Control Arm replacement and diagram request

[NJBourne23]

So I hit a curb and bent my front drivers side rearward control arm. I put a new tire on that day and it's already failing inspection. So i bought a Moog front rearward control arm, watched some videos and hoping to get it switched this weekend. The more I search online though the more i question. Do I have the right control arm? I went off what the shop wrote and showed me but does anyone have a diagram showing the under body and labels of certain parts more in particular the control arms? I read in another thread that if I use the same bolts, that they will need to be made very tight but do I still need a torque wrench? Someone stated, "good and tight"

If anyone can help me out by informing me or pointing me to a good source of info that would be appreciated. I am trying to do more on my car since I am not an endless wallet and I want to just learn how to do this stuff properly.

I was originally quoted ~$120 for the part and ~$250 for the install but i bought the part for $52 from advanced auto parts. I don't mind giving shops my business but I find many to be a sham just looking to line their pockets. Not all but many I have seen.

I have a 2010 2LT RS so yes it is a V6, yes i am happy with it and if you can help that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys/gals

[NJBourne23]

I found this on superchevy.com but it appears that the rearward control arm look like the Radius Rod?

[gtstorey]

pointing me to a good source of info

Factory Service manual
https://www.helminc.com/helm/product...CHV&Sku=GMP10F

Will need an alignment after install.

[NJBourne23]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

Factory Service manual
https://www.helminc.com/helm/product...CHV&Sku=GMP10F

Will need an alignment after install.

I'll need one after i put the new tires on anyway so i'll do the control arm then tires and finally the alignment. Thanks for the link

[hesster]

NJ -
The nomenclature for the (2) Front Arms is indeed confusing - the Front Radius Rod (Frt LCA Rear, smaller Bushing), and the Frt LCA (Frt LCA Frt with Large Bushing).
So, first make sure you ONLY Bent the Rear Control Arm, as if that is bent, then you may have issues with the Frt LCA also, or bent the pocket where it attach's in the Front Sub Frame. The Frt LCA is the larger one with a bend in it and much larger bushing. And also inspect the Tie Rod. R&R on the Frt LCA is more involved cause the Bushing Bolt is difficult to access.
Doing the work yourself will be a challenge, but not impossible with the right tools. Don't forget the Control Arm Bushing Bolts are TTY fasteners.

I am not sure if the V6 suspension uses the same Control Arms or Bolts as my SS (I think they are the same), so this info here can be used as reference. https://www.nationalgmparts.com/v-20...ont-suspension

Suspension Disassembly - Front of the vehicle
o Loosen all wheel nuts.
o Jack up the car and support securely. Pick jack stand points in the underbody that allow access to all fasteners and connections. Make sure the car is secure.
o Remove the Wheel/Tire. Jack up the Hub/Rotor slightly.
o Remove the Front Radius Rod (Frt LCA Rear, smaller Bushing) outer ball joint nut with a 21mm socket or wrench. It should not rotate. Hit the end with a hammer to pop it out. Try not to bugger up the threads, leave the nut on flush with the end of the stud.
o Remove the Front Radius Rod (Frt LCA Rear, smaller Bushing) Inner Mounting Bolt and Nut from the frame rail using a 21mm socket and wrench.

Front Suspension Assembly -
Front Radius Rod (Front Lower Control Arm Rear) - Bushing (The Arm with the smaller Bushing) Stuff it into the Sub Frame and loose install the bolt and nut. It is a TTY Bolt. Radius Rod at Bushing Bolt #11589357 @ 37 lbft 120 degrees (on a SS). Radius Rod at Knuckle Ball Joint NUT 18 lbft 120 degrees (reuse Nut).
Note: Bushing Timing- With the weight of the car on the wheels (or the rotor/Hub fully jacked up) tighten the nuts/bolts to spec.