About to pull the trigger on an SS4

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

With more underdrive meaning the 25% you are spinning the accessories at a slower rate and are therefore losing less power powering those accessories. Your horsepower gains are going to be very minimal, and you pretty much will never notice any type of gain by getting an underdrive pulley. That's really more of a secondary effect whereas the prime reason for getting an actual damper is to decrease those harmful vibrations to the engine that a larger camshaft will produce. Fluidampr uses actual fluid in their dampers and have been making them for a very long time. If I weren't so impatient and had it to do over again I would go with Fluidampr but I have had zero issues after 2000 miles so far with the Powerbond.

That’s the best explanation I’ve got so far. I know what I’m going to get.

Originally Posted by SSBUSDRVR

OP don’t forget to add some Suspension Upgrades for that added power. Oops sorry my bad it’s a 1LE. Best Wishes on your Build �� Once you start the Mods most can’t Stop. All I wanted was a Catback to make it sound better way back then lol.

I’ve started researching the wheel hop elimination stuff but that’s going to be after I get everything sorted with the cam. I’m not to sure about the install, thinking about seeing if my tuner can do the install if for me.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

That’s the best explanation I’ve got so far. I know what I’m going to get.



I’ve started researching the wheel hop elimination stuff but that’s going to be after I get everything sorted with the cam. I’m not to sure about the install, thinking about seeing if my tuner can do the install if for me.

No problem. And for the wheel hop, when you choose to address it, I suggest BMR trailing arms and Pegasus solid subframe bushings. See my DIY in the Suspension forum for the bushings, its real simple. Either way, you're on the right track. Post the results when you get them!

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

No problem. And for the wheel hop, when you choose to address it, I suggest BMR trailing arms and Pegasus solid subframe bushings. See my DIY in the Suspension forum for the bushings, its real simple. Either way, you're on the right track. Post the results when you get them!

I will be sure to post, and check out your install, I seen a couple videos but they are all on lifts and I don’t have one of those.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

I will be sure to post, and check out your install, I seen a couple videos but they are all on lifts and I don’t have one of those.

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

There it is. Yeah I have seen those videos too. Hopefully my diy clears it up for you. You don't need a lift, just some tools, which are all listed.

[christianchevell]

I as I am sure most good tuners/mechanics would say....replace the lifters at that mileage...As tracking most likely has occurred a little too much, sure you can put dowels in to hold the lifters up and reuse the original trays with the lifters you have but you know its about the condition of what you have being 100% it has to go on a new cam and the biggest mistake from Driven racings website on their bulletins about the LS engine series is people expecting they do not have to do a break in on a ls engine as its a roller...well yes its roller with a butt load of spring pressure like its a race car.

And therefore down the road the engine goes ….but hey it goes even with guys who did twice the amount of preload then blamed the cam thousands of miles later...…. not like a hydraulic flat tappet which you break in right away or it fails miserably....right away....Just a thought. I know its like $500 more and a PITA for the gaskets and the bolts and the trays and the lifters...……. But hey.... just sayin...…. your lifters and cam could be fine, or the cam could be showing some tracking meaning the lifters have been leaving marks and maybe a pock mark or two on them you can never see....or …


And basically I live by usually better safe than sorry, used to be called Hardluck in the infantry...….. Good luck to you. And your idle should be around 950 compared to the 600 now so the underdrive of the alternator is not really going to matter......and a/c its not under driven by the fluidampr….. its just one belt or none.... A couple thoughts, going to do a Power master starter next starter heat stroke is my only problem, need to get more heat out of under the hood, damn stock starters heat soak too much. And a sock does nothing IMO kind of like the gain of a underdrive...… And if your using the Robert way DIY.... I would recommend getting book on building a LS engine..Robert went his way...and yes after the DIY back then when he limped it get a tune he was on here asking about the right measurement for the pushrod..which really should have been easy, but also about preload and that's where my golden zone stuff I have garnered over time comes from; average lifter preload apon tear downs from shops in that .045; .060 range. the more preload the more noise,( type writer), but hey it tells you its a happy camper or not as you get to know the typewriter...… and the stock engine cover deflects engine noise down , engine noise the headers multiply along with stronger springs.

