[McBrayer]

I got this completed about 2 months ago and have never got around to posting anything about it. None of the plumbing is visible when the front bumper is back on.

The HX coolant in the ADM reservoir was running 44 degrees on an 84 degree day. I did not get a chance to check the actual IATs before the weather turn cooler here. Currently running with the factory HX blocked off with rubber sheeting.

The mod list:
Kooks 1 7/8" LTs
Full cat delete
Borla 3" with NPP
18% lower on ATI balancer
ADM HX reservoir kit
K&N C/F CAI
Killer Chiller with Race Pack

[IneedAZ]

Nice, curious to see some results when you get warm weather again.

[kttxz06]

Looks sick.

[Snowblind]

Really interested in your results, looks great too.

[djfury05]

Every major shop/tuner I've talked to about this says there's no gain to be had with back to back WOT runs and even at the end of a single long WOT run the results are neglible. I researched for awhile on it. Hopefully you are the exception. I don't care what idle or cruise IATs are just under heavy acceleration where it matters.

[McBrayer]

I do go to the drag strip from time to time, but I didn't do the install so much for that or doing back to back to back runs.

My car is mostly a street driven car. My goal was to reduce the IATs in the summer months. Anytime the HX coolant is cooler than the ambient temperature your IATs will be lower, period. This all leads to the ECM pulling less timing!

I ran a Killer Chiller setup on a supercharger 2013 Ford Raptor. It made a HUGE difference in the summer.

One potential problem is that most turners forget to make sure that the A/C compressor does not shut off at WOT. "Most" tuners will go in a make sure the compressor is disabled during WOT operation to free up some horsepower. In the summer months, the parasitic lose of the A/C compressor out weights the lost power due to time reduction at high IATs.

[NicD]

Originally Posted by djfury05

Every major shop/tuner I've talked to about this says there's no gain to be had with back to back WOT runs and even at the end of a single long WOT run the results are neglible. I researched for awhile on it. Hopefully you are the exception. I don't care what idle or cruise IATs are just under heavy acceleration where it matters.

Well that would be a strange thing to say since running ice in an ice tank gives basically the same end result and those certainly help at the drag strip or on the street anyways. During extended load on a road race track it's going to peter out pretty quickly so that would be a different scenario for what it's intended however.

[Elite Engineering]

djfury05,


Not sure what shops your talking to, but these if installed with the heat exchanger bypass are 30 whp on a bone stock back to back dyno run (the Australian FI Interchiller, or the domestic AI chiller both have all of those options and are proven on the dyno and the track with as much as 3 tenths improvement, so look at these actual examples to see first hand). I don't know about the killer chiller as it is pretty basic compared to the other two, but cooler intake air charge has more room for oxygen molecules, the more oxygen the more fuel can be burned, the more fuel can be burned the more power produced. These have been proven in both drag racing and the road racers using the 12V DC compressor's in the trunk for extended WOT operation for years. As the ice in the tank guys can also attest to, it has been used for decades and heads-up and pro-mod still use ice today. The problem with ice is the mess, the cost, the hassle, and the weight it add's. These when the correct system is installed and done correctly are hands down great in so many way's.


https://fiinterchillers.com/


Cheers!!

[djfury05]

Exactly what I said.. Good for ONE WOT pull and pointless afterwards until everything cools down.

[Daves1SS]

I’ve got one on my car and I wrote the instruction manual on killer chiller’s website for the 6 gen SS. It works wonders in the summer for a DD car that sees heavy traffic. Makes the car feel as fast in 90 degree temps with the AC on as it does on a 55 degree day with the AC off. Only bad thing for me was that my factory fans died on me early fall, causing AC pressures to skyrocket and my compressor to fail. GM put in new fans under warranty, and now I’m good to go once I flush the lines and throw in a new compressor.

I think my fans failing was a fluke. Saw one other 6 gen SS owner (stock car) have the same thing happen to him.

But is the KC worth it on a daily driver? I would say absolutely.

[Daves1SS]

Originally Posted by djfury05

Exactly what I said.. Good for ONE WOT pull and pointless afterwards until everything cools down.

I dyno’d with the KC. After each run we drove the car easy on the dyno for about 20 seconds and by that time the IAT’s were back down nice and low ready for the next pull. All pulls were literally all within 1 hp of each other. I was very impressed at how quickly the IAT’s recovered.

[TrekGTO]

Originally Posted by McBrayer

I got this completed about 2 months ago and have never got around to posting anything about it. None of the plumbing is visible when the front bumper is back on.

Are those brass fittings just reducers in the coolant hose? Lets see your Freon T high and low side.