10: Meguiar's ColorX, Meguiar's Cleaner Wax, Mother's Carnauba Cleaner Wax

$10-$15: DuraGloss 501, AutoGlym Super Resin Polish

$15-$20: Optimum Poli-Seal, Jeff's Werkstatt Prime

$20-$30: Meguiar's M20 Polymer Sealant, Klasse All-in-One, Zaino Z-AIO, Jeff's Werkstatt Prime (Acrylic, Carnauba, Strong), M66 Quick Detailer Polish (gallon)

$30-$40: Meguiar's D151 Paint Reconditioning Creme (gallon)