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Old 03-19-2016, 10:47 PM   #1
kingbow
 
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Smile V8 Camaro SeaFoam Top-end Cleaning Method

Original thread was me asking a question on what people did to clean the top-end on their V8 Camaros. I own a 2010 Camaro 2SS with L99 with 64k miles so I decided to perform a cleaning. The previous owner didn't seem the type to do this.

This isn't a tutorial, 'right way', or anything of that type. It's just the methodology I did to performing a SeaFoam top-end cleaning on my Camaro. I combined the three most popular ways of cleaning the intake valves/intake manifold/ top-end together as nobody could agree on what was right. It was either entering through X wouldn't reach all the cylinders or that the fluids did jack and the foam sprays were where it was at.

--------------------------------------------
Parts:

Chevron Complete Fuel System Cleaner 20 oz
http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-.../dp/B00092893E

SeaFoam DeepCreep
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

SeaFoam Spray
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

SeaFoam reg Motor Treatment
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01

1 - Chevron Fuel Cleaning:

I did these 'presteps' about a week before the actual concentrated top-end cleaning. You don't have to. This bottle was on sale and my tank was out of gas so it happened.

Pre1: Get a bottle of fuel additive based top-end cleaner like the Chevron listed above and drive the car until tank is nearly empty. Keep the bottle and a few paper towels in your trunk the week you do this. You'll be without the bottle when you run out of fuel if you didn't put it there.

Pre2: While at gas station and before fueling, shake up the contents of the bottle and then dump it all directly into gas tank.

Pre3: Don't look too sketchy while you are dumping the bottle into your tank at a gas station in public.

Pre4: Fill up halfway on Premium and dispose of empty container at gas station so your carpet doesn't get oiled up.

Pre5: The removal tab on the bottle gave your fingers a slight oily sheen to it and the pump spread it around while you handled it. Walk over to the complimentary windshield wiper stations with the wiper tool and fluid in the bucket. While grabbing the wiper tool, dip your oiled hands in the fluid and then casually proceed to clean your windshields. Remember the paper towels you brought, now you can use those to clean your hands off. Because it's a Camaro. That's why.

2 - SeaFoam Top-end Cleaning:

These are the edited methodology I performed the day I did a top-end cleaning. Again, you don't need to follow it to the T or at all. It's just me sharing my positive experience and providing future viewers some info if they want.

1: With car off, and cold, I'llproceed to pop the hood and get my toolset and cleaning supplies ready. I take the engine oil cap off and the decorative engine cover is removed. The cap is replaced after the cover is gone to prevent contamination. Then first order of business is to take off part of the cold air intake that I have to gain access to the throttle body.

2: I found the right nut size easilly and took off the 4 locking screws to the throttle body (TB). There's nothing special about the screws or way you have to do it. The cable connected to the TB has to be removed before you pull the unit out. Once that is done, you can simply pull out straight and the TB is yours. The bluish-green gasket used is a long-term type that doesn't need replacement every time you remove the TB.

3: Using SeaFoam DeepCreep, I soaked the TB plate and inner body housing of both sides and waited about 2 minutes. Then some more was sprayed at the carbon grimed areas followed quickly this time by clean towels. The carbon was rubbed off and cleaned. The TB was then re-installed and locked in cross pattern to original tightness. NOTE: You can not fully open the TB plate while it is disconnected and without power due to the internal gears used. It will move slightly but not fully 'open'. Don't apply too much pressure when cleaning the plate or you may damage the gear. Also try to avoid spraying any part of the cable connector. It's not horrible to but it's best not to.

4: Air intake pipe will be re-connected (never fully removed) and I will turn on car and take a short drive to warm it up so gauges show normal operating temp and then drive it back home to my driveway. I personally did a 20 minute trip around downtown.

5: I get back home and turn the car off. I let the car cool with hood up for 5 minutes as I will need to re-interface close to engine again. After waiting those minutes, I remove the TB boot clamp that attaches the TB to the air intake pipe like I did earlier. The SeaFoam Spray is now taken out. The straw and bend will have to be re-adjusted so that, like the instructions say, the straw at least a 1/4" from the TB plate. I made mine 1/2" for comfort. The boot is re-attached with the straw and bend stuck in between. The clamp is moderately tightened to keep things in place.

6: My assistant starts car up and keeps engine at around 2,000 rpm. Now I start the spray and hold down the nozzle for 4 second intervals and waiting 2 seconds after each hold. I do this until spray is 3/4 empty. (Instructions say to use full can).

