Thinking about buying this POS:lol:

[The_bald_eagle_machine]

The build is coming along nicely Aqua, If you decide to go with any sort of LS swap or add basically any amount of HP to the stock chassis... I highly recommend you get some weld on subframe connectors. Those unibodies are not the best stock. However, with the subframe connectors these cars handle, ride and feel completely different. It's really night and day. 500 hp... You will DEFINTIELY need them. They are also notorious for cracking at the "frame" where the 3 steering box bolts mount. Excited to see this car come around full circle!

[Joe.G]

I welded in South side machine SFC in my third gen and also added a GM Wonderbar to front frame rails along with a 3 PT Edelbrock struttower brace that really tighten the car up a lot.

[102SS]

Originally Posted by Joe.G

I welded in South side machine SFC in my third gen and also added a GM Wonderbar to front frame rails along with a 3 PT Edelbrock struttower brace that really tighten the car up a lot.

Those are some beefy bars I had them on my 88 GTA

I second this mod.

[tartagliazl1]

i had the complete BMR suspension mods on my old 83 z28. There sfc are very stout also.

[Joe.G]

Complete Hotchkis set up on mine, mine started life as an 305 Auto currently a 350 Manual.

[George-CZ]

Reading this makes me want to add another generation to the garage. The third one


I had the opportunity to drive a IROC Z28 305 manual and loved it.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Sub frame connectors are definitely on my list, as is the strut tower brace. I’ve got the factory installed wonder bar on it still.
George, you need a 3rd Gen!

I was able to get my parasitic draw sorted out. Got my meter working and pinned it down to the hatch motor circuit(stupid common problem as you guys are likely well aware) when I pulled the rear plastic interior trim off, the motor was pretty hot to the touch. I disassembled the motor/gear box assembly, turns out the factory grease was more like concrete than grease. A quick clean and re grease and it works as it should and no more dead batteries. I also completely flushed all the coolant out and refilled. The original coolant was still very green and no hint of rust at all. I got really lucky there. I’m at a little over 100 miles now of short trips and heat cycles but they have been completely trouble free. It was raining last night so I went to an empty parking lot to test out the Posi some. It has no problem sending you sideways from a dig, thru a corner, or power braking. I’m sure I’m on borrowed time with the auburn but I won’t complain.

[tartagliazl1]

You can alway swap in a 4th gen rear like i did. It’s a better 10 bolt, if that’s possible. It took all the hp i had with a 200 shot of nitrous.

[102SS]

Originally Posted by tartagliazl1

You can alway swap in a 4th gen rear like i did. It’s a better 10 bolt, if that’s possible. It took all the hp i had with a 200 shot of nitrous.

The Aussie 9 bolt rears with the 3:27 gears were the strongest for the 3rd gen

Not much stronger but a little stronger

https://www.drivetrainspecialists.co...t-borg-warner/

[Joe.G]

Yeah I Installed a 9 Bokt with 3.45 out of an 88 Iroc into mine than I Installed the PBR brake setup from and 89 on it. Had a lot of trouble finding the correct backing plates for the 9 Bokt with the bigger brakes since it was a one year only (89) option.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

I think if I ever have any major rear end problems I’ll put a Moser 12 bolt in it. That’s a really good one and done fix for that weak link. That way it’ll handle every bit of the power it’ll ever potentially see. With the stock 305 in it, I doubt I’ll have much issues for a good while. When the auburn decides to crap out I’ll figure out something to replace it with.

This car has factory 3:23’s in it so I do have a decent set of gears to start with. I bet those cars with the 2.xx gears are total dogs off the line with as low of Hp as we are talking here.

I wouldn’t be opposed to a 9 bolt borg but it seems the parts for those are more expensive and a little harder to come by.( I know, says the guy who’s talking about putting a $3K 12 bolt in his car right?) There’s at least one guy over on thirdgen running an LS3 with the 9 bolt for several years with no issues.

[ariZona28]

+1 on that Moser setup! You can even pry the wallet open a bit farther and get disc brakes.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

+1 on that Moser setup! You can even pry the wallet open a bit farther and get disc brakes.

Those are an absolute necessity. Especially since I’ve got them from the factory as it is!

I deep cleaned the inside out yesterday. It’s in spectacular shape all things considered. Theres A few water spots from the T-tops leaking a bit on the seats but I think I can get them taken care of. I’m putting seat covers back on it asap because the color of front the seat fabric is nearly perfect still. I’ll try and get a few pictures today. The rear seats were protected by the louvers I’m convinced as they are in good shape too.
I’m gonna look into getting the steering wheel re-rapped and the a dash pad for it.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Well I’m almost 1,000 miles in and absolutely no problems. This bad boy is still running great. I’ve narrowed what I thought was the t tops leaking to actually being the the rear hatch seal. Going to replace that soon. We’ve had a TON of wet weather over the last month and that’s the only major leak I’ve found after several drives in the rain. The only no operable issue I need to sort out is the cruise control. It doesn’t hold speed very well(does engage) and won’t accelerate when prompted too. I’m fairly certain it’s a vacuum leak. This car really is a blast to drive for no more horse power than it has. It gets a fair amount of attention even while wearing its 36 years of patina.