08-31-2019, 04:37 PM | #1 |
WHPLSH
Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Clemente ,Ca
Posts: 128
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Doing cradle bushings
So I got a set of Hendrix solid cradle bushings and his offset diff bushings and just ordered Z/28 upper control arm bushings, Are there any TTY bolts that need to be replaced when doing this? And it is probably best to drop the whole cradle right? can all 3 be done in 1 day with jack stands? thanks.
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08-31-2019, 04:43 PM | #2 | |
Captain Gingerbeard
Drives: 2012 IOM RS/SS 6MT Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: West Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 2,489
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Technically the cradle bolts are TTY.
Any bolt that is "X ft-lbs + Y degrees" is going to need to be replaced.
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Custom ordered 2012 6MT RS/SS on 11/25/2011. Picked up 01/31/12.
Pedders Coilovers, BMR trailing arms and toe-links, Prothane solid poly subframe bushings, JDP Motorsports rear upper control arm bushings, Texas Speed long-tube headers with 2" primaries, modified fully 3" Magnaflow competition catback. CAI cold-air intake. DBA rotors, Hawk pads. Quote:
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08-31-2019, 05:00 PM | #3 |
WHPLSH
Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Clemente ,Ca
Posts: 128
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Ok, better order those with the control arm bushings, Is it wise to do the upper control arm bushings while doing the cradle?
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08-31-2019, 05:02 PM | #4 | |
Captain Gingerbeard
Drives: 2012 IOM RS/SS 6MT Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: West Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 2,489
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I did everything in one go--springs and struts and all.
__________________
Custom ordered 2012 6MT RS/SS on 11/25/2011. Picked up 01/31/12.
Pedders Coilovers, BMR trailing arms and toe-links, Prothane solid poly subframe bushings, JDP Motorsports rear upper control arm bushings, Texas Speed long-tube headers with 2" primaries, modified fully 3" Magnaflow competition catback. CAI cold-air intake. DBA rotors, Hawk pads. Quote:
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08-31-2019, 05:27 PM | #5 | |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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Quote:
Edit: You don't have to drop the cradle completely to do the cradle bushings. Just lower it enough to use the socket and heat method. Easy.
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TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
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08-31-2019, 11:36 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,064
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Make sure you have something to generate enough heat, I used a small propane torch and worked great only took a few minutes each. An helps to disconnect sway bar too.
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
09-01-2019, 04:49 AM | #7 |
WHPLSH
Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Clemente ,Ca
Posts: 128
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How about the offset diff bushings are those hard to remove the stock ones?
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09-01-2019, 07:09 AM | #8 |
SomeguyK
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: FL
Posts: 1,947
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The stocks can be a pain in the ass to remove. Do you have access to a press? That will make it much easier. If not, get a sawzaw and some good blades. Cut out the old bushing best a possible. Then carefully cut the metal sleeve. Try not to knick or cut the diff itself. Knock out the sleeve. If you do knick them, just smooth them out. Clock the offsets so the bolt hole is at the 6 o'clock position. Push in by hand, then grab a piece of wood and a hammer (unless you have a press). Tap them into place. Done. Can be done in car just lowering diff...but easier if removed.
__________________
TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII
More to come. |
09-01-2019, 11:17 AM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,064
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There's a tool out there some where that presses them out, just look in the DIY section or here in the Suspension sub forums
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
09-01-2019, 07:52 PM | #10 |
WHPLSH
Drives: 2010 SS Maggie,ARH,Meth,AFE Coilove Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: San Clemente ,Ca
Posts: 128
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Thanks for the input guys, I think I am just going to do the cradle bushings now and the UCA and diff bushings at a later time. The diff bushing removal sounds like a PITA, I have the pegasus and Hendrix diff bushings just got them in the mail but the cradle will be the first job to tackle.
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09-02-2019, 11:34 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Southern California
Posts: 253
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Half the stuff back there is TTY. I posted a thread recently from my research in which ones are TTY. I have all the part numbers saved on my hard drive.
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2014 SS | MGW Flat Stick shifter | Raceseng Slammer shift knob | Z/28 spoiler and grill
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