Clutch Tamer Hitmaster. Who has one in their car?

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Do we know what size the fluid passage through the solenoid is? If it's equivalent to -3an does it even make sense to up-size everything else? Having/keeping a -3an size for the adjuster makes sense but if the solenoid is the same... The flow is only as much as the smallest orifice right?

Your OEM line is 1/4 line in all sections other than the rubber flex portion.
1/4 hard line (brakeline) -4an and 7/16-24 are all of the same system that can make up any combo and you would keep the same as the clutch OEM diameter line regardless of how you build your line.

If you go to 3an it is also same as 3/16 hard line(brakeline)...
3/16,3an and 3/8-24 are of the same.

If you really want to see the difference look at you car engine bay and look at your ABS brake cylinder fluid system. You’ll see the small lines are 3/16 and the large lines are 1/4. The 2010-2015 camaro manuals have 1/4 size brakeline size on the clutch line from master cylinder to transmissions slave cylinder connector. In a nut shell a 3/16 line will fit into a 1/4 line because the inner diameter of -4an or 1/4 line is 3/16. A 3/16 and 3an inner diameter is less then 3/16 and is very tiny inside.

Hope this helps ya...

[Jayjellyfish212]

Ordered a few of these fittings.. they are supposed to be the male end to the clutch connections for the quick connectors ( hopefully they are) and the other end is -4an ...this is what has been holding me up a bit on most of my idea on how I want to tackle the plumbing on this all... fingers crossed these are what I hope they are.. lol

[Jayjellyfish212]

One bummer I’m kinda worried about is getting some -4 an PTFE in black nylon wrap that I want to use to make up my new line sections. The best price is in China and HK . I ordered in the past many -an fittings from companies over there and no issues. With this Corona virus crap going on over there I don’t think I’ll get my hoseline until mid summer since they have everything on lock down there. Sucks because they have the best prices and good quality of this hose. I found a vendor that appears to have some for sale but it’s near quadruple the freaking price for the same stuff. The US supplier wants $88 bucks for 20’ .. damn price gougers!!!

Luckily I spoke to another US vendor I have bought stuff from in the past and he is willing to allow me to buy per foot. I’ll probably get 6’ of the hose so I have enough Incase I have to remove or decide to change any of the other plumbing on the unit down the road.

[stratman2SSRS]

I have all the plumbing done for my hitmaster done now. I'm hoping to get the system bled this weekend and get the car moving again. RPM made me a new TR6060 that we just got bolted in. I'm in Canada, so it will be a while before I can test the system out at the track.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

I have all the plumbing done for my hitmaster done now. I'm hoping to get the system bled this weekend and get the car moving again. RPM made me a new TR6060 that we just got bolted in. I'm in Canada, so it will be a while before I can test the system out at the track.

That’s awesome! Post some pictures when you get chance. Be nice to see the difference between the styles of each one of these gadgets installed. I have just about everything here and just waiting on a few plumbing fittings and hose line. I’m in the same boat as you as far as getting my car out of storage.. probably few more months to go on this winter season

[NXTLEVL]

I found the end fittings at Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-652504erl

My questions is about the fittings that go into the solenoid and valve. What are you using there? Do you have a link?

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

I found the end fittings at Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-652504erl

My questions is about the fittings that go into the solenoid and valve. What are you using there? Do you have a link?

Yeah those ones I got look identical to those you found in that link that I got from my fittings supplier. I should have all my fittings here this week if all goes as planned. I’ll post up some pictures of all the stuff and a diagram drawing of my plumbing game plan for this device.

I also tested my clutch pedal operation with my oem spring and LPE spring removed. I can’t speak for how a oem clutch will react with no springs on the pedal because I never tried it when I was on stock clutch and I have been on a McLoad twin disk clutch for a year now. After springs removed the clutch pedal felt about the same just with a less rubber band feel. So I’m confident running no spring at all my the clutch pedal will be fine. Once I get this working I’ll play around with some springs just for research purposes to confirm if the device works with a spring to. As of now I’m going to assume best to run no spring for this to work right l.

This weekend a friend of mine who is a mechanical engineer stopped over and we took the actual solenoid fully apart to determine the combined size equivalent to the solenoid and needle valve together to a inner diameter of a 1/4 hard line. Without any fittings attached to the solenoid and the needle adjustable valve together they are equivalent to a 1/4 hard line ID. So as long as you replace/swap the fittings it came with so you flow a 1/4 line when the solenoid is in open position you’ll be fine. I’m planning to plumb this thing so it has a closed loop option by putting in a main line shut off valve so When I’m not at a track this unit is fully bypassed from my main clutch fluid line.

This is all I’ll be using from the tamer kit . I’ll just use the solenoid and needle valve and build my own plumbing for it...

