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Old 08-09-2016, 04:21 PM   #15
thahemp
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I would skip everything that isn't causing or affected by that rattle. Don't fix it if it ain't broken. In my experience, I'm more likely to cause problems just taking it apart and putting it back together than leaving it alone.
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Old 08-09-2016, 04:43 PM   #16
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I would skip everything that isn't causing or affected by that rattle. Don't fix it if it ain't broken. In my experience, I'm more likely to cause problems just taking it apart and putting it back together than leaving it alone.
Dude, pessimist much... LoL

I get that thought process but I hope I do better than that...
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Old 08-09-2016, 05:12 PM   #17
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Screen caps of what I'm going to order...



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Old 08-09-2016, 06:04 PM   #18
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Fixed that post about my orders...
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:31 AM   #19
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Dude, pessimist much... LoL

I get that thought process but I hope I do better than that...
More like a realist haha. What did the rattle end up being?
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:35 AM   #20
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More like a realist haha. What did the rattle end up being?
Didn't pull it yet. That fixed it is misleading. LoL.

I meant the previous post. Now I'll have to fix that one. I'm going to order parts here in a few minutes. I need to time it out for the parts to show up on Friday...
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:00 AM   #21
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If you threw another $380 + tune at the problem you could have a new cam to put in while you're at it. As it stands you'll likely be re-spending $400+ when you finally do decide to do a cam.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:04 AM   #22
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If you threw another $380 + tune at the problem you could have a new cam to put in while you're at it.
Yeah, but the damn down time is not in the cards right now...

I actually just got off the phone with BTR. The guy talked me down off the ledge. I'm just doing the upgrade and pushrods. He actually told me I could skip those but hell, I might as well...

So in the end, I'm sort of going with your method... lmao
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:20 AM   #23
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Is there a specific reason you are wanting to upgrade pushrods? I did use .105" wall pushrods from BTR with mine, but that was really just to try and keep them from pole vaulting when I raised the limiter. You're definitely not going to have that problem with the stock cam and limiter settings.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:30 AM   #24
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Is there a specific reason you are wanting to upgrade pushrods? I did use .105" wall pushrods from BTR with mine, but that was really just to try and keep them from pole vaulting when I raised the limiter. You're definitely not going to have that problem with the stock cam and limiter settings.
I drive the piss out of the car. She's full bolt on and tuned, putting down 435/425.

I think the damned walking boot I had on my clutch foot got me into this mess. During the five weeks I was driving with it on my clutch foot it made me miss third a few times.

I'm half concerned that the problem might actually be a bent or tweaked pushrod instead of the trunnion.

I also would absolutely hate to have it in pieces and not have what I need. There's no decent parts place around me. So i figure the stock length with .80 wall for $95 is cheap insurance.

The real end goal is a nice cam with heads and intake work at minimum. I'm leaning towards small bore LS7 heads and an MSD intake manifold because I doubt that Vararam will ever release their intake manifold. If Vararam does then I'll be looking at aftermarket LS3 casings with work done. I'd like to get low to mid 500's with as much TQ as I can get but stay N/A. Driveability and durability are the prime concerns though even if it means less power.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:38 AM   #25
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Fair enough. No parts to be found around here either. Make sure you have a socket that will fit your crank bolt so you can manually rotate the crank. Torquing a rocker down while it's on a lobe is a sure-fire way to end up drilling hardened bolts out of your head.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:43 AM   #26
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Fair enough. No parts to be found around here either. Make sure you have a socket that will fit your crank bolt so you can manually rotate the crank. Torquing a rocker down while it's on a lobe is a sure-fire way to end up drilling hardened bolts out of your head.
I thought these were just bolt on and go... I'll have to look into the procedure. I've got plenty of tools though. Still from my days as a Chevy tech in the early 90's I've added a ton since then.

Basically just rotate until I'm off the line and somewhere around the base? This isn't like the old hot lashing days is it?
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:51 AM   #27
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Yeah there are some charts that show crank gear orientations, but you'll be fine just watching the valves. Rotate until you see the valve you are about to do move, then get it back on the base circle and torque it. It's simple to do, but can be costly if you didn't know to do it!
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:52 AM   #28
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Yeah there are some charts that show crank gear orientations, but you'll be fine just watching the valves. Rotate until you see the valve you are about to do move, then get it back on the base circle and torque it. It's simple to do, but can be costly if you didn't know to do it!
Thanks for the heads up man. This is the kind of thing that these forums are good for. I appreciate it.
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