2010 Camaro - BRAKE, ABS, & TCS ON - Odometer not racking up miles.

['10CamaroDude]

This is an intermittent issue.

I drove the car home from the dealer over 150 miles, with no issues THUR.
The next day? ALL KINDS of problems. However the main one is these
lights and the odometer not working. Speedometer works, but not the
ODO, Trip 1&2, and all Average Speed, & MPG calculations; they all have lines
through them. The TCS light came on first, then the other two a second later
with the dinging.

It was on since Friday, then went off when I started it Sunday evening.
About 60 miles into my work route, they came back on. I put 600 miles on the
car, total, and only 261 miles have registered on the odometer.

Last time this happened it was a Trans Control module, with Limp mode, but
the trans works fine.

I did search Yahoo, Google, Bing, and I can't find it for this car, but
can for others. They all say wheel sensors, but I doubt the Odometer
would stop working with bad wheel sensors. I have had bad wheel
Sensors, and it never effected the speed-o, or Odo, just the ABS and
TCS functionality.

So, anyhow, there it is...

['10CamaroDude]

On 11/26/19, 3:27AM, the lights went out.

The cluster was not updated with the miles put on, it began to rack up the miles
from 129262. So, there is nothing else counting the miles when this happens. The
ECU nor BCM updated the miles in the cluster.


I put 900+ miles on the car from 129001, and the odometer is at 129410


Just some information is this, is all. So far, though I have not driven it since,
the lights have stayed off.

[TommyTheCat]

getting the codes read is step #1

or drive it a couple hundred thousand miles and sell it as a low mileage vehicle lol

['10CamaroDude]

The codes read where a bunch of "U" CODE - "Lost Communications With":
ECM, TCM, BCM, ABS, and so on. Still should not effect the odometer, else anyone can
induce one of these problems and fraud the millage.

Charge voltage was pegged at 15.3, which is the field limit of the Alternator?
I put vice grips on the negatgive battery cable crimp, and force-crimped it down, and
then down again; made the crimp tighter. Battery charge voltages now reads a steady
13.8 from a 14.5 high, when 15.3 was high prior. I plan to pull that negative cable,
and solder the wires to the crimp using a torch and solder. I know battery issues can cause
a lot of electronics failures in these newer module controlled cars.

However, the battery damage was already done. Two places tested the battery, both
came up "Replace Battery Now." 15.3V for the prolonged time, who knows how long,
damaged the battery.

[TommyTheCat]

Yeah communication codes suck to check.

Under the hood on the passenger side there is a TSB for the harness rubbing and tearing wires which will cause communication problems, but I can't remember where exactly it was. I'd start there

['10CamaroDude]

Originally Posted by TommyTheCat

Yeah communication codes suck to check.

Under the hood on the passenger side there is a TSB for the harness rubbing and tearing wires which will cause communication problems, but I can't remember where exactly it was. I'd start there

I will look into that. The lights went off on Monday. I parked the car because
there is a fuel leak, and as it turns out, a bad radiator cap. Yesterday, I was
idling the car to test the coolant system, new upper rad hose, and the new CAP,
the lights came back on. First the TCS light, with a bong, then a second later
the Brake and ABS. Turned the car off, then back on, they were off. I put
800+ miles on the car from 129001, and it's up to 129415 now.

I was blowing coolant out the over-flow reservoir, because the cap was letting
coolant by, and there was NO pressure in the system. You could squeeze the
hoses. The upper was already pancaked, that needed replaced.

Here was the CAP issue:



This is what the Upper rad hose looked like:





Now I have this to deal with:

Nice fuel leak, and seems it's common, but can't find the FIX.

['10CamaroDude]

OKAY, here is what I found out about the BRK/ABS/TCS problem!

On 11/01/19 I wrote elsewhere:
When I bought the car, I got home with a check engine light. I have one of
those Micro Mechanic ELM327 adapters that I used to read the codes,
which have me the purge valve, and two Catalyst codes. From this point
on, I left the dongle plugged in, as I did with all my other cars with no
issues. I started the car, and the lights came on. Since I left the thing
plugged in, I had this as an intermittent problem; they'd go out, they'd
come back on.

At the end of last week, I removed the dongle after resetting the DTCs,
the lights went out. I read the codes again, and as Carista was connecting
the lights came back on, it said that dash lights coming on is normal. Read
and cleared the codes, left the dongle in, the lights stayed on. Removed it
Sunday, the lights were out.

So, this morning, on my way home from work, while in motion, something
told me to plug this device in. So, I plugged it back in, and almost
immediately, the TCS light came on, there was a pause, then the Brake and
ABS lights came on. So, solved that issue.