[Jayjellyfish212]

Another note we determined this weekend about this style device is that the main fluid flow is through the needle adjustable valve and not so much through the solenoid.. my first thought when I first seen one of these was the main fluid flow was through the solenoid mostly but that is not the case. The fluid flow is through the needle adjustable valve mainly and the solenoid is more like secondary in a sense. Obviously when the solenoid is activated only the fluid will run through the adjustable needle valve. This was interesting to learn it flows more opposite of what I initially thought. This solenoid only allows about a 1/16 or so diameter of fluid flow and combined with the needle adjustable valve flow you obtain combined a equivalent to about 3/16 which is what a 1/4 hardline ID is. Helps big time knowing this when planning out your plumbing game plan.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

I found the end fittings at Summit.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-652504erl

My questions is about the fittings that go into the solenoid and valve. What are you using there? Do you have a link?

Did you get the Map unit or Magnus unit?

I got the Map unit so I can only confirm in relation to this unit, but the Map unit solenoid and needle valve are all 1/8 npt female threads. At most of the connections for those sections I’ll be using hardline fittings that will be either 1/8npt to 3/8-24 or 1/8npt to 7/16-24. Probably easier and will make more sense when I can post a picture of all the stuff when it gets here including a drawing.

[stratman2SSRS]

Here’s where I decided to put the hitmaster

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

Here’s where I decided to put the hitmaster

Nice... how’s that unit operate? I ask because it appears to have no electric functionality to go on at launch and off after launching. Reminds me of a proportion valve by looks but hard to tell in any pictures I’ve seen of that unit. Do ya just adjust the knob manually and then your clutch pedal will slip on your gear changes to? I’m lost on its operation, kinda what made me shy away from that one. Interested to hear more about it from you with first hand knowledge of it ... the website write up on it sounds great. Did you have to remove all clutch pedal springs for it to work?

I got a couple more fittings in today and the 4an line so I’m getting closer to Starting installing the MAP brand one. Should have most of everything by weeks end hopefully. Gonna use 4an ptfe line, 1/4 and 3/16 hardline to plumb this thing up. I’m planning to get the mechanical install completed and see how that goes then I’ll introduce and install the electric stuff after.

[stratman2SSRS]

The Hitmaster has a solonoid as well, just not in the picture. It came with a little programable timer box that switches the solonoid back after 2 seconds after you release the line lock button.
I also have the STOV-004 that I'm not going to use yet. I want to try it with the timer first. I'm wondering if the STOV might give problems if the wheels are spinning after the launch?? It will think you are going faster than you really are if the wheels are spinning??

[NXTLEVL]

Originally Posted by Jayjellyfish212

Did you get the Map unit or Magnus unit?

I got the Map unit so I can only confirm in relation to this unit, but the Map unit solenoid and needle valve are all 1/8 npt female threads. At most of the connections for those sections I’ll be using hardline fittings that will be either 1/8npt to 3/8-24 or 1/8npt to 7/16-24. Probably easier and will make more sense when I can post a picture of all the stuff when it gets here including a drawing.

I got the Magnus unit an I've yet to take it apart so I cannot confirm the line size but I have a feeling the units are 100% identical minus the stickers. LOL

Seeing what you're using from the kit I think we're on the same path. I'm going to see what I can get done this week and try and get a few pictures. I'm hoping to find a T-fitting that will limit the amount of adapters I need. I don't want any more areas for leaks to occur. Ideally I want a T that threads directly into the solenoid, has a -4an bottom outlet and allows for use of the provided hard line going to the needle valve. I'm not yet convinced I need to up-size the circuit going to the needle valve.

[Jayjellyfish212]

Originally Posted by stratman2SSRS

The Hitmaster has a solonoid as well, just not in the picture. It came with a little programable timer box that switches the solonoid back after 2 seconds after you release the line lock button.
I also have the STOV-004 that I'm not going to use yet. I want to try it with the timer first. I'm wondering if the STOV might give problems if the wheels are spinning after the launch?? It will think you are going faster than you really are if the wheels are spinning??

Ahhh....ok that makes more sense now I know that the hit master unit has electronics to it as well I think your STOV-004 controller is going to be best choice once you play around with the electric set up for it all. I don't believe you should have any issues with the STOV-004 since it will be very similar to like the CTAP unit. I use the CTAP unit on my car for clutch position to trigger the 2 step on and off. I will plan to tie these to a somewhat set together so the STOV-004 kills all power to the tamer and the 2 step once the car hits my selected MPH..I'm guessing around 15-20 mph should be enough and well before i need to shift to 2nd to hopefully set it for killing power to the units. The STOV-004 once set up, just sends a signal out to trigger the on or off to almost anything you want it to from what i have read so far. I dont think wheel spin or speeds are going to be any issues since it really is no different than you using your foot to slip the clutch pedal, so instaed the clutch pedal will just do the same thing but use slow return pedal pressure. Should be the same as it was before when you were launching at the track. I'm dreading having to pull things apart to get back into the ECU since i have it hidden in the cabin filter area but i'll get it done
I am probably going to pull my hood so i can install this thing down around the brake booster area. It is a tight area but once i get it installed i should feel like i accomplished a mission and a half.