7: With car still on, I'll take off the brake booster line Now, using the SeaFoam reg Motor Treatment, I'll slowly pour it down the funnel in gulps and tiny streams while taking care not to let the car stall. This will be done until 1/4 the can is gone. I let the brake booster line stay disconnected until I finish as it doesn't cause any issues or do anything.

8: Back at the TB with the bend straw attached. I remove the SeaFoam Spray and attach the can of SeaFoam DeepCreep to it. Many members recommended using this as well with the spray to provide lubrication. It also has carbon cleaning capabilities noted on the list of what DeepCreep can do besides lubrication. DeepCreep is stated to work better to hotter a material is which is why it is used now. 1/4 of the can is used in the same procedure as the SeaFoam Spray earlier with 4 seconds holding and 2 second wait alternations.

9: I re-attach the SeaFoam Spray and use up the rest of the can as the instructions recommended. It is then disconnected. I then re-attach the DeepCreep and spray again but this time only for about 5 seconds and then disconnect that can as well. Now we wait 20s and then I have my assistant turn the car off. SeaFoam recommends to let the car run for another 1 minute after the can/treatment is finished while online users like shutting off immediately. I found a middle ground.

10: We re-connected the brake-booster, removed the bend straw, and put most of the components back into order. Before the air-intake pipe is re-clamped to the TB again however, I gave the TB plate itself a final last quick spray of DeepCreep. The sprays did not technically touch the TB plate during our cleaning as it was stuck 1/2" away from the top meaning it would just be forced directly into manifold and then the engine.

11: Now its the waiting game. This is done to let the engine heat soak. I did this for 20 minutes. During the waiting process, I cleaned up any extra oils around and attached the decorative cover and any other removed components. A re-check of the clamps, connectors, cables, and anything that was touched was done to make sure they were secured properly.

12: With time up, I will start the car back up and take it on an aggressive drive to clear it up. I took it easy at first making sure to have my windows down and at low rpm to listen for any abnormal sounds or noises. Only after a few tests at different rpms did I do the actual aggressive driving.

-------------------------------------------------
Interesting excuse I have for legally gunning it:

I am fortunate to live 2 minutes away from where you can legally (and encouraged) to go from a near stop (or full stop during off hours) and push the pedal all the way down. It's one of the most dangerous highway 'ramps' in my town and has a lot of accidents. The road leading up to it from my house is a slow residential area (25mph limit) and in a school zone. However it quickly leads from the road onto an awkward multi direction highway. The road points in the direction of highway traffic nearest it (so say moving to the right) but most want to head left onto the other lane of the highway. They are seperated by a 'ditch' most of the way except for where we are where there is now an island in the middle kinda like one of those X pipes. So to move onto the other side of the highway, you stop at a STOP sign just before the moving traffic and wait until there is a break on both sides. You are allowed to both stop there at the sign or move to the small area of the 'island' and not wait for both sides to clear up but just one and then the other.

But wait! There's more, the two sides of the highway from where you have to go from have low visibility. The side nearest you is just comming over the top of the hill so you have not too far distance to see up it but still ok. The one on the side you wish to go to is worse. It is comming up from downhill but with a very large bend so you can't see very far. I have counted that from the moment you see a car appear at the bottom (on the lane you want to go to) to when they 'reach' where the island is is about 5 seconds giving you only about that much visibility or plan for when to bolt across. And one last one. The other side of that highway has cars trying to do the same thing from another small road. It's a 4 way intersection with the speed limit set to 65mph and most cars going much faster than that. Anyway, just wanted to share my crazy excuse for gunning the car at times. The day I did my top-end cleaning (today) I of course drove 'aggressively' using this stretch and then looping and comming back to it to reach my house again and guess what? A big delivery freight truck rolled over the side ditch right at the exit I drove up on! It was on the 'entry' into that little homely road I use to drive to the highway but the turn curve was too large I guess. That's the end of my story and excuse.
-----------------------------------------------------

Original post that was asking question:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbow View Post
Greetings,

I'm looking at doing a top-end cleaning of my 2010 Camaro 2SS (L99 Automatic) and have been wondering what type of methology you guys personally use. The car has about 65k miles on it and has never been given a top-end cleaning or any carbon removal treatment of any kind.

I've read quite a few threads and youtube videos and most of them involve using Seafoam and putting it in the brake booster or spraying it into the intake throttle body. I've thought about combining a few of those methods and I have it posted below.

