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Old 10-18-2021, 12:14 PM   #1
KaBoom1701
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ZL1 Supercharger snout / Isolator Coupling question

Wanted to ask my fellow ZL1 faithful here a few questions about upgrading/replacing the dreaded isolator coupling that causes the "marble" knocking noise on our cars.

Just put the care back to stock to pass CA smog so now would be the time to have the dealer perform the SC warranty but I just dont trust those fools to do it right or to not mess with the car on a test driver or something.

I've got about 16K on the odometer now and starting to hear the noise at idle on supercharger pulley.

If I decide to remove the snout myself and replace the spring loaded isolator coupling with a sold Lingenfelter one what about the worn out shaft on the pulley where is meets the coupler?

Is that an area on concern at all? Can I just install the new solid coupler and be done with it or should a new pulley shaft also be installed?

Looks like this guys just replaces the coupler and reinstalls everything....



The picture is not mine but I used it here to illustrate what I'm asking about.
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Old 10-18-2021, 03:49 PM   #2
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Found this and thought it was funny.

I ordered one. Let's see how it goes.

https://youtu.be/24s0LwxSGKY
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Old 10-18-2021, 03:56 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post

Just put the care back to stock to pass CA smog so now would be the time to have the dealer perform the SC warranty but I just dont trust those fools to do it right or to not mess with the car on a test driver or something.

Is that an area on concern at all? Can I just install the new solid coupler and be done with it or should a new pulley shaft also be installed?
Yes,
When I get around to it I'll do that exact same thing. I'm going to have my brick re-inforced while it's apart.

If it put a sh1tload of metal dust into your bearings you could have them replaced at the same time, but if they aren't making noise I don't plan to do that. They squeel and must be replaced if people let that shaft wear go for many 10's k miles.
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Old 10-18-2021, 04:44 PM   #4
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Well let's see what I can find once I remove the shout. If I see a lot of metal shavings then I'll just put it back on and let the dealer replace the whole SC per the bulletin.

Otherwise I'll just install the new solid isolator and be done with it.
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Old 10-18-2021, 04:53 PM   #5
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Seems like this guy has some good tips on the ZL1 SC lid removal..

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Old 10-18-2021, 04:57 PM   #6
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I think you answered your own question: "worn out shaft." If it is worn out, it requires replacement. If there is no play in the three parts once assembled, you're good to go. My understanding is if a bad isolator is left on for any length of time, the shaft will show visible wear.
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Old 10-18-2021, 07:55 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
Well let's see what I can find once I remove the shout. If I see a lot of metal shavings then I'll just put it back on and let the dealer replace the whole SC per the bulletin.

Otherwise I'll just install the new solid isolator and be done with it.

If you are comfortable taking the lid and snout off, I would find a reasonable dealer service manager take the car to him and as long as they agree it should be replaced I would offer to take it off and do a core exchange. They are just gonna write it up and bill the hours to GM. I did this on my front struts.


Also on your next post about removing the lid, if you have access to a lift or ramps you can drop the cradle which is 4 bolts. You loosen the front two about an inch and then then the rears out while the cradle is supported by a mono jack. I removed one of the fronts just so I knew how much travel I had. I did this for changing my clutch/flywheel, but noticed that it lowered the lid by 4 inches where I could easily get access if I needed. The better techs at the dealer also tell me that's how they pull the SC.

Forgot you need to remove the trans cross member and the exhaust support bracket to get the drive line stretch.

Last edited by ZMEnow; 10-18-2021 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Adding
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Old 10-19-2021, 10:45 AM   #8
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Thanks guys.

I may try that core exchange with the dealer and see what they say.

Thanks
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:06 AM   #9
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I'm going to try this tool for the back bolts on the lid. Seems legit and for $30 it's worth a shot. lol

https://tite-reach.com/collections/t...do-it-yourself
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:34 AM   #10
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They used to have a sign in the fragile section of stores "If you break it you bought it".
If you open up the supercharger and then take it to the dealer and they see it was "worked on" from the bolt head scratches etc, they do not have to warranty it. We don't need to argue amongst ourselves if this is a fair policy. It is reasonable in the big picture for people that go into the engine and mess it up then bring to the dealer to repair free.
If I were you I'd commit to the replacement myself of the coupler because
-it sounds like you feel confident in being able to do it yourself
-the new part is cheap
-no one will mess up your low mi Camaro either mechanically or joy riding or dirty up the interior.

