Some suspension repairs incoming... Advice?

[terry_b]

Simple question up front: if I'm replacing most of the rear suspension components because of wear (control arms, knuckles, and toe/trailing arms, as well as shocks), should I also go ahead and replace the subframe bushings? I have the "better" 1LE stock bushings plus Pedders inserts currently installed. Think these are worn enough to replace?

Last summer I got hit by a clueless driver leaving a parking lot. I *almost* avoided it, but he ended up tapping the driver's side rear. His front bumper hit the edge of my wheel and the rear bumper. Bumper cover mostly buffed out, no other permanent damage besides a slightly bent trailing arm bolt. I got it aligned, replaced the rear camber/toe bolts - but then we found out a bunch of the spherical bushings were shot. Trailing arm and rear knuckles both had bad bushings.

So, on top of that, I'm at the point where everything is feeling loose and unsettled. Clearly, 98k miles in, my rubber bushings are also all pretty worn. I put Pedders coilovers in probably 50k miles ago, and the right front strut is leaking oil. The springs are also corroded and losing paint (thanks New England winter). So in my garage I currently have the full set of rear control/trailing/toe arms (OEM) and a set of Xa Coilovers to be delivered later this week. I have new rear knuckles, since those spherical bushings are bad and 4 new hub bearings (hopefully these are the correct ones, they look like the right SKF bearings, but they are from eBay).

I also ordered a set of BMR motor mounts, but I don't think mine are bad.they aren't leaking oil at least. I do have an odd vibration that I'm hoping will be solved by the time I get all these parts in. Vibration is really noticable around 75-80 and I can feel it in the steering wheel and with very light brake pressure it gets worse, then mostly disappears on hard braking. According to my mechanic, tie rods seem fine. Outers were replaced a couple years ago, never touched the inners though.

I also plan on checking out the driveshaft coupling, but I understand that is a near impossible to find part - actually, anything OEM is showing "unavailable", out of stock, or "discontinued".

I know it's fairly slow here these days, but I would appreciate any advice you can give, especially if you read through my whole here 😂.

I'm "stuck" with this car for a while, since my wife rolled a bunch of negative equity into hers.... but I won't complain!

[CamaroDreams76]

You seem to have a good idea of what needs to be done. Z/28 bushings would be a good upgrade. I don't know if they can be found though. Driveshaft, don't worry about it. I'm at 78k my car has had 460wtq for the majority of its life now has over 800whp.

I'd upgrade the rear suspension, new trailing arms and toe links. Might as well. Not expensive.

Replace it all at that 100k mark.

[trashbasket]

Originally Posted by terry_b

should I also go ahead and replace the subframe bushings?

Yes. All the things you are replacing bolt to the rear cradle which is wobbling around on the car with those rubber bushings even with inserts. I would go solids to maximize returns from your other parts. I didn't notice any NVH from going to solids. Diff bushings on the other hand....


Here is a vid to put that subframe movement into perspective and this is with upgraded poly bushings. There is a video of the stock one, but I can't find it.

[terry_b]

Well I got everything replaced: rear control arms - both upper and lower OEM, toe links - spherical bushings but not OEM, OEM trailing arms and a full new set of Pedders Xa coilovers.

I have BMR motor mounts and diff bushings, along with a new OEM trans mount - but after 10 hours I'll wait on those. I had to cut the LCA camber adjustment bolt on both sides because it had rusted to the bushing insert and would not move. Luckily I already had new camber bolts ready, but was a real pain.

Already feels much much better, gotta get it aligned Tuesday and then let it all settle in. I really should have gotten solid subframe bushings (not that I would have had the time today) because the little hat on my larger set is rusted out. That probably a squishy mount now.

Anyone happen to have those little hats/washers handy as a takeoff?

[terry_b]

Every spherical bushing was shot, and everything is rusted like crazy underneath. Thanks new england!

[terry_b]

[trashbasket]

Good lord, yea it looked rough. Good work, looks much better and I'm sure it feels the same. If those diff bushings are anything other than stock ones I would NOT replace them unless you are launching hard or in danger of breaking axles. You will have no way of knowing if you have a "quiet diff" until you do them and probability is that you do not. Unless you REALLY need poly or god forbid solids there, stay stock on diff bushings. Unless you just like race car noises.

[terry_b]

Thanks for the heads up on the diff bushings. Honestly I haven't done them yet because of the effort involved, but I have read a few horror stories about nvh after doing them. Mine are definitely looking a little worn, but by no means are they dead yet, so I'll probably stick with them until I HAVE to change them.

Car is night and day. Either Pedders changed something or I may have had a touch too much preload in the original install, because I consistently came up with about 5mm difference when setting the coilovers height. The car definitely sits a little higher, and I expect some sag as the springs settle in, but it feels great now and will only improve after the alignment.