Officially a 2015 ZL1 Owner!

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by Ls_Camaro

Been a little while since I’ve heard from you man. Car is looking really good! I saw your YouTube channel and loved the editing.

Hey thanks man! Yeah been busy working a lot of hours! I’m gonna try to post my questions and updates on this post to keep anyone who cares updated!

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by Smitty CC

well its just my opinion and everyone has one, we all have our ideas on how to get there …. but you certainly can get close with the right set up. The stage 1 cam wouldn't change the stock setup enough. Having about 500 whp out of the box the set up is strong for mods too. and to get where you want to go will probably need some beefy mods. As I look at this site and some past builds I see lots of similar product builds and the choices made in performance. There mostly is a consensus on how aggressive you would need to be at for those numbers. They usually even show their dyno slips.

Touché. I’m shooting for definitely over 700 wheel. I’ve spoke with a few diff people with builds and tuners. They said 720-750 was for sure achievable w/ my mod list. I’ve surfed the forums, YouTube, the whole 9 doing research. I’ll be happy with anything north of 700. My original goal was To crack 800. But like I said when I talked to tuners and other build owners. I realized it would take more, TB, porting, heads, etc. I’m not trying to go too far. So I’ll stick with my current mods, plus, cam, e85 and 10.0” pulley for 28% OD, And be happy with whatever I get over 700.

[Astatenate]

Hey guys. Installing 3in1 (AFR/ Boost/ Ethanol %) AEM gauge today. The WB bung got welded up this morning. So I’ll just need to route the plug to the Bosch sensor. The rest is mostly wiring (ground / hot wires) but where is the ideal location for me to plug the boost like to? Any pics of where anyone is running their boost line to?

[Astatenate]

Got AEM gauge installed guys! Will post pics soon! Looks very OEM! I looked into nGauge and AeroForce. But I ended up going with a 3in1 AEM failsafe (AFR / Boost / Ethanol % when I go e85 in near future) I found a perfect spot for the T fitting for boost. All is working well.

My friend and I did notice the isolator is making a noise. The original SC was replaced 4K miles prior to me buying it. I’ve put right under 1k miles on it. So 5k on a new SC. And noise is barely there. But there. I’m looking into a solid isolator. Any good reputable brands? I looked at one directly from Eaton for all LSA (ZL1 / CTS-V) applications. And it’s about $60. And will prob replace it when I do reinforced IC brick, pulley swap and fueling when I go next round of mods.

[GONMAD510]

I went with the Lingenfelter solid isolator part number L960202012. No issues with it at all.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by GONMAD510

I went with the Lingenfelter solid isolator part number L960202012. No issues with it at all.

Is it true the entire SC needs to come off to pull snout and replace? But upper pulley is untouched? How long is the job? My friend is a Chevy tech. So we got a lift and the tools. Just not sure if it’s worth waiting until I do lower pulley, e85, injectors and cam.

[JB'sZL1]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Is it true the entire SC needs to come off to pull snout and replace? But upper pulley is untouched? How long is the job? My friend is a Chevy tech. So we got a lift and the tools. Just not sure if it’s worth waiting until I do lower pulley, e85, injectors and cam.

Yes. The isolator is inside the sc snout side, so you just remove the whole snout assembly, and there's your isolator. I'd say a 6 hour job.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Yes. The isolator is inside the sc snout side, so you just remove the whole snout assembly, and there's your isolator. I'd say a 6 hour job.

I have paperwork from dealership where the entire SC was replaced. Just 5k miles ago. I was under the impression that the isolator in the new SC would be a solid one. And that the 14-15’ models were already equipped with a solid isolator. But I def heard the notorious marble sound last night with hood popped when T’ing in for my boost lines with car running. So I went ahead and ordered a solid isolator.

[HDRDTD]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

I have paperwork from dealership where the entire SC was replaced. Just 5k miles ago. I was under the impression that the isolator in the new SC would be a solid one. And that the 14-15’ models were already equipped with a solid isolator. But I def heard the notorious marble sound last night with hood popped when T’ing in for my boost lines with car running. So I went ahead and ordered a solid isolator.

