1st road course upgrade?

[Avenging Orange]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

The 2010 has the older design sway bar/control arm FE3 setup. That's where I would start. At least update to FE4.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398746

Agreed. Change from inferior inboard mounted sway to a much better outboard one. Add some better dampers and cradle bushings. Be a good start.

[BMR Sales]

Silverado is asking for the 1st Upgrades as he is just getting started in this, not Spend every nickel he has.

Is the FE4 Bar better, yes. But it's not like he doesn't have a swaybar now. A Rear FE4 Bar, LCAs and Endlinks is going be around $800.

I would suggest that Drivers grow into their cars vs trying to wrestle something that is over their head.

As a Driving Instructor with over 30 Years of experience, people need to go to Driving events with their Egos set aside and try to have fun. It can be intimidating and then it can hook you!

[gtstorey]

LCA 2x$40
Sway bar links 2x$20
gm performance suspension bar 1x$122

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-p...omponents-scat

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-p...uspension-scat

plus shipping and maybe sway bar bushings.

I hated the way mine turned until I updated to the FE4.

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

LCA 2x$40
Sway bar links 2x$20
gm performance suspension bar 1x$122

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-p...omponents-scat

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/auto-p...uspension-scat

plus shipping and maybe sway bar bushings.

I hated the way mine turned until I updated to the FE4.

Thanks! That isn’t bad priced!

[olblue75]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

Silverado is asking for the 1st Upgrades as he is just getting started in this, not Spend every nickel he has.

Is the FE4 Bar better, yes. But it's not like he doesn't have a swaybar now. A Rear FE4 Bar, LCAs and Endlinks is going be around $800.

I would suggest that Drivers grow into their cars vs trying to wrestle something that is over their head.

As a Driving Instructor with over 30 Years of experience, people need to go to Driving events with their Egos set aside and try to have fun. It can be intimidating and then it can hook you!

I agree with you to some degree and not to take away from your experience, but I did a HPDE in a stocker and honestly thought it sucked I knew there was so much more possible, so by adding a good set of sway bars or better brakes I don’t think the OP will be disappointed in his car. Not saying go second mortgage the farm but a 1000 once every 6 months to a year wouldn’t seem unreasonable either.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Not saying go second mortgage the farm but a 1000 once every 6 months to a year wouldn’t seem unreasonable either.

Agreed

Once you get hooked, you will be Spending Benjamins!

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Silverado60

I'm in central pa near Raystown lake

Which track do you go to? I'm in Johnstown and Pitt Race is my home track. I think I have about 24+ track days there in my '14 1LE.

-Solid Cradle mounts are a great upgrade, go solid for sure, I did the AFE/Pfadt. But you can wait to do these after you, the driver, get better.

-Your 2010 will benefit from some simple mods. Matching anti-roll bars (ARB) for sure, make sure you get the newer rear style LCA for the more readily available (and better) ARBs. The 1LE bars or more expensive DSE bars are proven on track. The ZL1/1LE/Z/28 rear arms are an inexpensive upgrade that makes your 2010 more responsive and stable. Realistically If you just did a complete 1LE suspension, your car will be transformed. And it is already sorted out and GM proven. Knowing that your setup is proven will give you confidence to learn without compromises.

-Brakes. C7 ZO6/GS non carbon ceramic calipers have vented pistons. They run cooler, keeps the heat in the pad and rotor. And you'll use the Gen5 ZL1 2 piece rotor. It's a proven setup. Just get some cooling too. DOT4 fluid is a must, keep it fresh. Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC-64T, best insurance you can buy. Depending on your track, Motul may not be enough.

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Which track do you go to? I'm in Johnstown and Pitt Race is my home track. I think I have about 24+ track days there in my '14 1LE.

-Solid Cradle mounts are a great upgrade, go solid for sure, I did the AFE/Pfadt. But you can wait to do these after you, the driver, get better.

-Your 2010 will benefit from some simple mods. Matching anti-roll bars (ARB) for sure, make sure you get the newer rear style LCA for the more readily available (and better) ARBs. The 1LE bars or more expensive DSE bars are proven on track. The ZL1/1LE/Z/28 rear arms are an inexpensive upgrade that makes your 2010 more responsive and stable. Realistically If you just did a complete 1LE suspension, your car will be transformed. And it is already sorted out and GM proven. Knowing that your setup is proven will give you confidence to learn without compromises.

-Brakes. C7 ZO6/GS non carbon ceramic calipers have vented pistons. They run cooler, keeps the heat in the pad and rotor. And you'll use the Gen5 ZL1 2 piece rotor. It's a proven setup. Just get some cooling too. DOT4 fluid is a must, keep it fresh. Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC-64T, best insurance you can buy. Depending on your track, Motul may not be enough.

I went to pitt race in July for my first time on track. We had a great time and will definitely go back but I’m going to Pocono sept 14.
Thanks for the advice. I do think getting better with my current setup should be first.
Im hoping the NT05s are a noticeable improvement over the all season pirellis

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by Silverado60

I went to pitt race in July for my first time on track. We had a great time and will definitely go back but I’m going to Pocono sept 14.
Thanks for the advice. I do think getting better with my current setup should be first.
Im hoping the NT05s are a noticeable improvement over the all season pirellis

It's easy to overdrive with a setup that is less than optimal. Keep your eyes up, be smooth with your inputs, and don't turn in too early.

Were you in advanced group? I saw a black or blue Gen5. Search me out if you want at the next TNiA. I'm already signed up for the 9/2 event. There is also an event 9/30. Check out my build thread for some videos from Pitt Race.

[hammdo]

Castrol SRF Brake fluid and a full flush.

As they say - driver mod first. I’ve done a ton of mods to mine and I’ve learned that I should have started simple, learn the car.

Fresh fluid is a great start - if this is your first go at road course... after that you can go crazy. I did every suspension mod out there - including 6th gen radius rods for more caster...

You name it, I probably have it...

-Don

[Silverado60]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It's easy to overdrive with a setup that is less than optimal. Keep your eyes up, be smooth with your inputs, and don't turn in too early.

Were you in advanced group? I saw a black or blue Gen5. Search me out if you want at the next TNiA. I'm already signed up for the 9/2 event. There is also an event 9/30. Check out my build thread for some videos from Pitt Race.

No I was in the novice group. (July 8) I was parked beside a z28 in the novice paddock
Learning the track at Pitt is going to take a few times since there are so many blind turns. I also haven’t figured out how deep to drive the car before braking

[skip_168]

Originally Posted by SS Performance

Brakes

Brakes...

[spyderbuddy]

Originally Posted by SS Performance

Brakes

x's 2