I've highlighted the parts below in red that I am unsure about if you can look at that part and tell me if it is a bad idea or isn't done right.

My questions which relate to the highlighted parts are essentially.

Q1: Some users recommend pouring in a lot of SeaFoam at the very last 'gulp' to stall the engine so that it can soak on the cylinder head. Is this 'safe'? I thought liquid was not compressible so you shouldn't have excess in there or will it evaporate after the 20minute waiting time?

Q2: I've only heard of people doing it either the brake booster way or spraying it from air-intake just before the throttle body using a foam based top-end cleaner like SeaFoam Spray or GM's own cleaner. I wouldn't mind doing both but if this isn't recommended let me know.

Q3: How do you do a computer reset of the throttle body plate? Online people said not to manually open the throttle body plate with your fingers if it is a fly-by-wire system like the Camaro is and to use an assistant on the pedal instead. I'll be doing that but say I want to just open it with my fingers in the future and reset the position sensor/computer. How do I do that on a Camaro? I've searched around but haven't found any threads.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Last edited by kingbow; 03-26-2016 at 02:47 AM. Reason: Overhaul change
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:30 PM   #2
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I think that's over thinking it.

What has always worked good for me... Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner in a full tank of fuel. Drive that tank till near empty flooring it a few times.

Refill with premium, change the oil. Take the throttle body off and wipe any carbon built up off with carb cleaner. Done.

I'd rather not flood an engine all at once with a cleaner. I can't imagine how that is good for things. Going in through the fuel system over a tank full of fuel seems to work just fine. And...best way to clean a throttle body... is take it off and clean it. Quite easy to remove.
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Old 03-20-2016, 05:45 PM   #3
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I wouldn't flood to stall the engine. That to me is a big no no. I do use BG sprayed gradually into the intake while running. The whole cleaning process takes a good hour and the exhaust will smoke like crazy at first. Now that said I also pour a can of BG in the tank at every oil change.
To get completely clean you need to remove the intake and hand clean or walnut blast.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:44 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
I think that's over thinking it.

What has always worked good for me... Put a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner in a full tank of fuel. Drive that tank till near empty flooring it a few times.

Refill with premium, change the oil. Take the throttle body off and wipe any carbon built up off with carb cleaner. Done.

I'd rather not flood an engine all at once with a cleaner. I can't imagine how that is good for things. Going in through the fuel system over a tank full of fuel seems to work just fine. And...best way to clean a throttle body... is take it off and clean it. Quite easy to remove.
I have that big size Chevron Techron in my gas tank right now. I've seen the test and results of it and it was much 'weaker' than doing the actual top-end cleaning which wouldn't be an issue if it was cleaned in the past for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JMT View Post
I wouldn't flood to stall the engine. That to me is a big no no. I do use BG sprayed gradually into the intake while running. The whole cleaning process takes a good hour and the exhaust will smoke like crazy at first. Now that said I also pour a can of BG in the tank at every oil change.
To get completely clean you need to remove the intake and hand clean or walnut blast.
Yeah, that is really the only part of the videos/procedures I read both on here and in some videos that raised the big red flags. It was said enough where it was 'knowledge' of one way of doing things but it wasn't the official way as written on the bottle. The actual instructions never say to stall the engine by giving it a huge 'gulp' as some people have reported to recommending. I wasn't sure if being new made it so I wasn't in the 'club' with some 'duh' knowledge but that was about it.

May I ask what BG is?

Yep, I get that there are basically three levels of top-end / intake valve cleaning with the fuel additive cleaner being the easiest but also least effective followed up by the method I described and then getting to the actual physical cleaning of it like you described haha.


I mainly noted both methods(through throttle body intake and brake booster) as I saw and heard both used (both officially in the instruction manuals and from word of mouth) but never saw them combined. My car has a slightly sluggish response at times and an idle that is just a bit off. The previous owner never did any of this stuff and I've been doing this mainly as a way to learn about cars. Whereas it took me 3.5 hours to remove and install a new air-intake the first time I did it last month on my 2SS, I can now do in 25mins which is a huge feeling of accomplishment for me personally.
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:54 AM   #5
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I think you over thought it, in a good way.