From what I remember, the first SC's came with a dry spring loaded coupler, then Eaton (manufacturer of the SC) went to a solid coupler after people complained. Later, Eaton returned to the spring loaded coupler but this time packed it with grease?

When the original TSB came out, it stated that the 'marble' sound was normal at idle, but should go away as the engine was reved to around 1500rpm.
If the noise remained, they would replace the entire SC as a unit and send the bad one back to Eaton. If you had already changed to a solid coupler on your dime, GM would reimburse you for the cost.

Either way, the replaced SC come with a 120,000 mile warranty I believe.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

From what I remember, the first SC's came with a dry spring loaded coupler, then Eaton (manufacturer of the SC) went to a solid coupler after people complained. Later, Eaton returned to the spring loaded coupler but this time packed it with grease?

When the original TSB came out, it stated that the 'marble' sound was normal at idle, but should go away as the engine was reved to around 1500rpm.
If the noise remained, they would replace the entire SC as a unit and send the bad one back to Eaton. If you had already changed to a solid coupler on your dime, GM would reimburse you for the cost.

Either way, the replaced SC come with a 120,000 mile warranty I believe.

Hmm okay. It was a 1 owner car. The dealership I bought it from replaced the SC at 34,xxx It now has 40,xxx on it. So does that mean my SC is still under warranty? If it’s already been replaced under warranty. I haven’t put a solid isolator in it. But I want to just because, it’s gonna be a persistent problem obviously. I was under the impression it would be replaced w/ a solid one. But if what you state is true. It’s probably just another band aid fix.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

Hmm okay. It was a 1 owner car. The dealership I bought it from replaced the SC at 34k. It now has 40k on it. So does that mean my SC is still under warranty? If it’s already been replaced under warranty. I haven’t put a solid isolator in it. But I want to just because, it’s gonna be a persistent problem obviously. I was under the impression it would be replaced w/ a solid one. But if what you state is true. It’s probably just another band aid fix.

Supercharger is good for 10 years 100k, doesnt matter how many times replaced, but you could have an issue if its modded.

[ZMEnow]

Originally Posted by Astatenate

I have paperwork from dealership where the entire SC was replaced. Just 5k miles ago. I was under the impression that the isolator in the new SC would be a solid one. And that the 14-15’ models were already equipped with a solid isolator. But I def heard the notorious marble sound last night with hood popped when T’ing in for my boost lines with car running. So I went ahead and ordered a solid isolator.

You can quickly check, just take a 1/4 inch socket and put in in the 1/4 hole on the tensioner and pull it back just enough to slacken the serp belt. rotate the upper pulley back and forth with your other hand, if it rocks back and forth its not a solid.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

Supercharger is good for 10 years 100k, doesnt matter how many times replaced, but you could have an issue if its modded.

I have a local service advisor friend and Chevy tech friend who would be doing the work. I had a 3 month / 3,000 mile warranty from the dealer I bought the car. I had already done headers, intake and corsa with a tune. And fuel pump was “beginning to fail” my tuner said. And Was still covered. So that’s not an issue. I just thought the SC warranty after replaced once. Was over. Or 100k mile warranty Was only for the original owner. If I could get them to cover the SC replacement, my tech friend could replace with a new SC and install the solid isolator at that time. If so.

[Astatenate]

Originally Posted by ZMEnow

You can quickly check, just take a 1/4 inch socket and put in in the 1/4 hole on the tensioner and pull it back just enough to slacken the serp belt. rotate the upper pulley back and forth with your other hand, if it rocks back and forth its not a solid.

Okay I’ll do that now!

Update: just had my girlfriend hold the 1/2 wrench. I could rotate it like normal. No noise. I tried pulling back and forth. Towards the front bumper and push back towards engine. No play at all. I just ordered a solid isolator. But it appears I already have one. So I wonder where the noise is coming from.. :(

I also revved motor to about 1500-2000 rpm and girlfriend said the noise didn’t go away nor did it get louder. I’ll be calling my tech & service advisor friend in the morning.