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Old 02-17-2012, 12:03 AM   #1
Nessal


 
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My Hurst Billet Plus 2 review..

So last week I bought the Hurst Plus 2 shifter from AutoAgenda on this forum. Let me say that I got my shifter very promptly! I'm not going to post any install videos because Hurst has a decent one. But I would like to share my experience with the shifter having commuted almost 5 days with it. Also I want to share some things that I would do differently than the Hurst video.

****Driving Experience*****

So to start off, the throw on this shifter is SUPER SHORT. To be honest, I feel that it is a bit TOO short for our troubled TR6060. Now noticed that I limit it to our cars specifically because I have driven cars with shorter aftermarket shifters than this but they were in a S2000 or Miata. But then again, those transmissions are not as clunky and "clumsy" as ours. All in my own opinion of course. Compared to the factory shifter, the HBP2 shifter has a more "tactile" click when going into gear and requires much more force. The side to side throw is the same as factory. The only thing that I felt that was shorter were the front to back throws. I noticed that I can downshift and upshift MUCH faster now when driving spiritedly. That's definitely a good thing!

Now if there is one thing that I want people to know before buying the shifter is that if you are already having grinding problems or trouble going into second gear in the cold, I can see this shifter causing you MORE trouble. If you got trouble with 2nd gear syncro meshing correctly, this will not help. Ever since the first day that I installed it, I noticed that on a cold start, I had to double clutch going into second or else the shifter will NOT want to go in AT ALL. But if you double clutch, it slides in SOOOO much smoother...even smoother than when the transmission is warmed up. However, once the transmission is warmed up, it works fine. Now I'm not sure if I'm the only person that this is happening to, but my car does suffer from the second gear grind like most people but does get better once warmed up. But as long as I double clutch it for the first 2-3 minutes of driving, it's not a problem.

Another thing that I had to do was to use the OEM shift knob. The hurst shift knob rattled like CRAZYYYY and I could hear a whooshing sound at low speed. Once I used the OEM knob, it all went away. The reason is because the OEM knob is a lot heavier than the plastic Hurst knob. It helps dampen the noise better. I was kind of bummed out but I'll live.

***Installation***

Installation is quite simple as long as you lay out all the tool the night before you do the install. One thing that I feel you ABSOLUTELY NEED is a 3/8" drive swivel joint. I don't know how it is possible to do it without one since the exhaust pipes are directly in the way. If by chance you are doing your exhaust at the same time, install the shifter after you drop the pipes. The install will take you literally 15 minutes when the pipes are gone. The directions from Hurst does not say that you need a swivel joint, but trust me...it makes it MUCH easier.

Second, in the hurst video, when they were removing the C clips off the shifter stick, they used a long flathead to just pop them off. DO NOT DO THIS. I REPEAT, DO NOT DO THIS AS THE CLIP MAY POSSIBLY FLY OFF AND YOU'LL SPEND A DAY AND A HALF LOOKING FOR THIS CLIP. ASK ME HOW I KNOW! GM DOES NOT SELL THIS CLIP. TRUST ME, I TRIED. NEITHER DOES GMPARTSHOUSE OR MGW. As far as I know, no one sells this clip. So make DAMN SURE you don't lose it. So instead of using a long screwdriver to pop it off, USE YOUR HANDS. After you get them off, put them in a ziplock bag and put them somewhere safe. YOU DO NOT WANT TO LOSE THOSE C CLIPS.

Third, in the Hurst video, they installed the shift knob first, and then the boot over it. I recommend that you install the boot onto the knob FIRST. It makes it easier to get on and align the boot to the knob.

Fourth, most people have a REALLY hard time getting the rubber boot cover back on that covers the shifter assembly. I actually didn't have a hard time. My technique is to work AROUND the rim of the boot in a clockwise direction. So in other words, I get the boot on at the 1 o'clock position. Then I get the boot on at the 3 o'clock position, then to 6, then to 9, then fully sealed. Another thing that helped once I got to the 6 o'clock position and beyond was to push the boot slack with my palm to allow me to more easily pull the boot over the lip in the other positions. I felt that installing the shifter was more of a pain than the boot.


Overall I am really pleased with the quality of the kit. It is ABSOLUTELY TOP NOTCH. The driving experience is much more pleasant and doesn't feel like I'm rowing a damn boat. The shifts are tactile and audible which I actually prefer. Overall, for the price...I say it was damn worth it! Thanks AutoAgenda for the great price and fast shipping!
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:07 AM   #2
PAUL SS
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To remove the clips I used a long handle screwdriver and a retreival magnet with a long handle. Both clips stuck to the magnet.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:28 PM   #3
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explained perfectly.. i put my shifter in twice. after the second time i put it in i wish i had never removed it, it has that rattle sound now from the bushings getting a little damaged. the first time i had it in the rattle was hardly there
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:36 PM   #4
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My Hurst Shifter Review

I feel your pain Nassel. I installed my Hurst short throw and it was more difficult then I thought. I have recommendations and also have a problem. I would like to say that undercarraige where the shifter sits under the car is very difficult to get to. If it was'nt from the exhaust pipes, axle and heating shield it would not be difficult.:(
So first recommendations, When removing the clips on the shifter, I used needle nose pliers. It works great. That way there is no losing the clips.
Secondly, on the extension. I thought the longer the better. I brought a 10". I was meeting at the same spot as the exhaust. Returned to store and picked up an 8" extension and it worked perfect. It fitted between the heating shield and exhaust.
Third, the boot covering base of shifter is easy to remove. But, returning is a son of a gun. So, when your finished take a tea break before returning the cover. It was the most difficult. It has to sit perfectly in-line.
Those where my recommendation to basic level installers.

Now the problem.
I'm very embarrased to tell. Well here we go. While removing one of the bolts that hold the shifter, I broke off the head of the bolt. I did this by initially turning the bolt the wrong way. Again, I'm very embarrassed. Now, I currently have one bolt holding the base of the shifter. What will have to do to fix this? I need !!!!!!!!
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mik3_SS View Post
explained perfectly.. i put my shifter in twice. after the second time i put it in i wish i had never removed it, it has that rattle sound now from the bushings getting a little damaged. the first time i had it in the rattle was hardly there


Hey Mike, might I ask how you damaged the bushing?
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:34 PM   #6
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Thanks for the write up, took note of some good tips to remember for when I install mine!
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:58 AM   #7
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Did you install the anti vibration / rattle kit? Where all did you put the Dynamat if you did? The instructions that I have almost make it sounds like you put Dynamat around the rod that the C Clips clip on to, but to me that seems like it would make the shifter bind up.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctk1 View Post
Did you install the anti vibration / rattle kit? Where all did you put the Dynamat if you did? The instructions that I have almost make it sounds like you put Dynamat around the rod that the C Clips clip on to, but to me that seems like it would make the shifter bind up.


I will have pictures up tomorrow and review of the rattle kit results.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:37 PM   #9
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessal View Post
I will have pictures up tomorrow and review of the rattle kit results.
That would be great! I'll be checking back in!
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:38 PM   #11
Nessal


 
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208714

Dynomat install for those of you interested in this thread.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:35 AM   #12
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I just wanted to thank Nessal for this post and also his post about installing the Dynamat. They helped me tremendously and made my install alot easier. Members like him are why I love this forum!
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:37 PM   #13
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Hey MiK3_ss like the BLUE bowtie. Is it vinal or painted.
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Old 03-15-2012, 04:44 PM   #14
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I think the PLUS TWO in HURST PLUS TWO stands for the two hex screws that connect the shift lever to the upper stick atachment thus the wobbel from left to right like stock.
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