DIY Clutch and Rear cradle removal - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

BigMatt · 03-14-2013, 09:24 PM

For the street slayer you need a larger throw out bearing. Here's a pic of it installed along with the Tick speed bleeder.

I also have the tick braided stainless line. So in order to get the stock clutch line out there is a clip holding it in on the firewall. You just have to squeeze in the sides with your finger. The only way I could figure out how to get the clutch line out was to cut it and pull the top through the engine bay and the bottom from underneath the car.

I also installed the JDP motorsport separate clutch fluid reservoir while I was at it. You just pull off and cap the clutch line from the stock reservoir and plug in the new one and screw it onto the front of the brake reservoir.

the next shot is just how the new braided clutch line mounts.

So after I got all that done I lined up the transmission and got it bolted to the engine. This was a PITA with just me, but if I had to do it again, I think it wouldn't be anywhere near as bad. The jack I got from harbor freight was very helpful (thanks Stealth).

Ok so since all of the transmission work was done is time to move to the rear end. I had to sand off the glue from the old bushings, so I made sure they were very smooth which took off most of the powdercoat, so I just painted them with some rustoleum. I also pulled off the upper control arm bushings to have the bearings pressed out.

Thats as far as I got today. More to come this weekend.

Medi0cr3 · 09-29-2013, 03:12 AM

Nice job man. I just installed a street slayer as well. Having fun reinstalling my transmission at the moment... Got my alignment tool moving in and out easily as well... hah this sucks :P I got the same xmsn jack that you have. Any tips?

BigMatt · 09-29-2013, 01:31 PM

Putting the tranny back in was a big PITA. Just take your time and make sure the wires are out of the way when you're lining it back up. You're gonna love the street slayer!

TheBrightSide · 08-14-2025, 01:35 AM

Sorry for grave-digging, but I’m stuck removing my TR-6060 from my ‘10 SS coupe. I have the trans lines disconnected fro the fittings that are connected to the trans itself, but the hanging lines are still underneath the bell housing. Won’t they bend and break if I drop the trans on them??

Sliding the trans back seems impossible, even at an angle, because I didn’t disconnect the shifter like you did. I undid the four 10 mm bolts holding on the shifter housing to the center console area. It seems like the trans is hanging on the shaft(?) splines when I angle it down too much, as the trans jack starts almost freely moving, while the trans is still stuck up on the engine’s shaft.

I’m also marring the hell outta the trans using pry bars in and around the 3 available cutout slots (one on the bottom from, and one on each side towards the top sides). I’m so lost… Can anyone guide me? Someone else said to loosen the motor mounts, but the engine is already tilted as far back as it can. It looks like the back of the intake manifold is literally hitting the firewall (not 100% sure, but looks that way).

03-14-2013, 09:24 PM	#15
BigMatt 2010 Camaro 2 SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: May 2009 Location: Clayton Delaware Posts: 1,218 View My Garage	For the street slayer you need a larger throw out bearing. Here's a pic of it installed along with the Tick speed bleeder. I also have the tick braided stainless line. So in order to get the stock clutch line out there is a clip holding it in on the firewall. You just have to squeeze in the sides with your finger. The only way I could figure out how to get the clutch line out was to cut it and pull the top through the engine bay and the bottom from underneath the car. I also installed the JDP motorsport separate clutch fluid reservoir while I was at it. You just pull off and cap the clutch line from the stock reservoir and plug in the new one and screw it onto the front of the brake reservoir. the next shot is just how the new braided clutch line mounts. So after I got all that done I lined up the transmission and got it bolted to the engine. This was a PITA with just me, but if I had to do it again, I think it wouldn't be anywhere near as bad. The jack I got from harbor freight was very helpful (thanks Stealth). Ok so since all of the transmission work was done is time to move to the rear end. I had to sand off the glue from the old bushings, so I made sure they were very smooth which took off most of the powdercoat, so I just painted them with some rustoleum. I also pulled off the upper control arm bushings to have the bearings pressed out. Thats as far as I got today. More to come this weekend. Attached Images __________________ Forged LS3, FED M311 heads, CAI Inc, ARH 1 7/8, Corsa Xtreme, Taylor Wires, MGW Shifter, Street slayer twin carbon clutch, Tick braided clutch line & speed bleeder, ZL1 Diff Swap, BMR Split drop, Sway Bars, Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Pro bushing kit, Carslyle racing 15in conversion, Whipple, LPE dual fuel pumps, Rx catch can, Id1300x, Alky Control Last edited by BigMatt; 03-14-2013 at 09:39 PM.

09-29-2013, 03:12 AM	#16
Medi0cr3 Untamed Performance EPT Drives: 2011 2SS Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: El Paso Posts: 372	Nice job man. I just installed a street slayer as well. Having fun reinstalling my transmission at the moment... Got my alignment tool moving in and out easily as well... hah this sucks :P I got the same xmsn jack that you have. Any tips? __________________ Night Fury Cam Borla LT Headers and Borla Cat Back ATAK 9in. diff with 4.11's, DSS Axles, and Alum Shaft Hurst Short-Shifter; Ideal Garage Master Cylinder H-E Street Slayer Twin Billet Clutch BMR: Adjustable; Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Extreme Sway Bar. BMR Subframe Bushings. Strange Rear Coilovers and mounts Tuned by Rhino79

09-29-2013, 01:31 PM	#17
BigMatt 2010 Camaro 2 SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: May 2009 Location: Clayton Delaware Posts: 1,218 View My Garage	Putting the tranny back in was a big PITA. Just take your time and make sure the wires are out of the way when you're lining it back up. You're gonna love the street slayer! __________________ Forged LS3, FED M311 heads, CAI Inc, ARH 1 7/8, Corsa Xtreme, Taylor Wires, MGW Shifter, Street slayer twin carbon clutch, Tick braided clutch line & speed bleeder, ZL1 Diff Swap, BMR Split drop, Sway Bars, Trailing Arms, Toe Rods, Pro bushing kit, Carslyle racing 15in conversion, Whipple, LPE dual fuel pumps, Rx catch can, Id1300x, Alky Control

08-14-2025, 01:35 AM	#18
TheBrightSide Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024 Location: Sacramento, CA - USA Posts: 367	Sorry for grave-digging, but I’m stuck removing my TR-6060 from my ‘10 SS coupe. I have the trans lines disconnected fro the fittings that are connected to the trans itself, but the hanging lines are still underneath the bell housing. Won’t they bend and break if I drop the trans on them?? Sliding the trans back seems impossible, even at an angle, because I didn’t disconnect the shifter like you did. I undid the four 10 mm bolts holding on the shifter housing to the center console area. It seems like the trans is hanging on the shaft(?) splines when I angle it down too much, as the trans jack starts almost freely moving, while the trans is still stuck up on the engine’s shaft. I’m also marring the hell outta the trans using pry bars in and around the 3 available cutout slots (one on the bottom from, and one on each side towards the top sides). I’m so lost… Can anyone guide me? Someone else said to loosen the motor mounts, but the engine is already tilted as far back as it can. It looks like the back of the intake manifold is literally hitting the firewall (not 100% sure, but looks that way).