I used a half can in the brake booster and half can in the gas tank. Pulled the heads off roughly 25,000 miles after and they were still very clean. I learned then that putting quality gas in is the first step to having clean combustion chambers. As for your valves and intake, if you do not already have a catch can installed, definitely install one after your seafoam treatment. (This will keep the puddles of oil and gunk from forming)

I also recommend an oil change after the seafoam treatment. I never was partial to the idea of cleaning the top end, yet leaving the same oil in the motor that has been in it for X,XXX miles. Piece of mind says to just change it out.

Also-I never knew we weren't supposed to manually open our throttle body. I've done that a few times, never had any negative effects. I've never heard of resetting the computer after doing it either.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornflakes'Camaro View Post
I think you over thought it, in a good way.

I used a half can in the brake booster and half can in the gas tank. Pulled the heads off roughly 25,000 miles after and they were still very clean. I learned then that putting quality gas in is the first step to having clean combustion chambers. As for your valves and intake, if you do not already have a catch can installed, definitely install one after your seafoam treatment. (This will keep the puddles of oil and gunk from forming)

I also recommend an oil change after the seafoam treatment. I never was partial to the idea of cleaning the top end, yet leaving the same oil in the motor that has been in it for X,XXX miles. Piece of mind says to just change it out.

Also-I never knew we weren't supposed to manually open our throttle body. I've done that a few times, never had any negative effects. I've never heard of resetting the computer after doing it either.
I'm a computer engineer and most things there have to be done in exact and stringent ways with little room for question. When I have to write up technical documentation, it has to be bulletproof in the step of instructions and procedures.

This has been great in that field but has been hurting me as of late. I've been getting more into cars and like to do as much DIY work as I can possibly do but the instructions just aren't fool proof for a guy like me.

I overthought it by reading and watching as many fuel system cleaning manuals and videos I could find online.

I'm not at the step yet where I understand enough about the engine and motor itself to go pulling off bolts yet.

I've only ever run 93 gas through my Camaro. I also did the octane reset by pulling the fuses recently.

I've done some research on the catch cans but again, the inner Comp Engineer in me has trouble finding his way around. I've been looking for the PCV valves and all the other little gadgets people mention but can't find the ones they are referring to. One of my searches said that the 2010 Camaro's didn't have a PCV Valve, and another said that the PCV hose was in X spot. Basically I'm having a hard time following the general instructions given and have an even harder time when people start using acronyms, equivalent names (like fog light vs DRL on our Camaros), or other made up names.

Yep, I heard it mentioned that if you put seafoam in your crankcase/engine oil to do a change in less than 250miles. I know you are saying to done one sooner anyway but I can't do that at the moment. I'm currently 650miles from home where I do that with my pop and just had the oil changed 2,000 miles ago. I'm doing it next month though but that is 1,000 miles later.

The videos from CRC and other makers of the throttle body cleaners said that fly-by-wire systems need to have their ECU/ECM reset if you ever open the plate by hand and that is why you need an assistant to step on the gas pedal (with car off but key in ON position) to get the throttle plate open. I couldn't find any mentions on Camaro forums of resetting a throttle position sensor so I guess that isn't a big deal in these cars.


Thanks for the advice. I'll forgo the red parts on stalling the engine and just do it per instruction with the brake booster and intake
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:06 PM   #7
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Check this out from CRC. http://crcindustries.com/auto/intake-valve-cleaner.php
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbow View Post
I'm a computer engineer and most things there have to be done in exact and stringent ways with little room for question. When I have to write up technical documentation, it has to be bulletproof in the step of instructions and procedures.

This has been great in that field but has been hurting me as of late. I've been getting more into cars and like to do as much DIY work as I can possibly do but the instructions just aren't fool proof for a guy like me.

I overthought it by reading and watching as many fuel system cleaning manuals and videos I could find online.

I'm not at the step yet where I understand enough about the engine and motor itself to go pulling off bolts yet.

I've only ever run 93 gas through my Camaro. I also did the octane reset by pulling the fuses recently.

I've done some research on the catch cans but again, the inner Comp Engineer in me has trouble finding his way around. I've been looking for the PCV valves and all the other little gadgets people mention but can't find the ones they are referring to. One of my searches said that the 2010 Camaro's didn't have a PCV Valve, and another said that the PCV hose was in X spot. Basically I'm having a hard time following the general instructions given and have an even harder time when people start using acronyms, equivalent names (like fog light vs DRL on our Camaros), or other made up names.

Yep, I heard it mentioned that if you put seafoam in your crankcase/engine oil to do a change in less than 250miles. I know you are saying to done one sooner anyway but I can't do that at the moment. I'm currently 650miles from home where I do that with my pop and just had the oil changed 2,000 miles ago. I'm doing it next month though but that is 1,000 miles later.

