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Old 12-22-2010, 06:31 AM   #29
Driveshaftshop
 
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CV shaft


We have released the aluminum shaft for purchase, here is a link to the listing and the text from it.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...ece-driveshaft


Available now for the 2010+ Camaro is our 3-1/2 aluminum shaft with CV . We have done extensive testing with stock rears and with our 9" kit and believe this to the the most cost effective trouble free drive shaft for the Camaro available today. The shaft will come with our signature billet plates for each end so you done have to go in to the rear taking a chance on upsetting the crush collar (see below for billet plate VS changing to a Pinion yoke below) The shaft only weighs 17lbs and come with special 12.9 uber strength hardware with back up lock nuts to ensure no loose bolts, we have been using this Billet aluminum style plate for over 10 years on
thousands of 1000+Hp Supras-BMW's and many more with out any bolt issues.

(You will have to remove the heat shield from above center hanger mount to install a 3-1/2" shaft )

Last edited by Driveshaftshop; 12-22-2010 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:40 AM   #30
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my camaro is pretty stock u r seeing my jeep mods lol.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:47 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A To Z Marine View Post
McMaster and car has better bolts but the rear flange should be changed and the driveshaft have 2 u joints to fix this problem ive broken 1 set bent 1 set and twisted 1 shaft.
Any part #s for McMaster bolts? IPS mentioned McMaster bolts before, but nobody could find what was used, so gave up trying.
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:19 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by BMR Sales View Post
This is the exact reason we are working on doing a rear driveshaft loop for the Camaros.
Sold as soon as produced - I can think of several people that will be doing the same. Any ETA?
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Old 01-21-2011, 01:02 AM   #33
sixty9fordkiller
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i was driving one day july last year. I was playing around with another car and once i resumed back to normal driving, i felt a drivetrain vibration. Took it to the dealer the next morning and he said that my tires were bald and as a result, went out of rouund. So i forked out $430 to buy 2 brand new pirellis from a buddy of mine that works at a tire station. Identical model and size as the factory 20s. Slapped them on, still had the vibration. Took it to the dealer again and then they told me that they couldnt find anything wrong with it. Told me to drive it like that and to come back if it got worse. I told him I would not take the car until the vibration was fixed. So i left it there and 3 hours later, the service manager calls me. Said the driveshaft had bolts missing. They ordered a complete new set, and the car has been good as new ever since. Reading all your stories here, im glad I refused to take my car out of that dealer till it was fixed
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:51 PM   #34
gotpball44
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part # on stock bolts?
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:55 AM   #35
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Prop to coupler:
Bolt-92228335 (x6)
Washer-92228334 (x6)
Nut-92228333 (x6)

Coupler to diff yoke:
Bolt-92139104 (x3)

Coupler to trans yoke:
Bolt-92138569 (x3)
Nut-90538867 (x3)

Last edited by Robert91RS; 01-25-2011 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:26 PM   #36
Jdevy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert91RS View Post
Prop to coupler:
Bolt-92228335 (x6)
Washer-92228334 (x6)
Nut-92228333 (x6)

Coupler to diff yoke:
Bolt-92139104 (x3)

Coupler to trans yoke:
Bolt-92138569 (x3)
Nut-90538867 (x3)

And all these bolts are TTY?
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:54 PM   #37
Luckymex_dallas
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idid it myelf n replaced wih stroner bolts i hunted down. it happened to me twice as well...\
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:48 PM   #38
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Same problem, same parts taken out. But my flowmasters survived due to me shutting down quick. Fixed, dealer offering to get me a rear tunnel brace.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:00 PM   #39
Luckymex_dallas
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bent my borla. and pulled a tab that put two pin holes i my exhaust.
damage the heat shield the shield is attached to the gas tank by a glue. its a ****ed up design im pissed it did this and i payed 39K for my car....i love my car but DAMN.

theres one thing ill finally admit ford does a better job. design. production. and engineering. its fun becuase Gm has kept this on a hush all of a sudden everyone is comin out saying the same problem...one of the MAJOR probles is that the rear yoke has thre bolts but they get loose too easy.


ONE THING ID LIKE TO ADD.. WHEN EVER LEAVE ON A CONTROLLED LAUNCH WITH JUST T/C OF..ITS FINE.WHEN I TRIED TO DUMP WITH COMPETETIVE MODE ON IT WHEN IT BROKE IT..
IF YOU DONT WNT TO BREAK ANYTHING DONT DUMP YOUR CLUTCH HARD, EVEN ON STOCK TIRES. UPGRADE FIRST OR AFTER EVERY TRACK VISIT CHECK YOUR BOLTS. I RECCOMEND CHANGING TO A STRONGER BOLT PERIOD. AND USING LOCTITE. LOTS OF IT
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:03 PM   #40
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That's exactley why a put a Driveshaft Shop one piece in Pumpkin. No regrets and piece of mind to know that it's all good now.

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Old 05-08-2011, 02:09 PM   #41
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Glad to see you got it back!
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Old 06-16-2011, 08:14 AM   #42
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Broke a driveshaft bolt yesterday. None of the local GM dealers stock these fasteners. You have to believe they are reusing the bolts in service.

I will order some replacements to install myself and see if they will hold up better.

-Mark.
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