10-14-2020, 04:54 PM | #1 |
Drives: 12SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton, Tx. 77535
Posts: 728
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Rear Bearings
I was rotating my tires when I noticed that the driver side rear rotor was moving around when I was mounting the tire. I also noticed that the rear tires had uneven wear. I keep them at the right pressure. I’m guessing that it’s the rear bearings? I’m almost 60 and have never had to change bearings before. My dad helped me when I was a teen on my truck but that was a loooonnnngggg time ago. How hard is it to change them out? If I decide to take it somewhere, what would I be looking at price wise? Any advice would be helpful. My car is a 12 2SS auto with 52,000 miles.
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10-14-2020, 05:02 PM | #2 |
Evil Genius of Chevrolet
Drives: 2017 Z06, 2019 XTS, 2013 SS Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 3,260
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You should check your alignment in the rear first.
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10-14-2020, 05:22 PM | #3 |
376 cubic inches of fun
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Not sure what you mean by "moving around". The rotors have rotational play when the wheels are off.
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10-14-2020, 06:00 PM | #4 |
Drives: 12SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton, Tx. 77535
Posts: 728
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When I was mounting the rear wheel and I pushed on the left side of the tire the rear part of the rotor moved towards me When I pushed on the right side of the tire the front of the rotor moved towards me I didn’t even have the lug nuts on it yet. The passenger side didn’t move at all That’s what I meant by moving.
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10-15-2020, 11:29 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,142
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The rotors have a small screw that will hold them to the hubs during assembly. If the driver side was missing this screw or was loose you could get some movement until the lugs were tightened.
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10-15-2020, 12:12 PM | #6 |
Drives: 12SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton, Tx. 77535
Posts: 728
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First thing I checked. The whole assembly was moving. I ordered some new bearings because, it doesn’t look all that hard. I put new rotors on the front and it wasn’t that bad.
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10-15-2020, 12:12 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2015 Black rs/ss/1le Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: PA
Posts: 271
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With the wheel bolted on to spec and the wheel off of the ground, parking brake disengaged, grab the top of the tire with one hand, grab the bottom of the tire with the other (at 12 and 6). At the same time, push with one hand and pull with the other. Do this as hard as you can and do it rapidly . There should be no play. If you feel any play, you need new bearings.
I’m 100% sure this is the way you check the front wheel bearing I’m 90% sure this is how you check the rear bearings as well. |
10-15-2020, 12:53 PM | #8 | |
Drives: 12SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton, Tx. 77535
Posts: 728
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Quote:
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10-15-2020, 02:35 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 SS M6 ABM Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Nashville, IN
Posts: 268
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I changed my right rear wheel bearing a couple of years ago because it was making noise. Didn't have excessive paly though. The only hard part of the job was getting the axle nut off.
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10-15-2020, 04:35 PM | #10 |
Drives: 12SS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton, Tx. 77535
Posts: 728
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I have a half inch impact and I bought a 32mm socket so hopefully it will come off
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10-15-2020, 05:43 PM | #11 |
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Take a look at your knuckle bushings first. To make sure those aren’t giving you play that your feeling before you tear into your bearings.
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10-15-2020, 05:54 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,884
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Get a big hammer and be ready to use heat. One of my rear bearings was stuck so bad I had to have a shop take it out. Fronts basically fell out compared to that lol
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
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