The Pittsburgh Thread

[tahseenmahmood]

Thanks for the offer.. this is a very sharp looking bike but i was interested in a bike with side fairings ... i like your camaro though... synergy green FTW.!

[hkemp]

Thanks

[Bumblebee2012]

Folks, what are my options for DOT drag radial rear tires for my car with the factory RS 20"wheels? Looks like I'm driving to Atlanta on the 29th to pick up the Kenne Bell.

Also, I need a ZL1 fuel pump if you know of a best price merchant.

Do any of you have the tools to change valve springs on the car?

I'm considering selling a bike and doing a blower cam as well. Anyone want a KLR650?

Sent from a Galaxy S3, far....far away.

[Seer]

Originally Posted by Bumblebee2012

Folks, what are my options for DOT drag radial rear tires for my car with the factory RS 20"wheels? Looks like I'm driving to Atlanta on the 29th to pick up the Kenne Bell.

Also, I need a ZL1 fuel pump if you know of a best price merchant.

Do any of you have the tools to change valve springs on the car?

I'm considering selling a bike and doing a blower cam as well. Anyone want a KLR650?

Sent from a Galaxy S3, far....far away.

Nitto NT555R 305/35/20 or NT05R 315/35/20

I do not know if MT makes a street drag radial yet in a 20", if so it is probably a 305/35/20.

Kenne Bell recommends you use their boost a pump with injectors. But theres nothing wrong in replacing the pumps though either. Just make sure your tuner knows.

[Bumblebee2012]

I plan on using the ZL1 pump and not the boost pump. The ZL1 pump is supposed to be plenty for up to 600 hp, and I don't expect to be much more than 500 hp. I also planned to not custom tune until I go with the super chiller and headers next year. I am planning to use the KB tuner that is said to be ultra conservative and leaves 50-60 hp on the table compared to a custom tune.

Sent from a Galaxy S3, far....far away.

[Seer]

Originally Posted by Bumblebee2012

I plan on using the ZL1 pump and not the boost pump. The ZL1 pump is supposed to be plenty for up to 600 hp, and I don't expect to be much more than 500 hp. I also planned to not custom tune until I go with the super chiller and headers next year. I am planning to use the KB tuner that is said to be ultra conservative and leaves 50-60 hp on the table compared to a custom tune.

Sent from a Galaxy S3, far....far away.

itll support 650hp at the flywheel, if you ever need, you can always add a bap to it as well.

[Bumblebee2012]

I can't imagine that the bap is all that healthy for the pump designed for a long life at 12 volts. I know that you can dump voltage on a DC motor and increase tq and RPM, but to say that it does not effect service life would be reaching. That, and I feel that reliability with the BAP would be much less than with an OEM pump.

Sent from a Galaxy S3, far....far away.

[Seer]

Originally Posted by Bumblebee2012

I can't imagine that the bap is all that healthy for the pump designed for a long life at 12 volts. I know that you can dump voltage on a DC motor and increase tq and RPM, but to say that it does not effect service life would be reaching. That, and I feel that reliability with the BAP would be much less than with an OEM pump.

Sent from a Galaxy S3, far....far away.

You would imagine wrong then. The pumps are rated at 12-13.5v. That is not their capacity, most pumps are over engineered. I ran a 20.5v bap for both of my pumps without issue or pump failiure.

Remember you are running a returnless setup, your pumps are not always running at that voltage, only during peak demand.

Kenne Bell has done a lot of studying, to say a BAP isn't safe is incorrect. Now is running larger pumps a better idea sure, especially in a return style/regulator setup. But since you are sticking with a returnless setup there is nothing wrong with a BAP. Hell, look at the Shelby Super Snakes, they all run a BAP from the factory, so do the Koeniggsegg exotics.

With my current build I decided to add a return line and upgrade the pumps and run new ones that were not running in pulse width modulation. So my pumps are running at 100% all of the time, but they were designed for it. I ended up going with dual DCSS 465 pumps.

