[1badrwd]

I was wanting to see what techniques A8 owners are using to get off the line the best. Stabilitrac and Traction control off or on? Preload or leave from idle? Do you change things depending if your at the track or just on the street?

My last sports car was a turbo awd 5spd so I'm in a totally different world! I've only had the car just under a week. Love it and had a first race against 2015 mustang gt. Killed him easily and i didn't change any settings or preload. I was even is touring mode! I know track mode will help as well.


So what's everyone's opinion?

[jdasnt3]

1. Tire pressure at 20psi
2. Traction off and in sport mode (didn't see any diff from stability on or off)
3. Go around water box and line up in the sticky stuff, do a slow burn at 30-40mph for a few seconds to get the tires sticky.
4. Stage In the tracks of the sticky stuff and launch hard from idle.
5. 1.7 60' times are possible without DR's.

[SpeedIsLife]

Don't do a true burnout on street tires. Just spin them for a second or two to clean off any sand, pebbles or other twigs. if you're spinning them to the point where smoke is visible, you've done too much.

Street tire compound gets more slippery and slick when warm, not stickier.

Save burnouts for DR's.

[1badrwd]

Thanks for the tips!

[trz174]

Originally Posted by jdasnt3

1. Tire pressure at 20psi
2. Traction off and in sport mode (didn't see any diff from stability on or off)
3. Go around water box and line up in the sticky stuff, do a slow burn at 30-40mph for a few seconds to get the tires sticky.
4. Stage In the tracks of the sticky stuff and launch hard from idle.
5. 1.7 60' times are possible without DR's.

Absolutely correct with some suggestions for conditions. If you do exactly what is posted you should get 1.7-1.8 60ft with an A8 on a reasonable track.

If that doesn't work, try this:

I drive around the water and then back into it, hit the throttle to spin out of the water box, and then do the burnout exactly as described. I do it this way to reduce the driveline stress rather than starting the burnout on a somewhat dry surface.

If the track surface is poor, do the same thing but hold the burnout until you see smoke in the rear view. Get the tires really hot and then drive up to the line without any further drama. This not my first choice but it works - and you leave about 500 miles of rubber on the track and in the wheel wells.

For bracket racing, do everything the same but do a quick, hard, no smoke dry burnout to clean the crap off the tires, use launch control, and focus on consistent (but 2-3 tenths slower) runs.

Last - if you get wheel hop - back off because that run is over. No reason to damage the track or the car. Drive back into the staging lanes and do it again.

[jdasnt3]

Originally Posted by SpeedIsLife

Don't do a true burnout on street tires. Just spin them for a second or two to clean off any sand, pebbles or other twigs. if you're spinning them to the point where smoke is visible, you've done too much.

Street tire compound gets more slippery and slick when warm, not stickier.

Save burnouts for DR's.

Normally I would agree, but with these tires they need a little more than a couple second clean. No burnouts, but a nice even spin at low rpm.

We couldn't get past a high 1.8 second until Matt from FSP showed me the 40MPH spin on the tires for a few seconds. It was an amazing difference with these tires.

[SpeedIsLife]

Originally Posted by jdasnt3

Normally I would agree, but with these tires they need a little more than a couple second clean. No burnouts, but a nice even spin at low rpm.

We couldn't get past a high 1.8 second until Matt from FSP showed me the 40MPH spin on the tires for a few seconds. It was an amazing difference with these tires.

Okay yeah that should be fine...

I've just seen sooooo many people roasting stock, all season street tires thinking they're a ProStock car and then wondering why they're still spinning.

OP:

If you're wanting to get the most out of these cars, you're going to need to get a set of rear wheels, preferably 17", and try these out...

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...item=ETStreetR

They are, hands down, the best DOT approved DR I've ever run. The 305/45/R17 would help you grip like flypaper, even on a less than stellar track prep.

[1badrwd]

Originally Posted by SpeedIsLife

Okay yeah that should be fine...

I've just seen sooooo many people roasting stock, all season street tires thinking they're a ProStock car and then wondering why they're still spinning.

OP:

If you're wanting to get the most out of these cars, you're going to need to get a set of rear wheels, preferably 17", and try these out...

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...item=ETStreetR

They are, hands down, the best DOT approved DR I've ever run. The 305/45/R17 would help you grip like flypaper, even on a less than stellar track prep.

This is why i was asking for tips! Seems like i always see guys with regular street tires smoking the crap out of them. My AWD was simple- 5grand, dump the clutch and leapfrog off the line. Little bit more to it with this car to get off the line right!

[Hooves]

Good stuff on this thread. I'm heading to the strip after a quick break in period to learn to put this power to the ground!

[HZjr]

Originally Posted by SpeedIsLife

If you're wanting to get the most out of these cars, you're going to need to get a set of rear wheels, preferably 17", and try these out...

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...item=ETStreetR

They are, hands down, the best DOT approved DR I've ever run. The 305/45/R17 would help you grip like flypaper, even on a less than stellar track prep.

What rim would you get for those DRs?

[HZjr]

Has anyone tried nitto invos?

[trz174]

Originally Posted by trz174

Absolutely correct with some suggestions for conditions. If you do exactly what is posted you should get 1.7-1.8 60ft with an A8 on a reasonable track.

If that doesn't work, try this:

I drive around the water and then back into it, hit the throttle to spin out of the water box, and then do the burnout exactly as described. I do it this way to reduce the driveline stress rather than starting the burnout on a somewhat dry surface.

If the track surface is poor, do the same thing but hold the burnout until you see smoke in the rear view. Get the tires really hot and then drive up to the line without any further drama. This not my first choice but it works - and you leave about 500 miles of rubber on the track and in the wheel wells.

For bracket racing, do everything the same but do a quick, hard, no smoke dry burnout to clean the crap off the tires, use launch control, and focus on consistent (but 2-3 tenths slower) runs.

Last - if you get wheel hop - back off because that run is over. No reason to damage the track or the car. Drive back into the staging lanes and do it again.

Here are two super consistent runs using the procedure above. These were made after driving three hours to the track and doing two runs as fast as I could get into the lanes. About 1/3 tank of gas. Runs were both on the stock GY tires with 20 PSI in the rear and 36 PSI in the front. DA was -87. The car has a Bo White Stage 1 PTB and no other mods of any kind. I was by myself so no videos.

[1badrwd]

Those are a couple of pretty awesome and constant runs!!

[oldman]

Originally Posted by SpeedIsLife

Okay yeah that should be fine...

I've just seen sooooo many people roasting stock, all season street tires thinking they're a ProStock car and then wondering why they're still spinning.

OP:

If you're wanting to get the most out of these cars, you're going to need to get a set of rear wheels, preferably 17", and try these out...

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...item=ETStreetR

They are, hands down, the best DOT approved DR I've ever run. The 305/45/R17 would help you grip like flypaper, even on a less than stellar track prep.

are we sure 17" will clear?