I use driven racing ls30 for driving dump it at like 4-5k intervals. And your stock pump may be fine but usually its recommended to upgrade, I know I am happier with high volume the engine never even gets close to 30 or below for pressure what I always aimed for on sbc/bbc. And to replace the chain your going to have to drop the pan down. There were a few guys on here who did mod of cutting out the cross member of the front cradle then welding a couple flanges in and bolting it back in for those who want more frequent access ...as in Bo white did it, of course he's changed things a lot over time repeatedly and a good source for some knowledge if he is around if you have a question, there might be a DIY post on the cutting of the cross member I imagine a porta band or a cut of wheel with a spark shield and grinder would do it with a couple flanges made up and a welder..something shop could do super easy.

Me I am in facility maintenance at a penitentiary a good gig for a old mech and straight leg grunt, mostly carpentry but a lot more....good $$$ retirement eventually, wife's working there right now sloppin rapos and murderers..LOL Anyway good luck with strong mech background you should be good to go, I don't know though I had diesel mech. from the army, ( inmate), work for me once he sucked......token went away, fired him he was trouble, tried to start a fight; not bright; don't need that amongst the herd. I run the minimums inmates on the outside crews doing maintenance and grounds work and have to go inside to do big jobs; like asphalt , concrete, fencing etc etc etc and ditch them on a corporal. And with me if your not elbows and a holes...……..your wrong. lead by example, follow me.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540578

There it is. Yeah I have seen those videos too. Hopefully my diy clears it up for you. You don't need a lift, just some tools, which are all listed.

That's a good write up man very clear and the video makes it look like my 1 year old could do it and do it right. I'm gonna keep looking for parts as of now though. Did you do the diff bushings?

Originally Posted by christianchevell

I as I am sure most good tuners/mechanics would say....replace the lifters at that mileage...As tracking most likely has occurred a little too much, sure you can put dowels in to hold the lifters up and reuse the original trays with the lifters you have but you know its about the condition of what you have being 100% it has to go on a new cam and the biggest mistake from Driven racings website on their bulletins about the LS engine series is people expecting they do not have to do a break in on a ls engine as its a roller...well yes its roller with a butt load of spring pressure like its a race car.

And therefore down the road the engine goes ….but hey it goes even with guys who did twice the amount of preload then blamed the cam thousands of miles later...…. not like a hydraulic flat tappet which you break in right away or it fails miserably....right away....Just a thought. I know its like $500 more and a PITA for the gaskets and the bolts and the trays and the lifters...……. But hey.... just sayin...…. your lifters and cam could be fine, or the cam could be showing some tracking meaning the lifters have been leaving marks and maybe a pock mark or two on them you can never see....or …


And basically I live by usually better safe than sorry, used to be called Hardluck in the infantry...….. Good luck to you. And your idle should be around 950 compared to the 600 now so the underdrive of the alternator is not really going to matter......and a/c its not under driven by the fluidampr….. its just one belt or none.... A couple thoughts, going to do a Power master starter next starter heat stroke is my only problem, need to get more heat out of under the hood, damn stock starters heat soak too much. And a sock does nothing IMO kind of like the gain of a underdrive...… And if your using the Robert way DIY.... I would recommend getting book on building a LS engine..Robert went his way...and yes after the DIY back then when he limped it get a tune he was on here asking about the right measurement for the pushrod..which really should have been easy, but also about preload and that's where my golden zone stuff I have garnered over time comes from; average lifter preload apon tear downs from shops in that .045; .060 range. the more preload the more noise,( type writer), but hey it tells you its a happy camper or not as you get to know the typewriter...… and the stock engine cover deflects engine noise down , engine noise the headers multiply along with stronger springs.

