Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Roto-Fab
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Technical Camaro Topics > Camaro Issues / Problems | Warranty Discussions | TSB and Recalls


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 09-18-2019, 12:26 AM   #85
rackmaster
 
rackmaster's Avatar
 
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Summit White,
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 54
I replaced the battery, bought 2-starters, added the xtra ground cable. Nothing worked. When my car was hot it wouldn’t start. I replaced both the positive and Negative battery cables from the trunk all the way to the starter and it works perfect now. So there is a problem with the battery cables in these vehicles. It took a lot of work. Because the cables run inside your car. So you must remove your interior to get it done. But I have had absolutely no problems since then. And it’s been really hot this summer.
__________________
2011, L99 with an LS3 conversion, black custom gloss painted stripes, air brushed gills, blacked out rear, Lingenfelter GT-19 Cam 227/239 .678/688, Circle D 2,800 stall torque converter,twin inline transmission coolers custom made by ARD, Hartland sharp LS3 Rocker arm upgrade kit, Patroit gold Valve springs, Comp magum 5/16 x 7.400 push rods, Power bond under pully, Melling ls1 oil pump, MSD spark plug wires, Tune, Big Flow Headers, No Cats, Big Flow X-Pipe, Borla S exhaust, Cold Air Inductions-cold air
rackmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2019, 11:38 AM   #86
caper

 
Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal, I.E.
Posts: 1,467
Quote:
Originally Posted by rackmaster View Post
I replaced the battery, bought 2-starters, added the xtra ground cable. Nothing worked. When my car was hot it wouldn’t start. I replaced both the positive and Negative battery cables from the trunk all the way to the starter and it works perfect now. So there is a problem with the battery cables in these vehicles. It took a lot of work. Because the cables run inside your car. So you must remove your interior to get it done. But I have had absolutely no problems since then. And it’s been really hot this summer.
I did all that and more...I guess that's my next step. damn. you did this yourself? any tips? what all had to be pulled out? the car is useless unless this is resolved.
__________________
Turbonetics running 8lbs boost at 563/559 tuned by Cunningham installed by K&M w/cat-muffler delete, ACS splitter, Fesler GFX, MPD1 spoiler, Custom painted Rally stripes, Cordon CR1 wheels 275/315s, Hotchkiss comp sways and end links, Barton shifter
caper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2019, 12:11 PM   #87
camguynj


 
camguynj's Avatar
 
Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 NPP BRM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper View Post
I did all that and more...I guess that's my next step. damn. you did this yourself? any tips? what all had to be pulled out? the car is useless unless this is resolved.
fyi... there is no negative cable that runs from the trunk to the engine. The negative trunk cable is grounded to the trunk chassis then from the engine chassis to the engine block

You should consider adding a Bypass Cable to the underhood positive battery terminal before attempting to replace the entire positive cable. See post 84 in this thread
camguynj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2019, 12:17 PM   #88
caper

 
Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal, I.E.
Posts: 1,467
Quote:
Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
fyi... there is no negative cable that runs from the trunk to the engine. The negative trunk cable is grounded to the trunk chassis then from the engine chassis to the engine block

You should consider adding a Bypass Cable to the underhood positive battery terminal before attempting to replace the entire positive cable. See post 84 in this thread
already did the bypass, and also replaced the wire running from the junction to the starter. also have added a ground from engine to chassis. none fixed it for long.
__________________
Turbonetics running 8lbs boost at 563/559 tuned by Cunningham installed by K&M w/cat-muffler delete, ACS splitter, Fesler GFX, MPD1 spoiler, Custom painted Rally stripes, Cordon CR1 wheels 275/315s, Hotchkiss comp sways and end links, Barton shifter
caper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2019, 12:23 PM   #89
camguynj


 
camguynj's Avatar
 
Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 NPP BRM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper View Post
already did the bypass, and also replaced the wire running from the junction to the starter. also have added a ground from engine to chassis. none fixed it for long.
Did you try wrapping the starter? Also you may want to try adding a ground from the passenger side front chassis negative pigtail ground directly to the starter.
camguynj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2019, 12:36 PM   #90
caper

 
Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal, I.E.
Posts: 1,467
Quote:
Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
Did you try wrapping the starter? Also you may want to try adding a ground from the passenger side front chassis negative pigtail ground directly to the starter.
I did put a heat shield over the starter, but not wrapping it. it was getting very hot. ill try the other ground as well.
__________________
Turbonetics running 8lbs boost at 563/559 tuned by Cunningham installed by K&M w/cat-muffler delete, ACS splitter, Fesler GFX, MPD1 spoiler, Custom painted Rally stripes, Cordon CR1 wheels 275/315s, Hotchkiss comp sways and end links, Barton shifter
caper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2019, 01:40 PM   #91
CJ27
 
Drives: Chevrolet camaro zl1
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Tajas
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
You may want to try adding a Bypass Cable to the underhood positive battery terminal see posts 49 & 55 in this thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4
This resolved the starter heat soak hot start problem for almost every guy who still had the problem after having already added a 2nd ground and replacing the battery &
Use a 9" 1/0 gauge cable with 1" of each end's insulation stripped off, then join each end to the post cable using a #1/0 copper split bolt. You also need to strip some insulation from each side of the post cable where they’ll join. Then wrap each end split bolt connection with two different grades electrical tape for a secure insulated permanent connection. Don’t forget to DISCONNECT THE TRUNK NEGATIVE CABLE FIRST !!!

See post 64 in this thread for an explanation of why this provides more power to the starter https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...g#post10107568

Thanks for the help. Never had this issue until I did the btr stage 2 cam. I think it is the fuel in the fuel rails boiling not a voltage or amperage to the starter issue. This magnuson seems to get the rails hotter then the stock blowers do.
__________________
2014 Sliver ZL1. Magnuson, SW long tubes, AFCO H/E. 600rwhp
CJ27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2019, 03:01 PM   #92
camguynj


 
camguynj's Avatar
 
Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 NPP BRM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ27 View Post
Thanks for the help. Never had this issue until I did the btr stage 2 cam. I think it is the fuel in the fuel rails boiling not a voltage or amperage to the starter issue. This magnuson seems to get the rails hotter then the stock blowers do.
Wouldn't think fuel rail starvation would cause slow cranking. Still should consider adding a bypass cable to the positive jumper post cable.
camguynj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2019, 06:56 AM   #93
camguynj


 
camguynj's Avatar
 
Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 NPP BRM
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,956
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper View Post
I did put a heat shield over the starter, but not wrapping it. it was getting very hot. ill try the other ground as well.
Surprised you had to put a heat shield on as the starter comes from the factory with one FWIW.
If you’re not first owner maybe prior owner removed it or it got removed during turbo mod.
camguynj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-21-2019, 11:00 AM   #94
caper

 
Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal, I.E.
Posts: 1,467
Quote:
Originally Posted by camguynj View Post
Surprised you had to put a heat shield on as the starter comes from the factory with one FWIW.
If you’re not first owner maybe prior owner removed it or it got removed during turbo mod.
no, that was me. it was likely not put on during one of the 3 previous engine removals lol (now on 4)
__________________
Turbonetics running 8lbs boost at 563/559 tuned by Cunningham installed by K&M w/cat-muffler delete, ACS splitter, Fesler GFX, MPD1 spoiler, Custom painted Rally stripes, Cordon CR1 wheels 275/315s, Hotchkiss comp sways and end links, Barton shifter
caper is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:19 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.