[raidaru]

Hi there fellas, I'm stuck at some silly thing, and that is bleeding the brakes of my '17 2SS. I removed both rear calipers and thus all fluid leaked prooly to the last drop. Today I've put back the callipers, filled the master cyl tank with fresh dot 3 fluid and started pressing the pedal, let's say the lever in master cyl tank went down by 1cm and that's all, I think i pushed the pedal more than 100 times, tried with bleed screw both loose and thight, nothing, pedal will be soft like a sponge. I did however observe that out of the bleeding screw came out about 1cm of fluid in the clear hose that I put on it, but that would be all, no matter how much I pressed the pedal after that. Tried also the gravity bleeding, no results.Tried with my MK808 scanner the bleeding feature but seems that it supports GM cars only up to 2013 , although scanning modules on the car with works..... Any ideas what should I try next?

[trohde78]

There is an inner and outer bleed screw on each caliper. Did you bleed both (4 total for the rear calipers)? Skipping the inner one caused a soft pedal on my SS until I realized there were two bleed screws per caliper.

[checkeredflag]

Get a motive pressure bleeder, best investment for bleeding our brakes

[trohde78]

Originally Posted by checkeredflag

Get a motive pressure bleeder, best investment for bleeding our brakes

+1

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by trohde78

There is an inner and outer bleed screw on each caliper. Did you bleed both (4 total for the rear calipers)? Skipping the inner one caused a soft pedal on my SS until I realized there were two bleed screws per caliper.

Yeah, tried to bleed both, at the same time and one after another, same thing.....

Originally Posted by checkeredflag

Get a motive pressure bleeder, best investment for bleeding our brakes

luckly I managed to update sw on my MK808 scan tool and now it covers my camaro, I'll be able to use the brake bleed feature, hopefully it will work with that.

[trohde78]

The recommendation that I've read is to bleed the inside first, then the outside. Good luck!

[breakskeet]

You will still probably need the Motive Bleeder to push fluid into the system since it is bone dry. This will force fluid into the system as it is basically full of air and pumping the pedal won't prime it.

I would recommend using the motive bleeder dry. I have used it this way many times. The instructions say to fill the bleeder with fluid. I and many other choose to fill the fluid reservoir on the car and then use pressurized bleeder to push the fluid into the system. The positive of doing it this way is that you do not contaminate the bleeder with any fluid and have to extensively clean all the brake fluid out of it. The downside of doing it this way is that you have to monitor the fluid level on the reservoir to make sure you don't push all the fluid out introduce air into the system. In your case you will probably have to depressurize the system and refill the reservoir after every caliper since the lines are basically empty. During a normal brake bleed I can do two calipers before i have to refill.

[protovack]

You'll just have to take it slow, make sure the reservoir is topped off, and fill each line till fluid comes out then lock down the valve. I could be wrong but I believe that after you've gone bone dry, you can fill all the lines again but you still may have air in the system so you may have to go around and bleed each corner again. Someone tell me if I'm wrong

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by raidaru

Hi there fellas, I'm stuck at some silly thing, and that is bleeding the brakes of my '17 2SS. I removed both rear calipers and thus all fluid leaked prooly to the last drop. Today I've put back the callipers, filled the master cyl tank with fresh dot 3 fluid and started pressing the pedal, let's say the lever in master cyl tank went down by 1cm and that's all, I think i pushed the pedal more than 100 times, tried with bleed screw both loose and thight, nothing, pedal will be soft like a sponge. I did however observe that out of the bleeding screw came out about 1cm of fluid in the clear hose that I put on it, but that would be all, no matter how much I pressed the pedal after that. Tried also the gravity bleeding, no results.Tried with my MK808 scanner the bleeding feature but seems that it supports GM cars only up to 2013 , although scanning modules on the car with works..... Any ideas what should I try next?

Sounds like you bled the Master Cylinder dry. You will need to 'bench bleed' your Master.

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Sounds like you bled the Master Cylinder dry. You will need to 'bench bleed' your Master.

That's the last thing I'm gonna try, too much hassle. I wanna buy a Motive bleeder but european dealer doesn't have the 0108 kit so I wonder if this could also do the trick? https://www.motiveproducts.com/produ...t-bleeder-kits

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by raidaru

That's the last thing I'm gonna try, too much hassle. I wanna buy a Motive bleeder but european dealer doesn't have the 0108 kit so I wonder if this could also do the trick? https://www.motiveproducts.com/produ...t-bleeder-kits

I have a Motive and it's great. Works very well for my 'single-person' bleeds.


However, it won't do you any good IF the Master cylinder went dry while you had the calipers off.


To 'bench bleed', you have to pull the master out of the car and run all the air out and the fluid in.

[raidaru]

How about this method , is it worth trying?

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by raidaru

How about this method , is it worth trying?

That is completely unnecessary. Why do you want to push all the air through ten feet of hose, and take a risk of getting break fluid on the paint? The idea behind bench bleeding is to not push all the air in the master cylinder through the brake system. This method doesn't keep that from happening. You also need no fancy tools to bleed brakes. The best method is with two people, but a plastic bottle and some 3/16 clear tubing will work just fine if you are by yourself. You also don't need to pump the hell out of the brakes either like many think. Long slow travel is the best method.
The other thing you have to watch if you had the calibers off, is that you don't switch the left and right as many cars will allow them to be mounted on either side ,but the bleeders will end up on the bottom which will make them impossible to bleed. I don't if Camaro calibers can be switched or not.

[raidaru]

Originally Posted by motorhead

That is completely unnecessary. Why do you want to push all the air through ten feet of hose, and take a risk of getting break fluid on the paint? The idea behind bench bleeding is to not push all the air in the master cylinder through the brake system. This method doesn't keep that from happening. You also need no fancy tools to bleed brakes. The best method is with two people, but a plastic bottle and some 3/16 clear tubing will work just fine if you are by yourself. You also don't need to pump the hell out of the brakes either like many think. Long slow travel is the best method.
The other thing you have to watch if you had the calibers off, is that you don't switch the left and right as many cars will allow them to be mounted on either side ,but the bleeders will end up on the bottom which will make them impossible to bleed. I don't if Camaro calibers can be switched or not.

They weren't switched. I topped the fluid tank, opened bleeder screw and put a hose on it. After the few 1st pedalst level droped @ 1cm in the fluid tank, and that was all. I could also see 1-2 cm fluid in the hose but stuck there, even pushing 100 more times after that no more fluid came out of the bleeder and no fluid was sucked in from the tank.