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Old 02-28-2009, 07:52 AM   #43
Nexus6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gibb View Post
The more you rub the car the better it will be. Use a very fine rubbing compoud. I use 3m 5990 it is good stuff, I have Farecla fine compund it works well also. Very important, Put it on with an applicator that won't burn the paint. Sears have some right angle ones that work well. Doing it all at once with a high speed can be dangerous. After time the finish will smooth out. If you re-clear the car people will think it's been crashed regardless of what you say. They will ask why was the car painted, your answer will not convince them unless you are a man of the cloth


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Old 04-18-2009, 09:11 AM   #44
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Found this on the web, from the Meguiars site. Wanted your opinions. I want to polish her up today and want to make sure I don't screw it up. I have 3M Performance Finish #39030.

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A new car with a factory paint job can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. Cars that have factory paint jobs are cured at much higher temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens. At a factory level, the car goes through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the car and it's fresh paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level insures the paint is fully cured by the time the car is completely assembled.
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