Here is the RUB, for you; when these lights are on, caused by the OBDII
device, and plugged in or not, as long as the lights are on? The odometer
is DISABLED! The miles are displayed, but there is no accumulation.

No, they are not stored anywhere else. I put over 1800 miles on this car
since 129001 miles, and I just turned 130,000 today. The odometer was
not updated the six times the system reset, and was normal. Counting
began where it left off, each time the system reset.

I also noticed when I plugged it in once, with the car running, all the
needles went back to rest position, then to where they were supposed to
be. Somehow, this ELM327 adapter causes a disturbance on the CAN bus,
but DOES read and reset the DTCs from the ECU. I had one do this on my
Mustang, while plugged in, it would randomly shut the cluster down, and
the odometer would be all dashes like I was tuning it, but it did not effect
the odometer. I tossed that adapter anyway.

So, completely by accident, I found a way to shut the odometer down on
the 2010 V6 Camaros. This also shuts down the calculations and trip
counters. SO, on a long trip? Plug 'er in, and keep the miles off. Not sure
on what year range this works, or if it's just mine. So, find yourself one of
those Micro Mechanic OBDII readers, and give it a shot.

I think maybe Chevy should be made aware of this, because if this is a
glitch caused by a certain brand of ELM327 adapters, anyone can fraud
their odometer.

[TommyTheCat]

Originally Posted by '10CamaroDude

OKAY, here is what I found out about the BRK/ABS/TCS problem!

On 11/01/19 I wrote elsewhere:
When I bought the car, I got home with a check engine light. I have one of
those Micro Mechanic ELM327 adapters that I used to read the codes,
which have me the purge valve, and two Catalyst codes. From this point
on, I left the dongle plugged in, as I did with all my other cars with no
issues. I started the car, and the lights came on. Since I left the thing
plugged in, I had this as an intermittent problem; they'd go out, they'd
come back on.

At the end of last week, I removed the dongle after resetting the DTCs,
the lights went out. I read the codes again, and as Carista was connecting
the lights came back on, it said that dash lights coming on is normal. Read
and cleared the codes, left the dongle in, the lights stayed on. Removed it
Sunday, the lights were out.

So, this morning, on my way home from work, while in motion, something
told me to plug this device in. So, I plugged it back in, and almost
immediately, the TCS light came on, there was a pause, then the Brake and
ABS lights came on. So, solved that issue.

Here is the RUB, for you; when these lights are on, caused by the OBDII
device, and plugged in or not, as long as the lights are on? The odometer
is DISABLED! The miles are displayed, but there is no accumulation.

No, they are not stored anywhere else. I put over 1800 miles on this car
since 129001 miles, and I just turned 130,000 today. The odometer was
not updated the six times the system reset, and was normal. Counting
began where it left off, each time the system reset.

I also noticed when I plugged it in once, with the car running, all the
needles went back to rest position, then to where they were supposed to
be. Somehow, this ELM327 adapter causes a disturbance on the CAN bus,
but DOES read and reset the DTCs from the ECU. I had one do this on my
Mustang, while plugged in, it would randomly shut the cluster down, and
the odometer would be all dashes like I was tuning it, but it did not effect
the odometer. I tossed that adapter anyway.

So, completely by accident, I found a way to shut the odometer down on
the 2010 V6 Camaros. This also shuts down the calculations and trip
counters. SO, on a long trip? Plug 'er in, and keep the miles off. Not sure
on what year range this works, or if it's just mine. So, find yourself one of
those Micro Mechanic OBDII readers, and give it a shot.

I think maybe Chevy should be made aware of this, because if this is a
glitch caused by a certain brand of ELM327 adapters, anyone can fraud
their odometer.

interesting, you should try this on another v6 2010-2011 camaro. 2012+ has a different computer.

['10CamaroDude]

I don't know anyone around who has a 5th gen at all. Also, the place I got mine
from got a 2011 Transformers Edition, like 2-weeks later. Had I known...

['10CamaroDude]

Latest update:

Them 1:07PM:
They worked extra long today to finish this car for me. They did not do
anything with TPMS and the light is off. 45 degrees out. I am going to drive
it all weekend and look and smell for exhaust, and check engine light. I will
keep you updated throughout the weekend as to what your car does.
Starting mileage with no light in 131279.

Me 3:55PM: I will want a copy or copies of the work order(s), and parts used.

Them:
Dude I’m just trying to help you out.


I should have just taken the car back, and been done with it.