I have read that people bend the firewall slightly to get at the rear bolts. I'll do that, sounds like old days when you took a baseball bat to bend the inner fender metal lips to clear the wide tires. If it is a museum car I understand not bending a couple tiny firewall lips, that but for a driver I think it won't even be very noticeable and worth the slight damage. Akin to cutting an access hole for the fuel pump but less drastic. Similarly I did already slight grinding on the front of the SC to access a bolt for the fuel rail. No big deal to me.
Edit: Where the shaft sticks out isn't needed, don't worry about it being chewed up, it could be sawed off even if you have the new solid coupler in there. I believe sawing it off might very well eliminate the metal chip problem with the spring isolator and might quiet down the ratteling. I'd rather just do the solid coupler but it's a thought.
They might deny the warranty because of your mods also.

Last edited by silversleeper; 10-19-2021 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 10-19-2021, 11:11 PM   #11
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I stopped by my local chevy dealer where I've had my other cars worked on. The service manager knows who I am. I showed him the service bulletin and he confirm my car is still under warrenty. The issue is for me there is no way to fully know if the new SC will have the updated coupler. I imagine the new SC will come fully assembled with the front snout. Which means there is no way to know what "updated" coupler is in there. I highly doubt the GM tech at the dealer will break the RTV seal just to see which couple is in there.

I also spoke to him about the joy ride scenario with these ZL1's parked at dealers waiting for service.

It's up to me which direction I go but I'd had to remove the 18% OD pulley and a few other parts to make the car fully OE stock.... not sure I want to mess with it.

I'm leaning towards just doing this myself and calling it a day. Guess I run the risk of the SC grenading itself in the future if I just replace the isolator coupler...
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Old 10-20-2021, 04:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
I stopped by my local chevy dealer where I've had my other cars worked on. The service manager knows who I am. I showed him the service bulletin and he confirm my car is still under warrenty. The issue is for me there is no way to fully know if the new SC will have the updated coupler. I imagine the new SC will come fully assembled with the front snout. Which means there is no way to know what "updated" coupler is in there. I highly doubt the GM tech at the dealer will break the RTV seal just to see which couple is in there.

I also spoke to him about the joy ride scenario with these ZL1's parked at dealers waiting for service.

It's up to me which direction I go but I'd had to remove the 18% OD pulley and a few other parts to make the car fully OE stock.... not sure I want to mess with it.

I'm leaning towards just doing this myself and calling it a day. Guess I run the risk of the SC grenading itself in the future if I just replace the isolator coupler...

FYI, The original TSB for the supercharger rattle gave the owner two options.
Let the dealer replace th entire SC as a unit, ot reimburse the owner if he replace the coupler himself.
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Old 10-20-2021, 11:51 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaBoom1701 View Post
I stopped by my local chevy dealer where I've had my other cars worked on. The service manager knows who I am. I showed him the service bulletin and he confirm my car is still under warrenty. The issue is for me there is no way to fully know if the new SC will have the updated coupler. I imagine the new SC will come fully assembled with the front snout. Which means there is no way to know what "updated" coupler is in there. I highly doubt the GM tech at the dealer will break the RTV seal just to see which couple is in there.

I also spoke to him about the joy ride scenario with these ZL1's parked at dealers waiting for service.

It's up to me which direction I go but I'd had to remove the 18% OD pulley and a few other parts to make the car fully OE stock.... not sure I want to mess with it.

I'm leaning towards just doing this myself and calling it a day. Guess I run the risk of the SC grenading itself in the future if I just replace the isolator coupler...

Pretty sure all the replacements are back to the improved Isolator Spring which you can tell by just moving the pulley gently back and forth as you would notice a slight detent or movement vs the pinned which there is no slop. But in any case what would you do refuse the Spring Isolator? and that would piss off any pre arrangement you made for a core swap..
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Old 10-20-2021, 05:18 PM   #14
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Pretty sure all the replacements are back to the improved Isolator Spring which you can tell by just moving the pulley gently back and forth as you would notice a slight detent or movement vs the pinned which there is no slop. But in any case what would you do refuse the Spring Isolator? and that would piss off any pre arrangement you made for a core swap..
Good question... lol

Seems after all the run around on this GM decided the original spring isolator was the best fix but just add lubrication?

I think at this point I'm going to see if I can remove the front snout and see how much damage the original spring iso had done to the shaft. If not much, and I dont see any shavings got into the SC then I'll just replace the isolator myself and call it a day. If there is substantial damage and it looks like the metal shaving might have gotten into the SC housing itself I'll go the dealer route..

I'm just hoping not to have to remove the ATI damper and 18% OD pulley and some other parts for the dealer option.... lol
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