BMR Drag Pack, Xtreme anti-roll bar, and 15 inch racestars. How to setup?

[eLeSthree]

I've got everything installed and I'm ready to time the bushings, set ride height, and fix the anti roll bar.

But to be honest, I dont know where to begin. I have the car (wheels on) up on blocks. I've taken a good guess on the alignment bolts (used the old marks for reference). In which order do I proceed?

Set the ride height first, or try to get the lca's as level as possible and let the ride height fall where it may?

When attaching the anti roll bar end links to the lower control arms, does it need to be preloaded? Leave it loose? Which hole should I use?

Then I also need to figure out where to start with the compression and rebound settings on the Strange adj coilovers. Feeling a little overwhelmed.

Pics coming.

[eLeSthree]

Stuffing a 325/50/15 in there isnt easy, but i think they’re in.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

When attaching the anti roll bar end links to the lower control arms, does it need to be preloaded? Leave it loose? Which hole should I use?

Then I also need to figure out where to start with the compression and rebound settings on the Strange adj coilovers.

On our Car;
Antiroll Bar 2/3 holes
Shock Settings 5/9 Rebound - 4/9 Compression

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

On our Car;
Antiroll Bar 2/3 holes
Shock Settings 5/9 Rebound - 4/9 Compression

Thanks for the reference point. I decided to start out with the bar in the middle hole, 4/9 rebound and 3/9 compression. I also dropped tire pressure to 17psi cold, and since I’m trying to get things under control and work my way up, i installed a larger pulley. That dropped boost by 2psi. Even at 16#s this thing is just rowdy.

From 40mph i get some spinning (maybe cold tires) and then a good hook. Ill work on it some more when the weather dries up. I did get a little floaty hooptie feeling going through a bumpy intersection, so maybe ill tighten it up one more click. A local guy has the same setup, but drag only, and runs them at pretty much max.

The 325s fit.

[eLeSthree]

Is anyone else running this same setup? I'm having a few issues.

The balancing weights on the wheels hit the calipers and came off. Which is strange because I bought the wheels and brakes from the same guy and he ran them together.

The trailing arms are contacting the wheels when I make a left turn at an intersection for example. Basically turning either direction and causing the rear coilovers to compress will create contact between the trailing arm and wheel. It is not the E Brake cable. I have a noticeable grind on the trailing arm where the red powder coating has been removed.

I also have alot of clicking and banging going on back there.

I jacked the car up and raised the coilover spring plate about 3/8''. I also increased the compression and rebound to 8 and 7.

I'm hoping the higher ride height and stiffer suspension will allow less travel.

I purchased the SPC camber and toe bolts and would like to take it in for alignment, but it would be a waste of time and money if my ride height changes, or I have clearance issue that need to be addressed.

[eLeSthree]

Raising the car by 3/8" has fixed the rubbing issue. But I'm still not able to hook up even rolling into 3rd gear. I definitely have a suspension issue. I guess its time to find a chassis shop.

[1fast]

This is hard one every setup is differant. Alignment is super critical on these cars stock vs drag setup. My drag setup alignment i still drive on street. Need to weight car see your front and rear weight. Other things to try to have some video or if you can tell. Say rear tires hook then lose traction - increase rebound slowing the rate at which front end rises prevent shock from topping out. Does car still have front sway bar if so unhook it for test or just remove. What front shocks do you run if factory, look into Lakewood front strut run a 70/30 . i know jumping around alot just trying give info. Then to your anti roll should be set no preload to begin with.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by 1fast

This is hard one every setup is differant. Alignment is super critical on these cars stock vs drag setup. My drag setup alignment i still drive on street. Need to weight car see your front and rear weight. Other things to try to have some video or if you can tell. Say rear tires hook then lose traction - increase rebound slowing the rate at which front end rises prevent shock from topping out. Does car still have front sway bar if so unhook it for test or just remove. What front shocks do you run if factory, look into Lakewood front strut run a 70/30 . i know jumping around alot just trying give info. Then to your anti roll should be set no preload to begin with.

Thanks for the info. I'll remove the front swaybar, and look into the lakewood front shocks or possibly an adjustable coilover.

When I installed the anti sway bar, I left it disconnected until the ride height was set, then I rotated the bar so the forks were parallel with the ground, then spun the rod ends to adjust the length, then put the bolt through the lower control arms and tightened. But come to think if it, I have adjusted the ride height and moved the bar to the middle setting since then. I may have to check if there is preload now.

About the weight, im sure the front is heavier, especially with the iron block and SC. I've also removed the interior, which probably took more weight off the back, than it did the front. Come to think of it, the car seems to act better with a full tank of gas. I need to get some weight off the nose.

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

On our Car;
Antiroll Bar 2/3 holes
Shock Settings 5/9 Rebound - 4/9 Compression

Is this car Automatic?

[Chris49066SS]

Did you take out the AC and the washer bottle? Thats almost a good 60-65 lbs right there. And what front brakes do you run? The Aerospace brakes are light!

[eLeSthree]

Originally Posted by Chris49066SS

Did you take out the AC and the washer bottle? Thats almost a good 60-65 lbs right there

The washer bottle is gone, but I haven't let go of the AC yet. In Florida its not optional for a street driven car. Which this is quickly unbecoming...

[Chris49066SS]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

The washer bottle is gone, but I haven't let go of the AC yet. In Florida its not optional for a street driven car. Which this is quickly unbecoming...

What front brakes? Aerospace makes some light ones

[1fast]

Originally Posted by eLeSthree

The washer bottle is gone, but I haven't let go of the AC yet. In Florida its not optional for a street driven car. Which this is quickly unbecoming...

No need to remove ac or heat im still running mine. Dont give up your problly closer than you think on getting it to hook. But knowing your front and rear weight help us figure out setup

[JMI]

I run Viking coil overs all around with BMR drag setup.Sent the weight of the car at all 4 corners to Viking and I'm running a higher spring rate up front because of the extra weight VS stock.Big difference in weight transfer and drives nice.Vikings has alot of adjustability,road course,street,comfort,drag race. I dead hook on the street with 20" drag radials. Still have the front sway bar hooked.
BUT I have a boost controller to control the power down low.and mine is a automatic.I do sometimes loose just a little bit of traction in high gear at 120mph when my converter locks up.20" can only do so much.
No issues with the 17",and I'm thinking of going with 15".

Either way, I think it will be VERY hard to apply ALL the power that you have on a normal street surface.I would think a Bias rear tire would be better for you because you have a manual.