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Old 10-20-2021, 06:18 PM   #15
ZMEnow

 
Drives: ZL1, 2013, tri-coat-red, manual
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
Good question... lol

Seems after all the run around on this GM decided the original spring isolator was the best fix but just add lubrication?

I think at this point I'm going to see if I can remove the front snout and see how much damage the original spring iso had done to the shaft. If not much, and I dont see any shavings got into the SC then I'll just replace the isolator myself and call it a day. If there is substantial damage and it looks like the metal shaving might have gotten into the SC housing itself I'll go the dealer route..

I'm just hoping not to have to remove the ATI damper and 18% OD pulley and some other parts for the dealer option.... lol

They did improve the spring as the designer argued that the spring has an advantage with lag opposed to no lag on a pin over a lifetime. Remember they were thinking 10 years or 120K miles. Yep I agree if removing the ATI you might as well rebuild it..
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Old 10-20-2021, 11:59 PM   #16
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Got some parts today.
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Old 10-21-2021, 11:37 PM   #17
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Mission accomplished!
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Old 10-22-2021, 06:47 AM   #18
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Nice job. Now send it out to get ported while it’s off.
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Old 10-22-2021, 09:51 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by tartagliazl1 View Post
Nice job. Now send it out to get ported while it’s off.
Thought about it. Lol

I need to keep parts for CA smog so I'll need another snout or complete SC unit as a donor for porting.

I just slapped the updated solid iso coupler from Eaton in there for now and buttoned her up. Gotta finish plugs, wires and long tube headers and flash back to custom tune today. My daughter says my car lost her growl. Lol. Can't have that.
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Old 10-22-2021, 11:24 AM   #20
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Did the tite-reach work to get at the back bolts of the supercharger lid?
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Old 10-22-2021, 11:57 AM   #21
KaBoom1701
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Did the tite-reach work to get at the back bolts of the supercharger lid?
I did not.

I ended up using the rubber mallet wedged between the SC lid and hood to gain the space I needed. Then used a 1/4 drive socket/ratchet combined with a 1/4 swivel joint. I also had a these metric flex head ratcheting wrenches that worked great on getting the bolts tight. Combined with a handy magnetic pen to help set the screw and prevent it from falling down into the back on the engine.

Pro tip - secure your 10mm wrench with a string.... that way when/if it falls behind the engine you can retrieve it easily. lol

Honestly beside the bolts on the back of the SC lid being a PIA the whole time is spent removing/cleaning the old RTV seal from the SC housing and snout. That stuff takes forever to remove. I wanted to make sure I had a good seal for the new RTV before reassembly.
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Old 10-22-2021, 05:40 PM   #22
ZMEnow

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
I did not.

I ended up using the rubber mallet wedged between the SC lid and hood to gain the space I needed. Then used a 1/4 drive socket/ratchet combined with a 1/4 swivel joint. I also had a these metric flex head ratcheting wrenches that worked great on getting the bolts tight. Combined with a handy magnetic pen to help set the screw and prevent it from falling down into the back on the engine.

Pro tip - secure your 10mm wrench with a string.... that way when/if it falls behind the engine you can retrieve it easily. lol

Honestly beside the bolts on the back of the SC lid being a PIA the whole time is spent removing/cleaning the old RTV seal from the SC housing and snout. That stuff takes forever to remove. I wanted to make sure I had a good seal for the new RTV before reassembly.

Best tool in my bench...


https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...het-67994.html
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Old 10-22-2021, 06:14 PM   #23
KaBoom1701
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Mine is the magnetic pen I have. I grab more dropped bolts and wrenches with that thing. Lol
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