The videos from CRC and other makers of the throttle body cleaners said that fly-by-wire systems need to have their ECU/ECM reset if you ever open the plate by hand and that is why you need an assistant to step on the gas pedal (with car off but key in ON position) to get the throttle plate open. I couldn't find any mentions on Camaro forums of resetting a throttle position sensor so I guess that isn't a big deal in these cars.


Thanks for the advice. I'll forgo the red parts on stalling the engine and just do it per instruction with the brake booster and intake

Don't be too hard on yourself my man. Once you get familiar with these engines, I'm sure an engineer like yourself won't have any issue doing these type of preventative operations or even aftermarket modifications.

Youtube Seafoam cleaning. If you have any questions, feel free to direct message me and i'll type out exactly how I did it.

Changing the oil isn't extremely important, unless you choose to pour seafoam into the oil (some ppl only pour it into the gas tank, and into the intake). If you choose to not put seafoam into the oil, I'm confident you can still drive just fine until your oil change time comes. I just choose to go ahead and change it, since I was close to needing to do it anyways at the time of my seafoam treatment.

I also suggest you look at a youtube video and research catch cans and what they do. Performing a seafoam clean and not installing a catch can after will start to repeat the PCV actions that will leave oil puddles in your intake and gunk up your valves.


Don't hesitate to send a PM my way for any other inquires.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:12 PM   #9
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Changing the oil is very important after a top engine clean.

Run a tank of Techron through a full tank of premium. Floor it a few times on the highway towards the end of that tank. The oil will be black as coal. The oil getting that black will tell you the detergents did their job.

Change the oil, clean the throttle body... done.
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Old 03-24-2016, 10:26 PM   #10
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Op-did you ever get around to doing this yet?
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MMC View Post
That was actually the first product that actually alerted me to the WHOLE process of 'cleaning carbon out of the engine'. I saw it while walking through my Advanced Auto Parts and did some research and here I am.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornflakes'Camaro View Post
Don't be too hard on yourself my man. Once you get familiar with these engines, I'm sure an engineer like yourself won't have any issue doing these type of preventative operations or even aftermarket modifications.

Youtube Seafoam cleaning. If you have any questions, feel free to direct message me and i'll type out exactly how I did it.

Changing the oil isn't extremely important, unless you choose to pour seafoam into the oil (some ppl only pour it into the gas tank, and into the intake). If you choose to not put seafoam into the oil, I'm confident you can still drive just fine until your oil change time comes. I just choose to go ahead and change it, since I was close to needing to do it anyways at the time of my seafoam treatment.

I also suggest you look at a youtube video and research catch cans and what they do. Performing a seafoam clean and not installing a catch can after will start to repeat the PCV actions that will leave oil puddles in your intake and gunk up your valves.

Don't hesitate to send a PM my way for any other inquires.
I Gotta lift some more weights! I get fatigued during repetetive actions that you go through during these recent DIY sessions I've been doing. And yeah, I saw most of the top videos posted on SeaFoam cleaning before I posted this. I think about 10+ full how-to videos (mainly to see different methods and 'what' they are taking off and the exact method) and say 5 videos with both how-to and results and if they actually work. It's why my methodology posted above sounds so crazy!

SeaFoam themselves officially claim that there is no need for this as well as long as you don't dump it in the crankcase as you noted.

I'm buying a catch can as we speak And thanks for the offer! I appreciate it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell James View Post
Changing the oil is very important after a top engine clean.

Run a tank of Techron through a full tank of premium. Floor it a few times on the highway towards the end of that tank. The oil will be black as coal. The oil getting that black will tell you the detergents did their job.

Change the oil, clean the throttle body... done.
I won't be able to for another 800 miles but Seafoam officially says its not needed granting it wasn't put into the crankcase so I'll just bet onthat. And yeah, I put the Techron in last week after running dry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornflakes'Camaro View Post
Op-did you ever get around to doing this yet?
I just did it today! Sorry for the lack of response. I've read everything but I had some deliverables this week I had to finish. Three technical reports due in two days!

I will make a post right below with some details!

Last edited by kingbow; 03-26-2016 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:55 AM   #12
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I did a cleaning today with Seafoam Motor Treatment, Seafoam Spray, and SeaFoam DeepCreep (not all used to empty of course haha). I followed the updated methodology in the main post. I modified it from a question into just a 'method for future readers that happen on it.

