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Old 02-24-2014, 11:22 AM   #1
Ray@RDS
 
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RDS blower Plates for the LSA and LS9


We have proved the gains on our Maggie max packages for the various 112/122/1900/and 2300 Eaton based blowers
Removing Heat soak from the LSA and LS9 style blowers will also net more hp!

Just wrapping up the NEW RDS LSA/LS9 blower plates.

dyno testing will commence soon..


Last edited by Ray@RDS; 05-14-2014 at 06:09 PM. Reason: add video
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:04 PM   #2
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Excellent. Let me know if you need a test car for a ZL1. I met you last Summer at Har Mar. Is that a phenolic plastic? Also, what's the price and IAT2 temp drops?
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:50 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx View Post
Excellent. Let me know if you need a test car for a ZL1. I met you last Summer at Har Mar. Is that a phenolic plastic? Also, what's the price and IAT2 temp drops?
Phenolic it is! That's the key higher the grade higher the isolation.
I remember, your ride is one of the reasons I finished developing these!
Already have one going on an orange beast, would love to compare them on the dyno this spring, welcome to bring your ride by the shop. We can talk about install and tuning it in the dyno.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:41 AM   #4
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Could you elaborate more on what this mod does. I have a short list of things I want to do to my car and if this will reduce heat or increase hp Id like to know how or why it's does.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:14 PM   #5
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Could you elaborate more on what this mod does. I have a short list of things I want to do to my car and if this will reduce heat or increase hp Id like to know how or why it's does.
Thanks in advance.
Isolating the blower assembly from the engine allows the intercooler to function more effectively, By placing phenolic in between removes a majority of the heat soak. The intake air temps are greatly reduced keeping timing in place while under boost.
Keeping them is always a good thing.
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Old 02-25-2014, 04:48 PM   #6
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$$$?
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:03 PM   #7
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I can see how this product would help in situations where short periods of boost are used but I know from first hand experience road racing my car that if you stay in the throttle at all the supercharger spinning at 20,000+ rpms becomes the hottest item under the hood. In that case you may want some heat transfered to the motor and this item would not help.
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Old 02-25-2014, 07:31 PM   #8
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I have an entire day on the dyno @ Dallas performance that says different, as long as air is passing thru, heat soak is not the issue. When the engine stops it heats up, that's natural heat rises. Start the engine open the throttle blade, it starts to cool down.btw I live in MN drove my Camaro down last summer 1/4 mile tested Texas motor plex, then dyno pulled the entire weekend drove it back. Stay tuned ! Another major magazine has picked up this for another feature article. I also helped create that 102 TPIS tb you are running... I e it was me and a few guys collaborating it's creation, I still currently run the first ones, boys in UAE RUN THE FISRT FEW.my lsx 427 was the first to break 700 to the wheels in a bus back in 08, 62/90/112/122/1900/2300 and I go way back
They do work, may not be a cure all, we both know every little bit helps to have fun .
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray@RDS View Post
I have an entire day on the dyno @ Dallas performance that says different, as long as air is passing thru, heat soak is not the issue. When the engine stops it heats up, that's natural heat rises. Start the engine open the throttle blade, it starts to cool down.btw I live in MN drove my Camaro down last summer 1/4 mile tested Texas motor plex, then dyno pulled the entire weekend drove it back. Stay tuned ! Another major magazine has picked up this for another feature article. I also helped create that 102 TPIS tb you are running... I e it was me and a few guys collaborating it's creation, I still currently run the first ones, boys in UAE RUN THE FISRT FEW.my lsx 427 was the first to break 700 to the wheels in a bus back in 08, 62/90/112/122/1900/2300 and I go way back
They do work, may not be a cure all, we both know every little bit helps to have fun .
Dyno and real life are completely different.
I think a little wik down the 1320 it will help. Road course/ auto cross probably not.
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray@RDS View Post
I have an entire day on the dyno @ Dallas performance that says different, as long as air is passing thru, heat soak is not the issue. When the engine stops it heats up, that's natural heat rises. Start the engine open the throttle blade, it starts to cool down.btw I live in MN drove my Camaro down last summer 1/4 mile tested Texas motor plex, then dyno pulled the entire weekend drove it back. Stay tuned ! Another major magazine has picked up this for another feature article. I also helped create that 102 TPIS tb you are running... I e it was me and a few guys collaborating it's creation, I still currently run the first ones, boys in UAE RUN THE FISRT FEW.my lsx 427 was the first to break 700 to the wheels in a bus back in 08, 62/90/112/122/1900/2300 and I go way back
They do work, may not be a cure all, we both know every little bit helps to have fun .
Well I have boiled every drop of coolant out of my supercharger system more than once making laps on a road racing course in 90+ ambient and that water does not boil coming through the brick when the engine is off.

On a hot day I can take any ZL1 that has not had an extreme supercharger coolant system upgrade, put in my obd bluetooth and read IAT 2 and within 8 minutes (I'm being conservative) of flat out road racing show timing pull from excess supercharger heat, while all of the block oil and water temps will be fine. If you see temps going down when you open the throttle blade then you are not running long enough on the dyno at high enough rpms and boost to generate the supercharger heat. Most dynos don't have near enough fans to keep anything cool so the engine coolant may over heat before you see the supercharger heat. With real air moving over the car, the supercharger water overheats way before the engine water. I think you need to test somewhere where you actually make boost besides a dyno. Not cruising down the interstate and not in a 12 second 1/4 mile pass.

I have actually got IAT2 so hot it shut the engine off. That was before I had anything to monitor it and I had to read the code once the car shut down. This does not happen from "heat sink" it happens from blower heat generated with sustained boost. So once again, I think your spacer will help if you are doing short bursts of throttle like in a drag race or a dyno run but in real world road racing it may actually trap heat in the supercharger that otherwise might be dissipated in the engine coolant systems.

On the other hand you did a really good job with the throttle body, thanks.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:05 AM   #11
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I can see this helping with staging lanes. Far too often, if the line is long, i shut the car down. When fire back up, the IAT2s have climbed 20+ degrees.
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Old 02-26-2014, 08:20 AM   #12
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I also think that on a road course everything gets hot within a few minutes. Might slow it down a bit though. But the supercharger heat doesn't come from transfer out of the heads. It comes from the compression of the air. That compression still is going to heat up the air, that's just simple physics. I think this mod essentially gives you longer runners and therefore may move you torque curve a bit. And since you're compressing the air into a larger volume (bigger runner) it might not generate quite as much heat.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray@RDS View Post
Isolating the blower assembly from the engine allows the intercooler to function more effectively, By placing phenolic in between removes a majority of the heat soak. The intake air temps are greatly reduced keeping timing in place while under boost.
Keeping them is always a good thing.

Ok, thank you one more stupid question. I assume that this will raise the height of the blower. Will there be any clearance issues, rather will the hood close without modification?
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:00 AM   #14
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Ok, thank you one more stupid question. I assume that this will raise the height of the blower. Will there be any clearance issues, rather will the hood close without modification?
no mods should be required. bolt and go is the plan
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