Only thing I dislike about returnless style fuel setups (what cars run stock) is that there is a lag time between the measurement of fuel pressure at the rail and signal relay to your fuel pressure command/driver modules, so you will see pressure spikes during shifts when going wot/racing. Hence another reason why I switched to return style. Easier to tune, 100% fuel on demand without hesitation.

Anyway, I'd say BAP's fail about as often as OEM pumps do on their own. It's pretty rare. The ZL1 pump is good enough though for your power output. If you wanted to retune it and crank out more, I'd look into a BAP or a return style fuel setup.

Edit: Ford embraced the BAP idea as well with the 2011+ mustangs. All of them can over volt their fuel pumps based upon fuel demand. The FPDM's can draw more voltage through the alternator for 15 seconds, ramping the pumps up to 15v.

[SSBUSDRVR]

Haven't been here in awhile. ^ What he said. Got to weed through alot of BS on these MB now a days. Been running the KB BAP and ZL1 pump for just about year now at 650's to rear. LS3 No issues. Knock on wood.
Imho would stay away from a Canned Tune no matter what make Blower if you have modded it someway. Even a CAI Intake can screw things up.
Man would take a page to put down what happened on the car after blower Install before sending it to Vengeance Racing for rest of work. Long story short. They saved the motor. Safe Drive to GA bumblebee2012 Enjoy the KB

[Bumblebee2012]

Originally Posted by SSBUSDRVR

Haven't been here in awhile. ^ What he said. Got to weed through alot of BS on these MB now a days. Been running the KB BAP and ZL1 pump for just about year now at 650's to rear. LS3 No issues. Knock on wood.
Imho would stay away from a Canned Tune no matter what make Blower if you have modded it someway. Even a CAI Intake can screw things up.
Man would take a page to put down what happened on the car after blower Install before sending it to Vengeance Racing for rest of work. Long story short. They saved the motor. Safe Drive to GA bumblebee2012 Enjoy the KB

If I install the KB and do nothing else I plan to use the canned tune. If I add headers/cats or anything like that, I'll do a custom.

[Bumblebee2012]

OK, talked to KB about my fear on the BAP. They claim that the factory pump is engineered for up to 20 volts at 100% duty cycle if submerged. The BAP pushes the pump to a max of 17.5 volts. He says that so long as you keep the car at or above a quarter tank, the pump will be entirely submerged and therefor not in jeapordy of thermal run away.

Pump and new filter ordered.

[Bumblebee2012]

Who should I use around here for tunning it? KB wants $400 for the canned tunes, I would think about anouther $150 I could buy a tuner and get it tuned on a set of rollers. KB still suggests that for my car being factory stock that their tunes are a very good and safe way to go.... but I'll chew on that one for a bit.

[Seer]

Originally Posted by Bumblebee2012

OK, talked to KB about my fear on the BAP. They claim that the factory pump is engineered for up to 20 volts at 100% duty cycle if submerged. The BAP pushes the pump to a max of 17.5 volts. He says that so long as you keep the car at or above a quarter tank, the pump will be entirely submerged and therefor not in jeapordy of thermal run away.

Pump and new filter ordered.

They're 100% correct. Also for other safety reasons, you should never run a boosted car below a 1/4 tank anyways. KB makes a few different boost a pumps for whatever your setup is.

Since the Shelby had dual pumps, I used to run the competition (20.5v) Dual 40amp BAP.

They make single BAPs in 17.5v and 20.5v which are 20amp and they make dual 40amp BAPs in the same voltage. All depends on how many pumps you are pushing.

ZL1 pump + BAP seems like a win win to me. I'd get the street (17.5v) since you aren't going to be pushing crazy numbers.

It's pretty self explanatory though, the single BAPs have a single input and output, the duals have two.

Although I'd say once you start to push over 700 at the tires, I'd look into a return setup.

[Trav2SS]

IMO I would go get a dyno tune, even if you have to drive to get that done somewhere too. It'll cost the same +/- and be better.. and a fun ride home