03-09-2014, 11:43 PM | #43 | |
Drives: 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 149
|
Quote:
Are they ok for street use? What's the sound like at normal street temps? |
|
03-10-2014, 12:03 AM | #44 |
Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
|
R-4. They have the best temp range of any pad I have used. I have been using nothing but porterfield for so long that I don't hardly notice it. Every once and a while if the temp is about 60 and if you put real light pedal pressure on them they squeak quite a bit. If I notice this I just coast and then brake harder where I actually need to stop. They are silent when warm and when you use moderate to heavy pedal pressure.
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. |
03-10-2014, 12:13 AM | #45 | |
Drives: 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 149
|
Quote:
Anyone hear anything about EBC yellow? |
|
03-10-2014, 12:26 AM | #46 | |
Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
|
Quote:
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. |
|
03-10-2014, 07:02 AM | #47 |
Drives: One of the baddest handling Gen 5s Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Masachusetts
Posts: 4,177
|
You may not want to do this but there is a huge difference between my 19" wheel setup and the 20" wheels, even over TSW nurbs in 20" size. My 19x10.5" wheels weighs around 56lbs each and the car stops very very good at the extreme with HP+ pads, Goodrich SS lines and Motul 600.
|
03-12-2014, 04:09 PM | #48 |
Drives: Rally Yellow Camaro+Avalanche Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 1,110
|
Track pads, stainless hoses and DOT4 fluid are a must, but remember to drive to your's and your car's limits. No need to keep braking late when you start feeling brake fade. Just ease off a couple of laps until your brakes cool down and then charge ahead again. Also no need to drive beyond your abilities and end up off course or worse.
Just be level headed and drive smartly. You can leave off your brakes a lot if you learn the lines.
__________________
Vengeance Kaotik Cam, C.A.I., ARH LT, Pypes Cat Back, ZL1 Shifter+2012LS3VERT bushing, Quantum Brake Ducts, JDP Tow Hook Scorch Yellow Trim Kit, Shark Fin, AAC DRLs+ABLs+SMDs, ZTA Rear Spoiler, R.Y. 1LE Splitter. Pfadt coilovers, camber plates, trailing arms, Pegasus Solid Subframe. Pedders ZL1 barz, radius arm & steering rack bushings. BMR adjustable toe-rods. Hotchkis Max Chassis Brace. ZL1 GMPP Driveline Upgrade. TurnOne P/S pump. CTS-V 6 pistons.
447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM |
03-12-2014, 05:52 PM | #49 |
Drives: 2018 2SS Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 294
|
I'm not a fan of the HPS or HP+ pads for track use either. However, you should try Hawk's full race pads. I've been using Hawk's DTC-70 pads on my race car for years with great success. Most of my passes are made under HEAVY braking, and the DTC-70's have never let me down.
|
03-14-2014, 10:45 AM | #50 | |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
|
Quote:
As a caution these days, when I get off the track I do not go to my parking spot, instead I go for a little slow speed drive for 5 minutes around the grounds to let the rotors cool down. If you go right back to the spot and park, the section of the rotor that is inside the caliper will be very hot and potentially get even hotter, while the other area will start to cool. That could lead to warping right there. So 5 minutes is not a big deal for a little extra safety.
__________________
Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
|
03-14-2014, 02:23 PM | #51 |
Drives: 2018 2SS Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 294
|
Why did you choose a circle track pad for a road course application? DTC-60 or DTC-70 is what you want for a road course.
|
03-14-2014, 03:09 PM | #52 | |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
|
Quote:
They was listed as a step up from the OEM pads, which I had never really had any problems with, so I figured they would be better. Wrong. They were far worse.
__________________
Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
|
03-14-2014, 03:14 PM | #53 |
Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
|
The 60's and 70's have a limited operating range that require a good warm-up. They are not good street pads when it is cold. If you don't want to swap out pads every time you track the car 60's and 70's are iffy. The 30's have a broad temp range and can be used safely for daily driving and have enough range that they will stop well road racing. I used a set of them on my CTS-V. They really seem to operate hot when you push them. If your rotors and fluid can take the heat they work fine for road racing and can be safely driven on the street. Don't you think a circle track racing pad would stop better than a street pad?
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. Last edited by jessrayo; 03-14-2014 at 03:32 PM. |
03-14-2014, 03:17 PM | #54 |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
|
Get the big aluminum paddle shifters that you can get for <$100 here somewhere on Camaro5. They are UNBELIEVABLY NICE. No taking hands off the wheel to downshift. Take about 10 minutes to install.
__________________
Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
03-14-2014, 03:19 PM | #55 |
Drives: RY 2011 2SS A6 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 997
|
Speaking of belts: Get a CG Lock. $50 and it locks your lap belt in. Really reduces the amount of sliding around in the seat. I loved it (and then got Kirkeys so don't need it on the track anymore, but still drive around town with it).
__________________
Dry sump LS7, cage, JPSS suspension, Wilwood brakes, fire suppression, ARH 3" headers/exhaust, Z/28 DSSV coilovers, Kirkey seats, TeamTech 6-point harnesses, 19" Forgeline GA3R, 325/30R19 Re11 tires, oil cooler, monster JPSS splitter/wickerbill, CAI, brake ducts. |
03-14-2014, 03:33 PM | #56 |
Drives: 2018 2SS Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 294
|
You are 100% correct. DTC-60 and DTC-70 pads suck on the street. They are a no compromise track pad. My view is if you're spending the time and money to track your car, why compromise on something as important as your brakes? Pads are easy to swap. You can do it in under an hour in the comfort of your garage before you leave for the track, and swap back to OEM when you return. Not much effort for the best of both worlds.
|
|
|
|
|