I use driven racing ls30 for driving dump it at like 4-5k intervals. And your stock pump may be fine but usually its recommended to upgrade, I know I am happier with high volume the engine never even gets close to 30 or below for pressure what I always aimed for on sbc/bbc. And to replace the chain your going to have to drop the pan down. There were a few guys on here who did mod of cutting out the cross member of the front cradle then welding a couple flanges in and bolting it back in for those who want more frequent access ...as in Bo white did it, of course he's changed things a lot over time repeatedly and a good source for some knowledge if he is around if you have a question, there might be a DIY post on the cutting of the cross member I imagine a porta band or a cut of wheel with a spark shield and grinder would do it with a couple flanges made up and a welder..something shop could do super easy.

Me I am in facility maintenance at a penitentiary a good gig for a old mech and straight leg grunt, mostly carpentry but a lot more....good $$$ retirement eventually, wife's working there right now sloppin rapos and murderers..LOL Anyway good luck with strong mech background you should be good to go, I don't know though I had diesel mech. from the army, ( inmate), work for me once he sucked......token went away, fired him he was trouble, tried to start a fight; not bright; don't need that amongst the herd. I run the minimums inmates on the outside crews doing maintenance and grounds work and have to go inside to do big jobs; like asphalt , concrete, fencing etc etc etc and ditch them on a corporal. And with me if your not elbows and a holes...……..your wrong. lead by example, follow me.

I know it would be ideal to change lifters but I've been lucky before so im going to take my chances.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

That's a good write up man very clear and the video makes it look like my 1 year old could do it and do it right. I'm gonna keep looking for parts as of now though. Did you do the diff bushings?

Glad to hear it. No I didn't do the diff bushings. Budget ran out for additional parts. I definitely don't have any wheelhop. The rear just plants and hooks hard. Now I need more power. Its never enough!

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Glad to hear it. No I didn't do the diff bushings. Budget ran out for additional parts. I definitely don't have any wheelhop. The rear just plants and hooks hard. Now I need more power. Its never enough!

The power bug is never satisfied. What kinda numbers do you put down with the SS4

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

The power bug is never satisfied. What kinda numbers do you put don’t with the SS4

474 rwhp, as expected with an L99 with stock heads and intake manifold on 93 octane. It was 315 rwhp bone stock. So with my mods, dropped 2 full seconds off my 1/4 et. It still has a long way to go, though, this is just the beginning.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

474 rwhp, as expected with an L99 with stock heads and intake manifold on 93 octane. It was 315 rwhp bone stock. So with my mods, dropped 2 full seconds off my 1/4 et. It still has a long way to go, though, this is just the beginning.

That’s not bad at all what are your end goals for the car?

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by IWANTA(ss)

That’s not bad at all what are your end goals for the car?

To break into the 8s for the 1/4. So essentially a lot of weight reduction, want to go Whipple, and need a bulletproof drivetrain to hold up to that kind of power. I know exactly what I need, its just waiting on the $$$$$.

Thats an end state. Realistically for a short-mid term, squeeze as much out of it NA as possible, while strengthening it with supporting mods and reducing weight, basically prepping it for the FI.

[Pro Stock John]

I've been running the Powerbond (which I got used haha) for 5 years I think. Original battery.

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

I've been running the Powerbond (which I got used haha) for 5 years I think. Original battery.

Speak of the devil! Was just saying (Post#8) that you had success with the Powerbond, and thats one of the reasons I went that route. That and not being able to easily buy the Fluidampr.

[IWANTA(ss)]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

To break into the 8s for the 1/4. So essentially a lot of weight reduction, want to go Whipple, and need a bulletproof drivetrain to hold up to that kind of power. I know exactly what I need, its just waiting on the $$$$$.

Thats an end state. Realistically for a short-mid term, squeeze as much out of it NA as possible, while strengthening it with supporting mods and reducing weight, basically prepping it for the FI.

Thats going to be on badass car.

Originally Posted by Pro Stock John

I've been running the Powerbond (which I got used haha) for 5 years I think. Original battery.

I’m thinking if I can’t find a Fluidampr then I’m going Powerbond.