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Old 04-26-2012, 02:41 AM   #1
1sikRS

 
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clutch bleeding

I installed the gto resivor.. will a mityvac wrk to bleed my clutch???
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #2
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Not really. You could use it to suck out the resevoir but that's about it. You empty the resevoir and refill it then push the fluid through the system with the pedal and repeat until the fluid looks clean.

There are some people manufacturing thier own remote bleeder acessories but I have not seen many of them here in some time. I do have one but have not installed it yet. The actuator bleeder screw is HARD to get to without a scope and some socket extensions.

-Mark.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:44 AM   #3
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I haven't bled mine since I added the separate reservoir, still works as well as it ever did.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:36 PM   #4
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ya i want to do the gto tank but im afraid i wont be able to bleed it.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:44 PM   #5
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You don't need to bleed it.

Just crimp the stock line with vise grips.

Suck out the brake fluid reservoir with your wife's turkey baster.

Unhook the line.

Hook up the new line to the remote reservoir.

Plug the brake reservoir port.

Fill both reservoirs.

Unclip the vise grips with the reservoir held ABOVE the inlet through the firewall and tap the line with your finger to get any small bubbles out.

Mount the reservoir.

Enjoy.


Just sent... don't want to offend anyone.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:44 PM   #6
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I was thinking the same thing. The bleeder is definitely hard to get to.
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Old 04-26-2012, 02:50 PM   #7
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FYI... Here is how you access the clutch bleeder.



Not really worth it. The tube on the upper right is the bleeder. Top hole on this pic.



May be hard to get to with tranny in car.


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Old 04-26-2012, 02:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCanSS View Post

Suck out the brake fluid reservoir with your wife's turkey baster.

Note to self: don't accept a Thanksgiving dinner invitation from him.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:13 PM   #9
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Lmao!!!!


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Old 05-21-2012, 01:06 AM   #10
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It's very eash a 1/4 in rachet and a 7mm shallow or deep well works.have a friend pump it and hold it like brakes.. u only have to turn it a hair then turn it back and repeat..
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
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It's very eash a 1/4 in rachet and a 7mm shallow or deep well works.have a friend pump it and hold it like brakes.. u only have to turn it a hair then turn it back and repeat..
FYI it's 8mm not 7mm ... Which I discovered after reading the above and climbing under the car with the 7mm! D'oH!

BTW ... this job is nowhere near as difficult as everyone says it is ... just be prepared to have brake fluid running down your arm! Oh ... and the excess runs out of the vents at the bottom of the bellhousing ...so have a tray there to catch it.

Next time I do this I'm going to weld a short piece of rod onto 8mm socket and fit a rubber hose onto the back of it. That way I won't have to take the ratchet off and reverse the f / r each time to loosen and tighten ... AND I'll be able to catch the excess.

ALSO ... My tip is this ... before you bleed the clutch, bleed the front brakes until the reservoir is almost dry (Don't let it get empty). THEN top up with clean fluid and bleed the back brakes both sides until clean fluid comes through. Constantly check reservoir level and top up as necessary. Then repeat on front brakes. I went around and bled all corners a second time to flush any old fluid.

By doing this before doing the clutch you prevent old fluid in the brake lines contaminating the new fluid in the slave cylinder.

My car is under 2 years old with about 13,500 miles ... the clutch pedal had just started sticking down under fast shifts. The fluid that came out was dark and terribly contaminated! I'm hoping that this has fixed it given it has not had this issue since new ... however I won't be surprized if I end up needing for a new clutch and separate master cylinder off a holden monaro / vz commodore.

I'll post again after I've driven car to say if this has fixed sticking or not.

FYI I had the same issue with my Holden SSV commodore back in Australia (G8 GT). However that had the problem from new so I fitted a return spring and removed the helper spring, however that only returned the pedal ... the slave cylinder was remaining activated ... so ultimately the clutch wore out. I ended up getting a new pedal box under warranty and fitted an Xtreme street/strip clutch kit (The car was cammed, and pushing 500rwhp). I heard from the guy who bought it that he had to fit a new clutch ... so I'm guessing the issue was still there but the stronger pressure plate when new overcame it for a short while.
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