Before I started the treatment, I took off the throttle body to take a peak inside the intake manifold. The most popular cleaning guide on this Camaro5 forum is one of the V6 LFX and it was in a pretty bad shape. Based on all the Youtube videos I saw and online forum posts I read (all of different vehicles), I was preparing to be shocked.

Well I pulled the bolts and plug and took a look inside. Wow, the throttle body and intake manifold was actually...nearly spotless. The throttle body + plate obviously had some dark carbon residue on the edges of the plate and housing but nothing that was bad. I broke open the seal on the SeaFoam DeepCreep and did a cleaning, soak, and removal of the carbon on the throttle body/plate.

The intake manifold itself, had a shine on the inside which is to be expected but what surprised me was that it looked like it was plastic. The intake manifold uses some black 'painted' metal which made it seem so. The shine, manifold color, and clean nature of the inside looked like the plastic on the stock air intake with WD40 sprayed on it. I only wanted a cleaning and didn't want to spend the time to take it apart and check out the valves or cylinders. They could be in worse condition but I wasn't about to do any extreme carbon cleaning past the SeaFoam I was about to give it.

As for the actual cleaning, I already had Chevron Complete Fuel System Cleaner in my tank from the week before when my tank ran dry and I dumped it in and put 10gallons on top of it. I always run 93 premium of course and did a fuse pull to reset fuel type a few weeks ago.

Past that, I did the cleaning as outlined above in the updated methodology with an assistant on the pedal. Got a smoke show for a minute but not much past that.

What changes did I feel after doing it?


I unfortunately can't provide an objective answer I am comfortable with as an engineer. Today was the first warm day I got to drive my car in over 2 weeks. The past few weeks of driving were in groggy and cold weather and doing short 7minute drives. Those didn't have a linear power response probably due to outer temperature, cold road in contact with tires, and an engine that wasn't fully warmed up. It was very peaky and either went V4 AFM or full on beast mode once it 'caught'.

Today, I also discovered Competetive Mode and drove in that all day post cleaning. This made me drive it in an active fun way where I'm using the S mode and paddles and driving it like it's meant to be driven. In all the other situations for the winter, it's been mainly conservative, and passive. And.... did I mention that I brought it to the exhaust shop right after the cleaning to do a muffler delete?

Those make for probably the largest change of variables you can think of when trying to compare pre to post performance. On a subjective level though, I thought that maybe the throttle was more responsive and linear such that it didn't grog and then go WHAM but performed as it should throughout the range.

Overall, very happy with the cleaning as it taught me more about my car and gave me future experience with repeating this procedure.

Last edited by kingbow; 03-26-2016 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:43 AM   #13
JMT
 
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For those that ask what BG is: this is a product recommended/promoted by most cheverolet dealers. If they do the application you also get an extra warrantee coverage. Online it gets positive reviews as doing its job. In addition BG also has a second product MOA that you put in with the oil. Used together they claim a hp increase. I did a few changes like this and after researching the addition of additives to top grade oil have descide do to skip the MOA with my next oil change.
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Old 03-26-2016, 10:43 AM   #14
Russell James


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingbow View Post
That was actually the first product that actually alerted me to the WHOLE process of 'cleaning carbon out of the engine'. I saw it while walking through my Advanced Auto Parts and did some research and here I am.



I Gotta lift some more weights! I get fatigued during repetetive actions that you go through during these recent DIY sessions I've been doing. And yeah, I saw most of the top videos posted on SeaFoam cleaning before I posted this. I think about 10+ full how-to videos (mainly to see different methods and 'what' they are taking off and the exact method) and say 5 videos with both how-to and results and if they actually work. It's why my methodology posted above sounds so crazy!

SeaFoam themselves officially claim that there is no need for this as well as long as you don't dump it in the crankcase as you noted.

I'm buying a catch can as we speak And thanks for the offer! I appreciate it.



I won't be able to for another 800 miles but Seafoam officially says its not needed granting it wasn't put into the crankcase so I'll just bet onthat. And yeah, I put the Techron in last week after running dry.



I just did it today! Sorry for the lack of response. I've read everything but I had some deliverables this week I had to finish. Three technical reports due in two days!

I will make a post right below with some details!
Check your oil, I'll bet it's black as coal.

If you did a proper top engine clean, where did that gunk go? Some burned off, some is in the oil.

No way would I drive another 800 miles with crud in the oil. But that's just me.
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