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Old 12-13-2015, 08:31 PM   #71
KaBoom1701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal45 View Post
The car is already custom tuned when I had all the mods installed in my sig below.
Took it out after install and put it through the paces and it runs fine (& loud) and no cell's. I may get it tuned again just to tweak it a bit but it runs strong with the current tune (Dyno tuned) that was done for all the mods I had previously.
Got it.

Thx for the reply!
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Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats.
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:15 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Bigtime53 View Post
Ok I have read and read about these headers. I see where some of you say you would not buy the oversea ones and some are saying buy american made. I am with the american made products and keep america working and support it all I can at work. That being said I have concerns when I see a company who sells a product that is american made and offers another product that looks exactly the same and supposed to be made with the same material [this being stainless steel] for a deep discounted price. Your first thought is "that probably won't be worth a damn that is why it is so cheap" is what I think anyway. But how do you know when you step up and buy the "american made product" you are not getting the other one? I am all for a company making a buck but I have always bought the cheaper product in fear that if I buy the higher priced one I am getting the cheaper one anyway so I am not giving them any extra money. I am not saying anyone is doing that with selling these headers so please don't scold me. I simply am saying that I would not be afraid to buy the cheaper ones for my car.After all, the companies selling these are in america so you are not totally buying from a oversea company.
Stainless Works has a lifetime warranty on their more expensive American made products. On their overseas built product line named Stainless Power, they are built from the same material and SW design, but only carry a 2 year warranty. They mark the Stainless Works headers w/a large SW plate, and their Stainless Power with a SP plate (see my pic on post #66 above). If you have a receipt for SW headers they will carry a lifetime warranty for replacement if anything happens to them - I think that also has something to do with the higher price, too.

Last edited by cal45; 12-13-2015 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:32 PM   #73
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I have stainless power headers and hiflow cats on my SS. Installed them myself. Few thousand miles later so far so good.
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:25 PM   #74
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Which size tubes are best and why? 1-7/8 or 2" Maybe if you do not plan on cam and heads the smaller tube better or if you do heads and cam you need the 2"?
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Old 12-14-2015, 02:41 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
Got it.

Thx for the reply!
Well, it took a day but I do have a CEL lit so I will now be getting my tune tweaked a bit to adjust for the add on of the headers & hi flow cats.
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:09 AM   #76
KaBoom1701
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I think this happens to everyone who puts headers and HF cats on. lol
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:29 PM   #77
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Just installed mine. Easy installation but I'm concerned on how close one tube is to the boot of the steering shaft.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:58 PM   #78
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Just installed mine. Easy installation but I'm concerned on how close one tube is to the boot of the steering shaft.

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Are these headers 2" primaries or 1 7/8"? Mine are 1 7/8" and they are no where near that close for me, mine fit perfectly.
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:33 AM   #79
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They are the 1 7/8" ones

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Old 03-04-2016, 12:00 PM   #80
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They are the 1 7/8" ones

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Mine is a '14, but that shouldn't matter. There is about an inch and a half of clearance there for me.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:02 PM   #81
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I'll try to get a picture tonight if I can remember.... That is definitely close though, I can see the heat of the headers melting that rubber boot.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:51 PM   #82
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the '14 ZL1 I installed headers on had way more clearance there than my '12 or '13. Both 1 7/8" and Stainless Power. The cars should be identical in that area but the '14 had way more clearance everywhere.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:52 PM   #83
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just cut off the rubber boot...it is not a huge issue. Get a sharp razor and just slice it.
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:08 PM   #84
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Quote:
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the '14 ZL1 I installed headers on had way more clearance there than my '12 or '13. Both 1 7/8" and Stainless Power. The cars should be identical in that area but the '14 had way more clearance everywhere.
Oh, that's weird.
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