Budget

[enroberts]

Hey guys. I have a few questions about what changes should be made. I have an m6 ls3 car with the only current change being Magnaflow cat back currently on the car. Everything else is stock now. On the workbench is a Magnacharger 2300 waiting to be installed. My question is, what else should I upgrade? I've got about $3k left to dump into the car. I want to stay below 600rwhp for now as I don't want to start replacing everything from the clutch to the axles. I thought about a ps1 Comp cam, zl1 pump, and springs with a strut tower brace but all that would force me to get a clutch (I think). After a clutch I'd be over my $3k limit and have nothing left for the tune. Can you all give some feedbac while keeping my budget in mind? Am I being reasonable?

[dan0617]

Put the money in ZL1 pump, ADM FPCM, LT Headers, cat delete, a good tune, clutch, rear alignment and drag radials.

[Unreal]

Focus on fuel, tuning and drivetrain. No need to do a cam/stb/etc.

[BullF-16]

I'd go with LT headers, fuel system, and competent tune. You dont need a clutch yet. I drove mine at 637rwhp for 6500 miles and the clutch was fine upon inspection when i did upgrade it. Just dont go dumping the clutch at 4k rpms and it and everything else will last. Save the extra money and add to the the mod fund for future HP increases....WHICH YOU WILL WANT!

If you add sticky tires then you may have issues with drivetrain components.

What are you doing with the car....street car, strip car....goals etc

Keep the clutch fluid clean and you should not have the standard issues of the clutch sticking at the bottom.

[Iam Broke]

I agree with Bull, clutch is good to 650 whp on mine.

[2010SSRSM6]

The factory clutch will survive as long as it needs to if you don't beat the snot out of it. I've seen the factory clutch hold 650rwhp for over 15k miles before it was replaced (not needed, but wanted).

With that being said, go with either a ZL1 pump and ADM FPCM/twin pump setup, a good set of LT headers, larger fuel injectors and a CAI that will work with the Maggie. (CAI or Rotofab are two of the most common).

Unless you are doing all the work yourself, you $3000 budget won't allow you to get a cam installed. If you are doing the work yourself, add a cam and upgrade the springs to dual coil springs. Brian Tooley Racing and Patriot are the first two that I would look into.

Who are you looking at having your car tuned by? Have you asked them to spec a cam for you? If you do the cam swap you will likely not be able to drive the car in for a tune and will need to keep that in mind.

If you plan on adding either OD or 1:1 cog drive pulleys to the back of the maggie, do it while its on the bench before the inital install. You may want to look into the RDS spacer prior to doing the install as well if you plan on drag or road racing on a regular basis.

[Bo White]

Yep, factory clutch is good until you have sticky tires and a sticky track and try to leave above 2000rpm. Keep your clutch fluid clean and the clutch will last you a while.

[blake-b]

You don't need a strut tower brace.

[Spartan01]

The strut tower brace will not fit a 2010 unless you drill holes...

Get the separate clutch fluid reservoir from JDP, very easy simple mod, separates the clutch fluid from the brake fluid.

[Bill@RaceProvenMotorsports]

If you need any help, please feel free to give me shout.

[enroberts]

Wow all awesome stuff here. So I've sort of decided to start back at square one again after digging around last night on the web. Let's say I return the Maggie and just have the stock car with the Magnaflow cat back system installed. If you had $8300 and wanted to get close to 600rwhp, what would you do? I will be doing all work myself (minus the tune which I will tow the Camaro in for) and would like to have a really solid street car that I can take to the strip maybe twice a year for some fun. Not looking for anything really nuts requiring major drive train upgrades to fix/prevent failures, just a solid fun power plant. Ideas? Do I keep the Maggie? Should I be looking into a package like East Coast Supercharging has with a centrifugal type SC (ECS SC1500)? I'm all ears!

[Unreal]

Twin kit. $7500 with pump/injectors. Add a boost control and meth kit. Solid 700-750rwhp, ability to turn it up or down, if you want 900rwhp later just add the motor/mods to support it. No adding cams, belts, pulleys, tensioners, headers, etc. If you want 600rwhp just turn it down.

[BullF-16]

Buy once cry once. I have explored all avenues for 3 years. Headers to start, then cam and tune, then D1sc and moderate hp at 637whp then 715 whp with pulley down/meth and tune and twin LPE pumps.....blown motor 6 weeks later(my experiment seeing how hard i could drive it before it blew). Then LSX race motor by HKE with D1SC at 758whp(this was really fun but my motor was way undertasked!)

After all that my car is almost done with a custom twin turbo setup and will easily be 1100whp at moderate 20psi boost.


Do yourself a favor.....AGP twin turbo kit. This will alllow you all the room you need to grow in the futrue. 600whp easily now and up to 1000whp with proper fueling later.....but you gotta mod everything else when above 750ish.

Learn from those who have gone before you!

Its your choice though...good luck!

[AGP Turbo]

+1 on TT kit.
Super easy 650whp on pump gas just bolting it on. And easy to turn up for 1000whp later if you want to keep modding the car.